hello here is mine  fm316

I love the purple!!  What chain protector do you have on you chainstay. With how curve they are I wasn’t sure which one would fit.

I finally got my FM326 built. I would consider this my dream build. I have always wanted to build a bike up with components I selected. Total weight 18.8 lbs (8.5kg) with tubeless but without pedals. Here is a list of the components:

Frame: Mondince FM326, XL(58), Chameleon green.
Groupset: Sram Force AXS XPLR 13sp
Wheelset: Elitewheels Aero+ Gravel
Tires: Maxxis Rambler 45mm (47.5mm on wheels and inflated)
Saddle: Ryet Aircode
Integrated Handlebar and Stem: Lexon Unox 80mm x 440mm
Bar tape: Fizik Terra Soulcrush tacky. black.

The ordering process through Mondince was painless and Jack patiently answered all my questions and even suggested a few paint colors. The frame was  well build. There was a bit of carbon epoxy in the bottom bracket shell threads. I took a brass brush and small o-ring pick to it and it came right off and bottom bracket threaded in smoothly. The bb shell faces were flat and free of paint. The disk brake caliper mounts on the frame and fork where clean as well. For some reason I could not get the brake rotors centered in between the brake pads. I tried the usual methods, squeeze the brake levers while I tightened the caliper bolts and I even placed a shim in between the pad and rotors while squeezing and tightening the bolts. Both front and back rotors are still rubbing a brake pad on one side. I hope this does not mean I need to reface the caliper mounts.  The paint came out great, better than I expected. The chameleon green turned out awesome. I received the frame in twelve days. They already had the frame built. I believe I may have a first batch frame since it has the mounts on the seat stays. I didn’t realize they were in there. In hindsight I would have asked them for a frame without them.  All in all I not hesitate to buy from them again or suggest them to someone else.

Since this has the same geometry of the Mondraker  Arid, and look similar, I kept with the same crank length, bar width and stem length as that bike in my size. I’m glad I did since the bike rides and fits me well.

I was able to do a short ride through my neighborhood, which included some gravel, before a rain storm hit. Here are some quick impressions.

The bike handled well. It was stable and I could tell the geometry leaned a little towards MTB geometry but not some much it was slow. I was able flick it around on tight sidewalks and bike paths, exciting I know.

The SRAM Force group-set is my first step into SRAM territory and wireless shifting. I have ridden mechanical shifting for the past 36 years, don’t bother with the math Im just old, and I have had zero problems with that type of shifting. I won’t lie it will take a bit to get use to the wireless shifting. SRAM Force shifted quickly and accurately. The brake levers had the right amount of force and I was able to lock up the back wheel with two fingers from the hood while bedding in the brake pads

As many have said, the Elitewheel Aero+ freehub is loud, but i like the way it sounds. While I was riding and the storm was rolling in, there was a slight cross wind and I could feel it catch the 45mm deep rims. It will be interesting when I encounter a direct cross wind from the side.  It is windy throughout the year where I live in Utah. These are the first carbon wheel I have had and I am interested to how they track and feel in the gravel.

The Lexon Unox bar/stem are very light and comfortable. The flare seems to be the right amount but agin this is my first gravel bike so I still need more ride time to tell. I do like the short reach and drops of these bars and this is after riding a road bike for the past 13 years. I had to 3D print a c-ring to get the bearing top cover to the right height to eliminate the 2mm+ gap but in the end it worked out well. Shout out to a forum member for sharing the file, you know who you are! I still need to dial in the lever height before I wrap the bars. Since the Lexon Unox has a -6 degree rise the hoods sat lower than I liked, so I will be raising them slightly.

I have far too little time on the Ryet Aircode saddle to give a far review but it didn’t seem uncomfortable. Having said this I did notice a bit of stiffness around the edges of the cutout. Take that with a grain of salt since I didn’t have padded bibs on this test ride.

I’m excited to get this bike on a long ride this weekend. I will give a more in depth report once I have more ride time. Have a good night and keep the rubber side down

I had exactly the same problem on my FM336 with a Deda stem, and I'm still trying to solve it.

What brand is your stem?

I've seen online that some people have experienced the same issue with FSA stems (the fully integrated cable-routing models).

At the moment, I'm going to try modifying a Kocevlo compression ring, or otherwise I'll just switch to another stem—the same one that other FM336 owners are using successfully.

It is a Lenox Unox integrated bar and stem. I ended up 3D printing a c-ring of the correct height and alignment pin/hole as the bar/stem.

My Lexon Unox bars arrived for my Mondince FM326 build. I’m happy with both and excited to get this build completed. However, when dry fitting fork, headset and bars I am left with a 2.3mm gap between the head tub and top bearing cover. I have tired every combination of part that came with the frame and bar.

- Bars came with two different compression rings, a plastic and an aluminum.
- Frame came with thee headset bearings each a different height, 7mm, 7.5mm and 8mm. 

No matter the combination of c-ring and bearing the top bearing cap is still either too high (gap ranging from 2.3mm or 3.3mm depending bearing heights) or too low (top bearing cap rubbing frame and not engaging c-ring)

With everything I know here are my options that I am aware of:

- Use the combination of 7mm bearing and plastic c-ring (as shown in the above photo), cut the steerer tube accounting for the usual things including headset compression and hope the 2.3mm gap reduces to an acceptable width. I watched a video last night that said to take an extra 2mm of the steerer tub for headset compression so I m being hopeful in this option but still not confident it will get me were I want to be.

- Design and 3D print a c-ring (ABS not PLA) with the appropriate thickness.  Easy enough as I have the skills and 3D printer to do so. Not to sure the c-ring will hold up overtime being in compression but is it any worse of an option using the nylon injected molded c-ring it came with?

- Keep researching and see if I can find the proper solution from the Mondince FM326/316 owners on this sub or any others that have have gone through this and have emerged victorious with a safe and proper solution.

Any one gone through this process with this same frame and bar combination or similar situation? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

I just received my new Mondince FM326 and starting to build it. I have a question on the headset. In the attached picture is the lower bearing supposed to sit this high off the crown? Is there something that needs to be placed below the bearing like a crown race? Also for the life on me I cannot figure out were the part in the other two pictures goes. At first I thought it was the crown race but it made the lower bearing ride even higher off of the crown. If placed on the top end of the headset assembly it blocks the hoses coming up through the headset and through the holes in the provided top bearing cap/cover.