By the way, has anybody here who built the bike on this frame (YFM061) and could share some photos? Basicaly I wonder how the cables routing in downtube is solved in real world.

Quote from: jonathanf2 on March 08, 2026, 10:47:12 AM
This one is my favorite. I especially like that it comes in 34cm width, though it comes in wider sizes if you prefer. 

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806404062021.html

Now I'm testing it. What I found to have good braking in drops the shifters have to be very low (mover forward) so I can reach the levers (GRX 820). Therefore the handlebar has to be rised towards me. Next season I will look for something else, I think.
But whatsoever the drop at 80mm is fantastic.

I usually buy at their website, not from aliexpress. For my location it is even cheaper and more finish options, for example satin finish.

Quote from: chapeu131 on January 08, 2026, 07:55:59 AM
May I know the total costs?

Parts for my wheelset:
Carbonbeam 265g 30mm + Goldix M160SL MS + Alpine Hyperlite 298mm + Sapim double square lock 16mm
was about $720 with shipping + my build $0

Lately I build the set for MTB marathons based on Carbonbeam rims (~265g 30mm internal), Goldix M160SL hubs and ALPINE HL 300mm spokes. It is 1090g, so for my 72-74kg is enough. I was racing them the last season and they looks petty straight.

I see that the argument of not being able to mount a second water bottle is often given against the 936, but it is possible to DIY the holder. For me 936 (my is M size in attachment) is the best looking frame, and I wouldn't changed it for 909.

It looks like it is made to work with rigid fork. There is no room for the fork's crown when it is turned. Also the length of the fork suggests this (490mm).

Hi, I'm looking for an idea of chainguard that would work with this frame. Is the only option left a bottom bracket shell adapter like the ISCG? The swingarm main pivot mount would be great, but the bolt/axle should be custom made... Has anyone else dealt with this before?

Yes, it is very helpful. Thanks a lot!
I think I wouldn't even feel 3-4mm offset. Maybe most of us is riding with not centered cranks...

Great info, thanks. Would you measure the difference between left "q-factor" and right one? It can be the distance from frame to crankarm. I wonder what is the offset from central bike axis. If not much, I'll go for it.

Hi, I have a question for the owners of this cranks: is it possible to mount it in BSA 73mm frame, or in general in the MTB frame? I found at Ali.. the comment that it is possible with some trick, but without any farther explanation. Any ideas? Is the spindle longer than road standard?

Buy it while it's light. The more frames will break, the heavier it will become in the future.

It seems the same as SPcycle SP-30:
https://www.sp-cycle.com/Spcycle-2023-New-29er-Carbon-MTB-Frame-148x12mm-Boost-UDH-Hanger-15171921inch-Mountain-Bike-Carbon-Frame-p4914436.html
I still hasitate to buy it for 29er gravel / light marathon bike. Front chainring 36t would be enough for me.

I'm sorry about that. Especialy that it is not common place to break. I was about to buy epic clone from SPcycling , but changed my mind in the end 

Quote from: JonesD on August 22, 2024, 03:31:55 AM
That would be interesting to know, a frame with cables through the headset is a no go for me

For me too, and I suppose for many. The cable routing itself is not a problem for me, but I race, so I want the cockpit as low as possible with a fork of 120mm travel. A completely internal routing is the opposite of that idea. Besides, I am a fan of mechanical gear changes and sharp cable turns will not work here