Really symbolic of the corners cut when making these things. Explains why the bearings are significantly more worse off on one side of the bike vs the other, and why the finish on the bolts that attaches the upper eyelet in the rear triangle to the shock extenson is very worn on one side while its pristine on the other side.

All my name brand frames except Pivot do the same thing.

Very nice, uberamd. Thank you for writing all that. Can you share how you chose the type of epoxy?

There should be a hole here for cable routing, blue circle.

Update on the crack... Carbonda did not recognize this as their fault, told me it is most likely impact damage. I am a bit dissapointed by their response, and primarily because this bike didn't see any "impacts"...period. That part is the part where the "flex-stay" is flexing. So it, to me, all points out to the quality issue. I noticed that the carbon is really really thin there. After I chipped the paint, carbon just fell apart. I am really not sure what to do here. I like the bike, but this experience does not bring me confidence in carbonda's warranty and replacement, nor the quality control. I would accept a discount at least, just as their sign of good faith and customer care. But they were resolute that this was a "crash" damage. LOL... I'm a bit mad tbh.

Yep, you got screwed by chinese cheese "carbon". Sorry man.

510mm axle to crown is a 100mm fork.
There is no such thing as a 190x35mm shock.

Check press fit bb shells with calipers and make sure its in spec. Check headset cups for structural integrity.

The gouge marks on the freehub happen when only one pawl locks into the teeth and there is an off center force on the axle. The axle flexes and pushes the freehub into the ratchet teeth. This will kill the bearing and crack the axle. One way to check this on a new hub is to rotate it slowly and listen for the teeth engaging. They should all engage at the same time. If they are too far apart, this will happen.