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29+ & 27+ / Re: P8 Geometry change? Now known as P1
« on: May 28, 2019, 02:32:59 PM »
Here's a few pictures of it.
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Is it 40mm or 44mm stroke for the 190mm shock? The website is inconsistent. Ask them. Keep in mind that there has been cases of new chiner frames having bottom out issues, where the cross member between the seat stay contacts the seat tube before the shock bottoms out. As we haven't yet seen any of these frames with 190mm shocks yet, I'd be checking the measurement between top and bottom shock mounts when the cross member touches the seatstay (i.e. the eye to eye at max bottom out) before buying everything.
I don't think running 120 front with 100 rear is an issue, but there might be a warranty issue if you have a problem with the frame and admit you used a longer fork. Do they specify 100mm fork?
I am actually on the market for a mid travel trail bike. I already have a 130mm pike. I haven't found a frame that quite ticks all the boxes, so I am seriously considering getting another of these frames, putting the longer fork on, another MacLeod, wider rims and heavier tyres and a dropper post. Haven't decided yet though - slightly more rear travel would be more ideal for intended trail riding.
I see that you have a cheap second hand shock in mind. If that doesn't work out,I highly recommend a manitou MacLeod on that frame. I have one on pretty much the same frame (a fm058, which only differs in rear brake location), and I am impressed with the MacLeod.
I forgot to ask if there is any incentive to choose the frame model with 190x44 vs 165x38? In terms of performance / futureproofing etc. It seems to me that the majority is using 165x38.
I am not sure. I notice that the drawings indicate a different lower shock mount for the 190mm shock compatible frame. Unless that frame has a different rocker/link (than the frame for the 165mm shock), it will have more travel, as the 190mm shock has a longer stroke. I also notice that promance quotes travel at 110mm instead of the usual 100mm - maybe the 110 is the travel for the 190 frame?
Maybe ask the vendor about it? I vaguely recall that someone did ask about the 190mm frame, and the vendor said that it wasn't available.
The only real downside of the 190 frame is probably the availability of shocks in that size. The 165 is very common. Given that you plan to run a longer fork, you should probably ask about the 190 frame.
I see that you have a cheap second hand shock in mind. If that doesn't work out,I highly recommend a manitou MacLeod on that frame. I have one on pretty much the same frame (a fm058, which only differs in rear brake location), and I am impressed with the MacLeod.
...I have no previous background in building my own bikes, so this will a first...No worries. Most of us started like this, it is a learning process
Boost put the cassette 3mm outward, moving the chainline from ~49 to ~52mm.
So you need to choose a chainring that offer a 3mm offset version for a direct mount.
On a spider crank, you may need some shims or not to get a 52mm chainline.
For a stem, I reckon you can't go past a kalloy uno. Cheap, very light, seems stiff enough for me. I got the 7, but they also do others, such as a 6 - different alloy, dunno what the practical difference is. Plenty of sellers on eBay.
I see that you have a cheap second hand shock in mind. If that doesn't work out,I highly recommend a manitou MacLeod on that frame. I have one on pretty much the same frame (a fm058, which only differs in rear brake location), and I am impressed with the MacLeod.
Given the high main pivot on this frame, make sure you run at least a 32t chainring on that bike. 34t is probably even more optimal. There have been some with this frame running a 30t chainring, and some get weird suspension movement, which sounds like extreme anti-squat. The bigger the chainring, the more active the suspension will be under power (go too far, and you'll get more Bob though, needing a remote lockout).
Before you build, make sure you get some capgo noise protection, to slip on the rear brake hose and derailleur cables, at least over the span within the downtube. I regretted not doing it at the start, and it cost me a lot of time mucking around with it (to get rid of annoying cable rattle).