For those of you who have replaced the bearings in this frame, how did you get them out? My friend who has a bearing extractor tried to help me do that yesterday and we gave up after going at it hard on the lower pivot linkage. I didn't want to stress the carbon further (it's a tool that uses percussive force to pop it out) and figured I should just leave well enough alone and it's good enough for a recreational rider like me even though the bearings feel rough already after riding it for only a month.

Because of a creaking noise that wouldn't go away after re-doing the bottom bracket and seat post (One Up service) we also took apart the upper linkage that attaches to the shock. We only found bushings there whereas I was expecting to find bearings. Was I mistaken about there being bearings in there? Previous advice from this thread indicated that there would be bearings. There was one juncture of the upper linkage we didn't disassemble so maybe that's where the actual bearings mentioned are located.

Can anyone provide a source for replacement hardware for the frame pivot points? I've been riding my build of this frame for a couple of weeks now and I can't find where it's squawking, the noise is driving me nuts. I've read that you might need to check and/or replace the hardware on these Chinese frames for safety so that's what I intend to do and hopefully, it'll eliminate the creaking sounds. The shock mounting bolts already show signs of rust so I should probably replace those as well for peace of mind. Also, how can I determine the torque settings to use? I'm not confident about any info I might get from Airwolf, but I guess that's part of this adventure.

I recently bought a wheelset for a new bike I built. The wheels have DT240 hubs but I'm very suspicious they're knock-offs. Here's what I ordered: https://www.ebay.com/itm/225762245586. If they weren't so loud these would be perfect, and I have no complaints overall.

The loud, buzzing noise while coasting is unbearable. It seems that quietening them by adding grease is tedious and doesn't work that well anyway. I want a hub that's just quiet and doesn't require more than normal/routine service.

It might be cheaper to order a new wheel than trying to rebuild my wheel with a different hub. Can anyone make a recommendation? I have another cheap carbon wheelset that used DT350 hubs, and I think these are probably legit (from BTLOS). Maybe those are the sweet spot for me in terms of getting a reasonably quiet hub which is low/easy maintenance. Who sells a good/legit DT350 wheel I can use as a replacement? Should I just cut to the chase and go back to BTLOS after learning my lesson?

Thanks in advance for your advice or suggestions.

I cut my chain too short, then when a friend was helping me install the derailleur we couldn't get the B-screw adjustment right, and instead of realizing that the chain was too short causing the problem we assumed it was still too long and cut out another couple of links. Yes, we're amateurs.

How can I avoid doing that again? I followed a Park Tool video on how to size the chain, but maybe this frame needs a little different approach to find the right chain length. I have the large size of this frame and I'm using a 30T chainring with a 10-51 cassette (Shimano XT 12-speed drivetrain) -- how many links do I need to remove from a fresh 126-link chain?

Another chain-related question -- when the chain is on the largest cog the chain line looks to be at its limit, too far really. I might need to use a spacer between my hub and my cassette to bring it out. Did anyone else need to do this to get a reasonably straight chain line toward the larger cogs (inner cogs) of the cassette? I'm using a new DT Swiss 240S hub with Shimano XT cassette.

BTW the derailleur hanger shipped with my frame was wonky and needed to be bent quite a bit. So if you're like me and can't get your derailleur to work as expected then try checking that. Am I likely to get a better result right out of the box with an official SRAM UDH (vs the Airwolf part), or is this maybe because the frame is not square at the dropout and I'll need to do this again if I ever get a new derailleur hanger?

A second opinion from another bike shop mechanic has me less worried about the frame's quality. I'm keeping it and forging ahead.

I have the cables internally routed now which was a bitch. It required taking the linkage bolt out at the bottom for more clearance. I added a drop of Loctite to the bolt when I put it back on but there are no torque-setting indicators so I just went really tight by hand. If anyone knows the right torque for this bolt then please advise. How would someone work that out, or does it matter too much as long as it's reasonably tight?

Airwolf advised me that the shock mounting hardware they'd send would work for my shock, but it doesn't -- you need a 8x20 and 8x14 kits from Rockshox. I anticipated this, which is why I asked so I could get ahead of it, but to no avail. Had I known this, or at least the correct dimensions, I could have saved myself some waiting around by pre-ordering the parts. On that note here's something that may save someone else some time -- if you're using a Rockshox Select+ 190x4*, which is a typical shock to pair with this frame, then you'll need these two Rockshox mounting hardware kits:

8x14 part# 11.4118.091.800
8x20 part# 11.4118.091.806

Where I live most shops don't stock any mounting kits so everyone has to order, and since they all use the same distributor it's mostly a waiting game if one is on backorder, as is the 8x14 kit now. Luckily I found one on eBay, fingers crossed it'll be here next week.

Yes, you're right. According to the product page, they all go into the same hole. I should have checked that before posting here. Seems like they'll be too bunched up, but I guess it works fine. Let's see how it goes!

I will build one of these soon. The frame is on order from Airwolf. I will use the parts listed below.

Fox 130mm Performance Elite FIT4 fork
RockShox Select+ 190x45 rear shock
OneUp V2 dropper post 150mm
Full XT groupset (cranks, derailleur, shifter, chain, bottom bracket, cassette, brakes, pedals)
Airwolf carbon wheels w/DT240 36T

The budget has come to less than $3000, which is not cheap but seems like peanuts for a full-carbon XT build, especially if this frame really is close to an Epic Evo. Buying (like new) used parts from friends and buying from eBay/Aliexpress helped, especially around Black Friday.

If anyone has comments from your experiences doing this then please advise. I have only done this once before (Tantan FM078), sort of seat-of-the-pants with limited tools, etc. Last time I was really challenged with mounting the rear shock (bushings were hard to find) and routing the internal hoses/cables.