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Messages - gbrnole

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1
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LEXON Road Carbon Crankset
« on: July 02, 2024, 08:12:29 AM »
Quote from: Taicho_Cyclist on March 27, 2024, 12:46:23 PM


Just received the LEXON R1 hi-mod carbon cranks today and they are really beautiful. Did a quick unbox clip just to show the item and weight, plus the accompanying Xcadey Powermeter which will be mated with the carbon cranks.

https://youtu .be/0CK8M6rj7Nw


Seeing is really believing as the weight is amazingly light at 331/332 grams for cranks with spindle. Adding the alloy spider gave 372 grams. After replacing the crank spider with the powermeter, the overall weight without chainring bolts is 435 grams. Still amazingly light before installation on my TIME ADH23.

Cheers.

Hi, is the Lexon branding on the crank arms removable? (i.e. is it a sticker or something that would have to be sanded off if someone wanted plain black crank arms). Thanks!

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056
« on: October 17, 2022, 12:38:46 PM »
Quote from: maturin on September 18, 2022, 03:56:27 AM
Someone on youtube mentioned that Carbonda might have redesigned the 1056 to accept slightly wider tyres (38 mm instead of 32).
If true, this would really move the bike even further into the all-road terrain, even if it does not turn it into a gravel bike proper.

Has anyone confirmed this? The specs on the website have not changed (yet?)


keep in mind that he's running schwalbe G-One 38 width tires so they probably measure 36 wide at best real world unless he's running some very wide internal rim width. i don't think i've seen a wide schwalbe gravel tire (>35) come close to its stated width yet, they all tend to be 2-4mm under the stated width.

fortunately we have some pics in this thread of real world 35mm and 38mm width (regardless of what the tire says on its sidewall) to get an idea of how tight the clearances are.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Pulled the trigger on the Elite Wheel DRIVE wheelset
« on: September 09, 2022, 12:46:02 PM »
Quote from: Geko on September 08, 2022, 05:47:46 AM
Hello Guys,
Can anyone show me how it looks 28mm tyres on 50D wheels especially en face (vittoria) Most pics at google are with 25mm
I have big dillema what to choose. G45 or D50
Did anyone test G45 and compare how it look stiffnes and comfort these set G45 vs D50?

not that this entirely helps but i run vittoria corsa control in both 25mm and 28mm on the same 18.5mm internal rim with (they are 65 deep but that is immaterial). the 25mm tires inflate to 27.5mm wide. the 28's are much closer to spec and inflate to ~28.6mm wide. long story short, the 28's are not obviously wider in my experience than the 25's which is also probably why their weights are so similar.

internal width on the D50 is 21mm and the G45 is 24mm. both of those will cause the tires to inflate wider than my rims are capable of but visually, if you have seen vittoria 25mm tires on D50 for example, they shouldn't look much different if those were 28mm.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Onirii One
« on: September 01, 2022, 11:26:21 AM »
not keen on the head tube cable / hose entry point but solid geometry styled after specialized geo by the looks of it. be interested to see if 30c is max tire or just recommended and what could be squeezed in there?

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: August 22, 2022, 01:58:15 PM »
Quote from: gilj on August 22, 2022, 06:20:32 AM
I seem to be getting nowhere with Chris. Did anyone have their forks being bent 2cm inwards? I don't think this carbon fork is to be trusted anymore, right? The TA is a standard 130mm TA, and it's fully threaded in on one side. So the fork is just too narrow.

did you measure the inside face to face of the fork? it seems more like the through axle is mismarked for OLD of 130 rather than overall length of 130mm?

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: July 25, 2022, 05:56:06 PM »
Quote from: patliean1 on July 22, 2022, 11:19:13 AM
Having owned the previous Allez Sprint in rim brake, I'm not exactly expecting an identical ride feeling. And while I like my 177, at the end of the day I live in a flat city where being aero is king. Both in optimizing your position on the bike and your frame/wheel setup. On my weekly club rides we are regularly hitting speeds on the flats around 35mph/56kph. Yikes

I had an original allez sprint rim brake also. it was a cracking bike. I ultimately sold it when i got a chance to buy a madone slr for a price i couldn't pass up. the madone is much more comfortable, there's no doubt about that, but i'd much rather take the allez sprint into an actual sprint. it has some serious get up and go.

i'm intrigued to see what you think about the 168 after having the knowledge of the allez sprint too.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: July 20, 2022, 12:39:02 PM »
i think the best course of action is to look into the custom 3D printed headset covers that some of the folks with new allez sprint frames have been using? it appears to be a simple 1.5" opening on the head tube since others have used the FSA kit in the thread. see below for a weight weenies posting on it.

https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=133529&start=2040

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056
« on: July 17, 2022, 12:21:18 PM »
Quote from: noodleshop on June 19, 2022, 09:29:41 AM
just curious, is anyone running this as a gravel bike? The 1056 appeals to me as a frame that could double up as a road or gravel bike (perhaps with 2 sets of wheels), and I was wondering if I'm correct in this assessment.

like everything else with gravel it really depends on what gravel regularly is where you ride and what is your road / gravel mix? if you ride mostly hard pack, bit of washboard, some ruts etc. (basically the strada bianchi) you will be just fine. i can happily ride this even on a madone with 28's. i don't necessarily recommend (on a madone!) it but it's doable. 32c or better yet maxing out to 35c would be ideal if riding the 1056.

single track, roots, mud, lots of loose rock etc. is a whole other story.


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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: July 17, 2022, 10:36:00 AM »
nicely done @pigdog ! what size tires did you squeeze in there? they look like 32c?

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29er / Re: LCFS911 full suspension
« on: May 30, 2021, 12:34:29 AM »
A bit blasphemous to put the logo on but i pondered it and ultimately decided i don't care! lol

the bike is fantastic. front fork is a fox 32 stepcast performance elite. rear shock is a fox re:aktiv from a trek top fuel. both were new take off parts. i think my only gripe with the bike is the cable routing for the rear shock lockout - i ended up using a flexible noodle like you use for cantilever brakes to mitigate the ridiculously tight angle from the access hole to the inlet of the shock. still not entirely happy with that solution but it works perfectly (for now...)

the wheels are LC carbon rims with graphene built on dt swiss 350 hubs. LC's one piece bar/stem combo and a sram eagle GX build kit with an XX1 chain. final weight as shown is 23 lbs on the nose. definitely some room for weight saving in there with tire and crank choice but i'm content at that weight.


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29er / Re: LCFS911 full suspension
« on: April 27, 2021, 09:04:37 AM »
Quote from: d3xophen on April 27, 2021, 08:17:17 AM
can somebody tell me what is the actual weight for size M (without seat binder, axle and rear shock plastic dummy?)

mine in size M is 1902g without the derailleur hanger or the rear through axle. basically right on what LC quote on their web page.

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29er / Re: LCFS911 full suspension
« on: April 26, 2021, 06:50:28 PM »
thanks for the quick response!

i was able to disassemble the rear triangle. as you noted the upper links and upper through bolt were fairly easy to remove once i got the system figured out. the lower through bolt i could only remove by inserting a long 8mm allen key into it (from the threaded side) and lightly tapping it out with a rubber mallet. the lower bearing on the non-drive side is a bit notchy which i'm not thrilled about. it is well packed with grease. the seals say enduro but i have my doubts on that!

i absolutely love the british racing green project that dangerholm did so i am considering either copying that or doing a candy version and using the base metallic silver for lettering and logos. my fork and one piece handlebar/stem will also be painted to match.


13
29er / Re: LCFS911 full suspension
« on: April 26, 2021, 04:47:51 PM »
Quote from: Jeroen on April 16, 2021, 02:29:31 AM
I thought I'd share my experience with disassembling the lcfs911 as I found it a bit uncommon or at least different then expected.
Background:  disassembling for paint, the frame ist still new.

The rear triangle joints obviously mention 10nm and I was wondering why I couldn't open the upper joints. It turned out, that the screw is on the inside of the triangle. The outside is the bushing which (in my case) is solidly fixed with the frame.
The trick i used is to losen the big axle of the rear triangle to get some space, then open the middle joint on one side to get some further room and only then open the upper joints from the inside.
For me, this is uncommon at the least but perhaps someone can use the experience in order to keep the bushing on the outside in one piece (mine now show clear traces of opening attempts).

This led me to (positive) see that the bearings are high quality ones from enduro and (negative) that the main axle of the rear drive uses tiny spacers between arm and bearing where I question the durability.

thanks for the tips! i just received my frame and like you i am taking it apart for painting. i have the most recent revision with the hidden bushings on the upper rear linkage. i have a couple of questions if you don't mind?

1. the two main (upper and lower) through bolts did those come out easily on your frame? or did they take some effort to slide out? (the male nut is easy enough to remove but the female bolt not so much)
2. does your rear suspension move completely freely when the plastic filler piece (installed for shipping) is removed? or is it somewhat mechanical in its motion?

i have an ibis mojo that when the rear shock is removed the rear triangle moves very freely about its pivot but this frame feels almost springy between zero and full compression point.

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29er / Re: LCFS911 full suspension
« on: April 22, 2021, 02:53:45 PM »
Quote from: Wiener on April 22, 2021, 02:36:35 AM
Does anyone knows how long the shipping time takes? My frame is send (first update at 5h of April) to The Netherlands bij EMS. Light Carbon told me that it would take 3 to 4 weeks before I would recieve the frame. Any experience with this?
I ordered both frame and wheels. wheels were sent first, they took 18 days to arrive (in the US) from date of first shipping notice from LC. my frame shipped on 4/15 and I hope to receive it in early May - it has already been sent from Hong Kong to the US so just waiting for it to hit customs now.

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29er / Re: Carbonda FM909
« on: April 16, 2021, 10:17:16 AM »
just had to replace the headset bearings on my madone slr (a lot earlier than usual) mostly from sweat getting into them from so much riding indoors during covid. considering that my MTB's generally go through headset bearings far more quickly than my road bikes, i'd either want the absolute most bomb proof bearings i could find or never run internal cables through the bars and headtube on my MTB. it's just a huge pain for an otherwise basic maintenance task.

i'm running etap on the madone so it was only brake housing i was having to mess with but just a ridiculously time consuming process for something that should have otherwise been a 20 minute job.

with that said, i know why you want to do it!   :D

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