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The complete geometry table.
Did you try?
I've got Schwalbe Thunder Burts in that measure 52mm and there's room to spare.
Coming from a 696 and wanting some more clearance and descending confidence. A little sad that it seems this frame can't do a RaceKing 2.2".Did you try?
I replaced the fender bold at the chainstay/BB junction with a flat head bolt to make it a little easier to get the wheel on and off.
My wheel rim has an internal width of 22mm. However, the tire tread rubs against the rear chainstay of the frame. To resolve this, I applied a layer of transparent TPU protective film to the frame. The front fork does not need to worry about the same problem
I also have 50c Rambler tires, but I haven't installed them on the CFR707 yet. When I previously mounted the Rambler tires on the same wheelset, their actual width measured 47mm, slightly narrower than the current Rac King's 49mm. Additionally, the tread was less pronounced and easier to manage. Therefore, I don't think you need to worry about the width issue.
I ran full housing for the rear derailleur past the bottom bracket and out the chainstay. For the front derailleur, I ran the housing to the stopper in that little rectangular plastic piece under the bottom bracket and then just the inner to the derailleur. I used a bit of the plastic guide that came with the frame to line the last little bit of the cable and hopefully keep dirt off.
Shifting has been good after getting it dialed in. The tension in the front derailleur cable holds that plastic part in, so I couldn't pull it out for the picture without having to loosen the cable at the derailleur.
I'm glad I opened it up for the picture. It looks like once of the inserts for the cover bolts is corroding so I will have to grease it really good.
. I decided to run full cable housing to the front mech tough as it was stated to do this in the Shimano GRX manual. This way the cable is also protected from dirt that will come off the tire at this location.
I ran full housing for the rear derailleur past the bottom bracket and out the chainstay. For the front derailleur, I ran the housing to the stopper in that little rectangular plastic piece under the bottom bracket and then just the inner to the derailleur. I used a bit of the plastic guide that came with the frame to line the last little bit of the cable and hopefully keep dirt off.
Shifting has been good after getting it dialed in. The tension in the front derailleur cable holds that plastic part in, so I couldn't pull it out for the picture without having to loosen the cable at the derailleur.
I'm glad I opened it up for the picture. It looks like once of the inserts for the cover bolts is corroding so I will have to grease it really good.
External routing - the cable housing for derailleur shifting only go up to the cable stopper on the down tube.
Does the 707 have proper eyelets for full lenght mudguards? I'm contemplating between a 696 or 707 frameset for a commuter that I will use in rain and snowy winter conditions.
Hello, I believe that the cable housing should always pass through the frame, regardless of whether it is a fully internal or semi-internal routing frame. I hope this helps you.
