Hi, I lost a frame link bolt (seat stay to chain stay) while riding and now I can't ride my bike. I was wondering if somebody knows which screws and bearings i could order which match with the FM10 frame. Does anybody know what bearings and screws are in here? I have already contacted TanTan Cycling, but I am afraid that it is going to take for ever until I get the spare parts. So, I thought it might be easier to find alternative screws which I can order in my country.

Thanks for your help!

Good news here: TanTan Cycling will send me some spare parts!

Hi all,

I just had the problem that the screws on the frames got loose very easily. I had to glue them with red loctite now. I was lucky I wasn't alone on the trail, otherwise I could walk home for a couple of miles. I lost one screw while going up the hill, so I was able to find the screw after a couple of minutes an put it back in. So, for those who buy one of these frames and intend to use it off road seriously, use loctite before you even start to assemble the rest to this frame.
I am also not so happy with the internal cable routing ports, these rubbers don't do the job, they fall out, and then the cable start to chatter with every little vibration. This needs definitely some improvments!
Besides that, everything alright so far....

@GuitsBoy: Yeah, that's why disassembled the entire frame and used loctite screwlock and the correct torque to assemble it. I should be safe now....

I have a temporary fix for my clearance issues while I wait for the new parts to arrive, though I'm not going to publicly post what it is.  But anyway, I got another ride in on the new frame last night.  This was a 13 mile ride, the first half is just grueling relentless climbs, and the second half is fast, weaving trees, and some tech.  the climbs were a bit challenging, and as the miles went on, I developed some ghost shifting.  Towards the end of the first half's climbs, I noticed some tire rub and finally stopped to check things out.  The pivot at the rear axle drive side had completely come loose.  The bolts were just floating, completely disconnected.  The seat stay and chain stay were completely separated.  I cant believe I didnt lose the bolt.  Anyway, go over and loctite all your pivot bolts.  Its not enough just to snug them up.  Put fresh loctite in there just to be sure.

After fixing the pivot issue, the bike was climbing and shifting much much better, and still felt supple on the downhills.  Ripping through the trees really felt amazing.  It felt like I had a TON more traction than my previous FS27 frame.  Really leaning the bike over and pushing into turns the bike didn't ever feel like it wanted to break loose.  Pedaling on flat and mild uphills I didnt notice any appreciable bob with the shock set to pedal platform level #2 of 4.  I was very happy with how it handles fast moving singletrack.  Uphills were a bit tougher, but I really need to go back and revisit those climbs now that the pivot and shifting are fixed.  I also have a few more pedal strikes compared  to my last frame, but always on compression events.  I may need a touch more air in the chamber to ride a little higher.  My sag was closer to 35% which is a bit much for me, though It felt great on the downhills.

All in all, it was a good ride, and I finally felt quite happy with the frame.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

I actually ordered the frame, but they canceled my order right away, as I chose online bank transfer as payment method. But unfortunately I figured this out after the amount was already discount from my bank account only..... The money came back automatically though. But I lost more than a week, so I have to place the order again....and then choose another payment option. They also didn't mention that they can't ship to my country, so I have to pay an extra fee to ship with DHL to Switzerland...
So, all a bit weird.

I was thinking to replace all the pivot bearings right away, then as you suggest, loctite the screws (red or blue loctite? Blue should be strong enough?). I don't believe they use proper bearings, and good quality bearings used in the machining industry are not so expensive, so I think it's worth to do it right away when assembling the bike.

Would you mind sharing the bearing sizes? I hope these are some standard bearings? I would like to order them in the meantime, so that I got then already when the frame finally arrives here...

Thank you very much!

Quote from: chinerrider on June 15, 2020, 04:01:12 PM

Hi everybody, I am having a question here regarding the fork length. I didn't see TanTan indicating the correct theoretical fork length. At least I didn't find it. When they say that the frame travel is 150mm, I assume I can't use a fork with 160mm which has a bit a too long overall length? I guess it would destroy the geometrie and the way how it feels and how the bike behaves while ridding, isn't?
Maybe you guys who bought this frame already may help me? What is the fork length of the fork you chose? Do you think it would work with a fox 36 grip 2 29wheel 160mm Fork?
I would really like to buy this frame but I am a bit insecure with these figures, also with the shock length, after I read the previous posts... 

Thank you very much!

I just took a guesstimate that a common fork would be the Fox 34 29er 150mm travel.  That fork has an axle-to-crown measurement of 557.  I stretched my 27.5+ Manitou Mattoc out to 150mm travel which gave me 559mm axle-to-crown which is pretty close to the fox.    Your Fox 36 has the same axle to crown as the similarly sized F34, so at 160mm travel you have 567mm axle to crown.  IMO thats not too bad, and within reasonable proximity to  the intended fork size.  Between the two, I'd always rather go slightly overforked than under forked.  Certainly the 160 shouldn't slacken out the head tube angle to the point of it being dangerous.  If it were me, I'd run that fork without hesitation.

Thanks for the response. I am most probably going for this idea!