carbonda is actually working on a new frame, downtube storage is promised. But this superior has nothing to do with carbonda. It’s just that modern frames have finally begun to approach carbonda geometry, which is why they may be visually similar to it

XC or Trail? Some more info?

I was talking about extra flange on the driver, it's visible on the video I've linked above, 14:47.
BUT haven't noticed that this hub hides driver deeper inside body, not sure now how sealing works there.
I think I'll go with M350, simple j-bend model after all...

Except driver body, 310, 370 and 180 I think use driver with flat surface. To get "proper" driver you need to buy driver from 240.

Thx!
Looks like this is yuan M14 hub. Here ale links, please take a look:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001960343687.html
https://www.yuananbike.com/product/yar-m14-mtb-hub-ratchet-system-center-lock-boost-axle-hub
Goldix is very similar but uses bit different driver body:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003474664645.html
Not sure it it's the same supplier or not for goldix 310, but 310 has driver without labyrinth sealing flange that makes it prone to dirt.

Is Goldix M180 new hub? It's about 40g heavier for a set than M240, but comes with 52T ratchet in contrary to M240 that comes with 36T. And looks like there are some parts for 180 series available too.

@Aliexpress Test Pilot what goldix hubs do you own?

Here're images of Kenda Booster 2.6 tire on i36 rim. I don't own 29 wheels yet, pictures show 27.5 wheel installed using 19mm 3d printed offset adapter to mimic 29. As you can see 4mm allen key fits well, so it's about 4-4.5mm of clearance. Kenda Booster is about 64.5 on knobs, but it has quite round profile, more square/knobby tire won't fit for sure.

I planned to use size M for my daughter when she grows up to about 147cm, but decided that I order second frame, size S for her. She will use S up to 157 and M above 157 or so. I'm 175 and I've got L, but I use 35mm stem and 16 deg sqlab bar that moves hands about 3cm closer to the saddle. With "normal" bar I would have to buy M. S has 445 reach, but with 77.6 saddle angle you will be a lot closer to the bars then on old-school 74 deg STa frame.
I've ridden this frame this season and it's very nice, very capable bike. HTa is bit steeper then on enduro bikes, but this makes steering easier as the "flop" is lower.
If I were you I'd go with M+35mm+sqlab16 to get longest bike possible, but if you prefer 9deg bars then S+35mm stem should be fine.

I wouldn't buy 120mm 909 as it rises BB too much.

Blur TR has HTa 67.1 and STa 75.1, so it doesn't come any close to 909. You will be about 2cm farther to the back. Climbing with steeper STa is so much easier actually.

I'm 5'5" (165cm) tall.  Anyone my height or shorter riding this frame in size Small?  What length stem you using? Honestly, I'm not about sizing as it has 15mm longer reach than my Enduro bike!  And longer reach than most XC or DC bikes I've seen or tried.  I understand the steep STA helps and the ETT is fine.  But does this bike feel balanced when cornering and do you feel you need to stretch out to properly weight the wheels?

I am consider this frame in 120mm or the Santa Cruz Blur TR (much shorter reach, but slacker STA).

My M is 2000 and L 2050, both with axle.