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I replaced the fender bold at the chainstay/BB junction with a flat head bolt to make it a little easier to get the wheel on and off.
My wheel rim has an internal width of 22mm. However, the tire tread rubs against the rear chainstay of the frame. To resolve this, I applied a layer of transparent TPU protective film to the frame. The front fork does not need to worry about the same problem
I also have 50c Rambler tires, but I haven't installed them on the CFR707 yet. When I previously mounted the Rambler tires on the same wheelset, their actual width measured 47mm, slightly narrower than the current Rac King's 49mm. Additionally, the tread was less pronounced and easier to manage. Therefore, I don't think you need to worry about the width issue.
I ran full housing for the rear derailleur past the bottom bracket and out the chainstay. For the front derailleur, I ran the housing to the stopper in that little rectangular plastic piece under the bottom bracket and then just the inner to the derailleur. I used a bit of the plastic guide that came with the frame to line the last little bit of the cable and hopefully keep dirt off.
Shifting has been good after getting it dialed in. The tension in the front derailleur cable holds that plastic part in, so I couldn't pull it out for the picture without having to loosen the cable at the derailleur.
I'm glad I opened it up for the picture. It looks like once of the inserts for the cover bolts is corroding so I will have to grease it really good.
. I decided to run full cable housing to the front mech tough as it was stated to do this in the Shimano GRX manual. This way the cable is also protected from dirt that will come off the tire at this location.
I ran full housing for the rear derailleur past the bottom bracket and out the chainstay. For the front derailleur, I ran the housing to the stopper in that little rectangular plastic piece under the bottom bracket and then just the inner to the derailleur. I used a bit of the plastic guide that came with the frame to line the last little bit of the cable and hopefully keep dirt off.
Shifting has been good after getting it dialed in. The tension in the front derailleur cable holds that plastic part in, so I couldn't pull it out for the picture without having to loosen the cable at the derailleur.
I'm glad I opened it up for the picture. It looks like once of the inserts for the cover bolts is corroding so I will have to grease it really good.
External routing - the cable housing for derailleur shifting only go up to the cable stopper on the down tube.
Does the 707 have proper eyelets for full lenght mudguards? I'm contemplating between a 696 or 707 frameset for a commuter that I will use in rain and snowy winter conditions.
Hello, I believe that the cable housing should always pass through the frame, regardless of whether it is a fully internal or semi-internal routing frame. I hope this helps you.
The CFR707 can use an integrated handlebar and stem with internal routing or a conventional separate bar and stem. I set mine up with a standard handlebar and stem, so mounting accessories is no problem. I went with external routing to make the build and cockpit changes easier.
For sizing, it's worth comparing the CFR707 with your bikes in geometrygeeks, or by making your own spreadsheet. I used the stack, reach, and stem measurements from my road bike to determine which size CFR707 frame to buy. The XL frame has roughly the same stack as my road bike but a longer reach. I compensated with a shorter stem to get the bars where I want them. I could have made a L work, but sizing up moves the front wheel farther ahead. This makes the bike more stable and prevents toe overlap, even with 700x50mm tires. I'm 190 cm.
Not sure if sarcasm? I'm asking here in hopes of getting community feedback from people that have hands on experience with the frame. I also find it easier avoiding the language barrier and time difference for more technical questions. This will be my third frame from Carbonda and have had zero issues with them.
