I'm after 5 rides, and that includes one race. I have no issues with the headset, I did all based on the manual, so as follows, expander 10 Nm, screws and cap bolt 4 Nm. Usually it's around 5 Nm, sometimes it's 6 Nm. I have never seen more than 6 Nm for the carbon handlebar. I checked the values on my two torque wrenches. I attached the screen and my photo of the bike. I used 4 cm of spacers so 8 spacers. Are you sure that you assembled the spacers correctly, and the handlebar is properly connected/inserted. There are some holes and pins. The metal spacer/washer should go on the cable port grommet, it's not in the manual. Lastly, maybe the fork was not cut properly ? There is no space of too much space? Could you provide some photo of the bike and the space between the fork/spacers ?

Pretty sure the space is enough. I have 5 mm as shown in the first picture meaning 1 mm of space left when removing thickness of the expander (1 mm) and top plate (3 mm). I can put a small item <1 mm inbetween when it's mounted. Another sign there is enough space, I bent the top plate due to overtorquing, so the limit is not the screw, not the expander but the top plate is warping. What I do not understand is that I do not get the bearings to bind when torquing to the max. The pressure against the inner race of the bearing should make it bind at some point but it doesn't meaning that I have no preload. This is drving me nuts. To be sure it's not the fork length, I added a 3 mm carbon spacer (equal to cutting the fork 3 mm) and it is the same. As shown in the last 2 pictures I have 4 mm of space left (8 mm-1mm expander-3mm top plate). Then I also tried to change the metal spacers position, first I had one in position 1 and one in position 2. I put both in position 2, thinking maybe the lower spacer was rubbing against the frame (even though the direction was completely free and without noise) but it didn't change anything.

I didn't know about the torque spec, I didn't receive the manual. When I asked them, they gave me much higher values 8 Nm for the stem (it is written on it but I couldn't figure out whether it was 3 or 8 Nm) and 12 Nm for the expander. Torque spec of the top cap is not really relevant because the torque needed to remove the play is different for every bike. The best torque is as low as possible with no play. The value of 4 Nm they gave is maybe an average value, but certainly not the max torque the screw can withstand.
So at the beginning, I screwed the top cap (probably lower than 4 Nm) enough to have no play in static with the front brake test. After a ride, I had play. I progressively screwed the top cap higher and higher until 8 Nm (max torque I found for this type of screw), it was better but the play came again after a few rides. I tested then 12 Nm (I'm pretty sure the screw can withstand 20 Nm before rupture), again much better. But still not perfect. The play is less and it has taken more time to comeback but I still have a slight play. My guess is that the plastic spacers (I use 6) are creeping with load, they reduce slightly in thickness and thus preload of the headset dissapears. Now I'm thinking of repeating the procedure I mentioned in my second post. Maybe the creeping will reduce over time if the plastic becomes harder. I'll look if the play takes more time to come back. If I don't resolve the issue I'm thinking to modify the spacers : remove material in the middle to put hard carbon spacers and use the original plastic spacers as a "cap" for aero and aesthetics.

I'll be interested to have your feedback on headseat adjustment with 8 plastic spacers.

The frame looks interesting and aesthetically pleasing too, but as far as I'm concerned, there's one detail that would really put me off... the brand name Avenger.

Question: has anyone who rides an Avenger frame ever been teased by their riding buddies because of the name (Avenger > superhero)? 

Yep.  I always say first that I find the brandname shit so they don't tell it. Avenger makes it sound like something toyish/not serious/fragile.
I actually hesitated to buy it because of the name. That's dumb if you have all the characterics/numbers/figures of the frame and it fits all the conditions you want but that's how buyer's psychology works. They really have to improve on marketing. I wouldn't buy a frame with an (according to me) ugly paint or ugly tube form though, even if it's the fastest bike on earth.

Hello,
I would like some thoughts about an issue with my headset. I am unable to have zero play in the headset. I have to screw the headset to its maximal torque to remove as much play as possible but I still have some minor play. The screw is a M6 titanium countersunk head which I found a max torque of 8 Nm for. So with the stem loose, I screw the headset screw to 8 Nm and then I screw the stem to 8 Nm (2x M5 titanium), that seems a lot but it is what the manufacturer gives. When I firmly push the front brake, I can still feel some play in the headset, I checked that it doesn't come front the front rotor which is torqued to spec.
- There is still 1,5 mm of space between the top of the expander of the lower end of the top plate.
- I checked that the screw is not topping in the thread. When I remove the plate, I can insert the screw way more down.
- At 8 Nm the bearings are absolutely free, which is coherent with the fact that there is still play.

At this point, the only thing I would try is putting a 1 mm spacer between last spacer and the stem if I messed up the measurement but I can clearly measure space between top plate and expander.
Do you have any ideas ?

Frame received a few weeks ago. Built with Dura Ace and Campagnolo Bora Ultra 60 wheelset for a total weight of 7,12 kg. The bike is insanely fast (coming from a 2009 Cube and a 2014 sub-6 kg Focus Izalco Max 0.0). Stack is indeed very low, I almost wanted to ask for more spacers but ended up with just the standard 6x5mm spacers. It's an aero bike after all and that would have been not really nice aesthetically. I actually feel very good on the bike now, quite comfortable. I had some issues with some screws and engaging the thread in the nuts (used a tap to clean the threads). Another issue is that I have to apply a lot of torque on the headset to remove any play (there is enough space between expander and top plate and bearings are not compressed at all). I'm guessing it's because there is a lot of friction between the fork and stem. Headset fine tuning was not easy, but maybe I'm just bad. Really happy with the frame regardless.