I took a look at some photos and geo between the torpado matador and the hongfu fm 258. They do look to be the same. Thanks for the info.

If you wonder how the M7007 is as an xc race bike. Jofre Cullell Estape just finished second at the Vallnord World Cup race in U23. Sure the bike he rode is a Megamo Track, but I am convinced it is a rebranded M7007 frame. I don't have reliable information regarding this, but the frames are identical (geometry, and physical structure). I was told that the M7007 is OEM'ed in Europe. Also, this frame cannot be sold in certain European countries indicating some sort of agreement between a reseller and Pro-mance.

I am now a fan that is rooting for Jofre. After all we ride on the same frame (albeit I suffer from high heart rate and low power, he is the converse).

Photo from Vallnord and on top step of podium HC race at Haiming.

Hi sissypants, thanks for your posts that contain so much great information. It is a great time to build your own bike with the exact components you want. Adding links to unbranded (at least in the US) components that you used, weighed and reviewed is extremely valuable.  I followed your model in my build blog.

Information about frames/components is sometimes obfuscated by external forces. Things like advertising income, manufacture's marketing... impact the information that is distributed. Shimano does not want you to use non Shimano chainrings, cranks, chains... with their derailleur/cassettes/shifters so they say that you cannot do it or if you do, will suffer performance penalties. They even designed the master link to not work with existing SRAM compatible chainrings (why else would you design a chain to have one link that is narrower than all other links on a chain? BTW M9100 chain works well with SRAM link on SRAM wide/narrow chainring).

Information gathered on these types of forums should be taken with a grain of salt. There may be external forces or simple lack of expertise that may cause inaccurate information to be distributed. It is great when there are people like you who add information that is accurate and well thought out. Keep up the great work!

Just an update on my build. The Shimano M9100 Quick Link master link is .00025 too narrow for the Eagle XX1 wide/narrow chainring. The combination worked fine, but will wear the sides of the wide chainring teeth prematurely. Fortunately, the SRAM Eagle Power Lock 12 speed link works fine with the M9100 chain. This link has enough clearance. You may run into this problem with other brands of wide/narrow chainrings. 

continued due to file size limitation on posts.

Here are some shots of the tire clearance. Took some shots with tire on to give some reference. Tire is Continental RaceKing Racesport 29x2.2.

I just thought about how lame I am regarding the shock mounting. I can mount it upside down. I can flip the bike upside down when I need to modify the air pressure. Thanks for pinging me on this subject.

This is cut from my blog regarding the build that has some information about the shock mounting:

Forks are Fox Factory 32 Step Cast 100mm.  I personally don't use remote lock-outs (set my bikes up firm and don't stand while climbing) so the fork/shock are manual. Fork weight 1380 grams with uncut steerer and Fox Kabolt front axle. Unlike the Spark, the shock is not trunion mount. Since I am using a manual shock,  it can be mounted upside down or right side up. If using a remote shock, the cable port is by the bottom bracket so you would mount the shock upside down. Mounting upside down would yield less unsprung weight (and it looks good). However, mounting it upside down causes the oil in the air chamber to come out of the air valve when changing the shock's air pressure. Decided to remount upright to prevent this and keep some oil in the air chamber.

I got a chance to take it out for a few rides on varied terrain that included climbing and descending a 2412' fire road, high and low speed single track, and mild to very steep climbs. This is my early ride report.

I want to give some background on me as a rider. I used to road race motorcycles (and still ride motocross). There is so much chatter about riding techniques and bike setup that it makes you dizzy. I definitely weigh an opinion higher if the rider finished in front of me. With that said, I am not a bicycle racer.  I ride often and consider myself a very good descender. I am a motivated rider but suffer with a high heart rate and low power...

The bike is efficient with no sign of pedal bob. Handles and climbs well. On the trails I rode, I did not have any problems with the low 12.6"  bottom bracket height (same as Spark). I usually ride a 22lb FS 26" (geometry similar to a 2012 Scott Spark) bike and was apprehensive about the agility of this bike due to it's larger wheel size. I did have to compensate a little to get the bike to turn by putting a  little more weight on the front and using more handlebar pressure (than on the 26). I am surprised that the maneuverability difference between the bikes is so small. This has probably been said a billion times, but the 29 wheels roll better and keep momentum better. It seems that you don't lose as much speed (and need less effort) on the upward slope of undulating terrain than on the 26. It is a fast bike.

The bike has a SRAM XX1 Eagle crank/chainring, Shimano M9100 chain, M9100 SGS (long cage) derailleur and M9100 shifter. This combination works great and shifts flawlessly.  You can up shift up to three gears at a time. Down shifting is one gear at a time. I used a 30T front 10/51T cassette. The low gear 30/51 combination on the 29 is roughly the same as 22/34 on the 26. The M9100 chain uses a master link that requires a master link tool for installation and removal. Gone are the days of tool-less master links.

I like to set my bike up firm/light rebound so the suspension does not sack down on high speed bumps.  The shock is Fox Factory Float set up with 6mm of sag and run in the mid compression setting. The fork is Fox 32 Factory Step Cast set up with 9mm of sag and 10 clicks rebound. The fork settings are still a work in progress.  The medium compression lever setting is very stiff for small to medium bumps, but good for drop offs. Open mode with almost no compression 18 clicks (22 none, 0 stiffest) is good for small/medium bumps  but compresses too much for drop offs. I say this with great conviction after going over a drop off , compressing the fork too much, and endoing it. Next time I am going to try Open mode with higher compression settings.

I really like this bike for cross country riding. It is light, efficient, and turns well.  There is nothing negative that stands out to me. After all, this frame is OEM'ed by a few companies that have hopefully done more testing than myself. Also the frame was raced at and made the podium at the U23 World Cup level.  Now that is something  I would pay attention to.

Thanks for the link to the light tube. Looks interesting. Will do some research into the durability of them.

Still early in the development cycle for this bike. I rode mt. tam (2572') today (fire trail up, then down). Did not ride anything too steep, but did not have any bob. In any case, shock adjustment can alter this behavior. Reducing sag, volume spacers, and compression damping all effect this.  I set the rear up very firm  (6mm sag on shock).  based on Fox's recommended settings.

I have not converted to tubeless because I can run the tire pressures I want without pinch flats. I am not sure that converting to tubeless would save weight. I run a conti race king racesport tires. They are light, have very thin sidewalls and are not recommended for tubeless. There is a 75g difference between the racesport and protection (tubeless ready) model. The tube I use is 126g. The weight difference before sealant would be  126 -75 - 7(weight of tubeless valve stem)= 44g. I think you would use more than 44g of sealant. However, if you could get the racesport tire to seal, then you would save some weight.

I built a Pro-mance M7007II 29, 100mm xc full suspendsion. Thanks to the member sissypants for motivating me by his build and posts. Used xx1 cranks, M9100 series drive train, fox suspension, Light bicycle rims, DT240s, and other misc unbranded  parts. The bike with pedals and water bottle cage came in at 9000g (19.84). Build details including parts/weights, links to vendors, frame analysis, some costs, and weight reduction information are detailed here: https://dcriffraff.wordpress.com/

The Pro-mance M7007 II frame has similar geometry to a 2018 Scott Spark RC 900 World Cup bike. It*can be ordered in a standard or light weight version. The M7007-II (boost) frame ordered was size 17.5", light weight (T700/T800),* UD(unidirectional as opposed to weave), matte finish, and 165/38 shock (can choose this or 190/45). This frame supports up to 2.3 tires and built for the BB92 bottom bracket.

I was told that this frame is being OEM'ed in Europe (found online at least two OEM's with the exact look and geometry) and raced at the World Cup level. I am not saying that this is a Pro-mance frame, but take a look at Megamo and the U23 World Cup rider Jofre Cullell bikes.

The frame was purchased directly from Pro-mance (btw, I am not a fan of the company's name, think Bro).* They were very responsive to questions and the way they conduct business was exemplary.* The frame was not in stock and made upon order. I got a email that the frame was completed 15 days after ordering. It was delivered to my door 14 days after that. Total time from order to receipt was 29 days. * Link to vendor: Hot ! XC suspension frame (M7007-II, 36T) Definitely two thumbs up to Steven Lan at Pro-mance.