Not worth any 2nd tier stuff. Get a used gopro or dji action if you are on a tight budget.

I get about 2h10min out of the dji action 3, price was around $150 USD on sale. Its almost perfect but, image quality not amazing, and they never implemented a proper loop recording mode (for commuting). If you don't care about longish runtime then gopro or insta360 is probably better.

I have one, I suspect all Ali sellers are selling the same thing, heres what I found:

Its clearly from the redshift factory, but some hodge podge of parts. Probably the seatpost tube and linkages are genuine good parts. Then they put together what they could from local suppliers (eg the spring feels a bit soft, and is missing the rubber cover on it). As received it is not safe to use IMO, don't buy if you aren't capable of heavy modifications.

Issues as received:
- Makes a clicking noise when seated, then clicks again when standing up off the seat. Action not smooth at all.
- Rubber seal was improperly installed sticking up, would be damaged under use
- Magnet is weak and fell off easily (they use different screws so maybe thats why, not a big deal)
- Loctite is missing, the screws can eventually fall out. I already had the pins slide sideways after a few days use. Probably won't completely fall apart but still not good.

Fixes:
- Machined new wear rings from delrin (22.1mm OD, ~16mm ID), the old ones did not contact the side of the aluminum tube at all. Either there is a sleeve missing, or they machined the tube or rings incorrectly. Wish I could see a genuine one inside to compare.
- Apply loctite to all set screws
- Apply grease to moving points and plastic wear rings

Otherwise the quality is good. Very soft, much softer than canyon S14 VCLS 2.0. But heavier of course. 530g vs 220g.
If you are willing and able to fix the thing it is a good seatpost, so far..

Quote from: Icyseanfitz on November 10, 2022, 03:28:51 PM
Except he doesn't say it's garbage, Seth actually says he's quite impressed by it, it's only that like me he noticed a certain amount of degradation in performance after riding. I'll pull mine apart at around 500km just to take a good look at it.

Don't really care, its not worth risking your life over.

Garbage

Quote from: zxcvbnmjm on November 09, 2022, 07:03:26 PM
ingrid components claim to be 100% made in italy. i have a feeling that theyre 'made from scratch' fakes. the design has been copied then the copied and sold and also they have then been altered for brands like racework to make their own 'design' crankset (the one with the 24mm spindle)

seems like a lot of copied cnc parts are popping up on aliexpress recently like the fake ee brakes. i have also seen some rebranded and altered version ee brakes on taobao. so i doubt theyre coming from the original factories. im guessing they are coming from cnc factories that are able to copy existing products

IMO quality and details are far too good to be from scratch, think of the effort from such a niche product (54pc sold). The box, stickers, way too much.
Would it be worth it when you could fake a more popular brand that well?

With the eebrakes they mention some small differences here: https://canecreek.com/counterfeit-identification-guide/
But they also indirectly admit the parts are made in China and assembled in USA.

Quote from: 00Garza on November 09, 2022, 07:23:18 PM
Maybe I'm blind, but I couldn't find anything on the Ingrid website or socials that indicate where they are made.

They say on facebook "Designed and made in Italy" and here:
"The team of experienced engineers at Ingrid accept no compromise in the pursue of quality and every part is produce in the factory in Italy."


edit: INGRID verified their parts are machined in Italy. So there is some stolen IP out there. Won't be purchasing those.

Quote from: RDY on October 12, 2022, 12:21:18 PM
The second one looks interesting ... first looks like a disaster - poorly machined and finished, with a 24mm aluminium spindle (I feel like there's a reason that isn't a thing).

If they weren't branding it as Ingrid I'd consider buying once.  But no thanks as they are.

Yeah 24mm alu spindles are known to fail, avoid.

The ingrid stuff is super interesting, they even make derailleurs.
The first thing they show on their page is the warning about fakes: https://ingrid.bike/product/crankset-crs-r2/

This has to be the same factory undercutting them, no way its a from scratch fake. That does not mean the quality is there of course.

Nice pass quest ring.

Knowing the QC of these companies, they may have incorrectly preloaded the bearings. If you are really unlucky its to the point that the bearings are damaged. But if its just a bit tight and you are looking for a free-spinning pedal, try to loosen up the preload nut, assuming it has one.

The second hub I got, I noticed they've changed the rear hub design after trying to swap the endcaps and it wouldn't fit. The freehub is the same though.
Not sure why it was done, ztto didn't explain. It brings the NDS bearing closer in to be below the spoke area. So more like a real DT350.

Quote from: bxcc on June 25, 2021, 08:19:31 AM
I've pondered the idea quite a bit for my new gravel bike but in the end, decided to stick with a rigid fork. For my wife though, it's more of a necessity than a novelty. She's been suffering from neck issues for the past couple of years and has pretty much given up on mountain biking at this point. Even riding her Domane on gravel roads is a bit much. I'm hopeful that a drop bar bike with 700c*45mm tires and roughly 40mm of squish would be a great option for her. Just trying to get creative and see what I can come up with.

Yeah I had broken neck and went to 52mm tires to reduce the shocks and vibrations. The front tire can be bigger and softer. It helps a lot, although you still get bounce.
Suspension seatpost could be good to trial out if you want to add it to an existing frame: https://bikepacking.com/index/suspension-seatposts/
For bars there is also stuff like this: https://redshiftsports.com/products/shockstop-suspension-stem although personally I don't think I could use it, I just wrap lots of bar tape for now. That and gel type gloves.

The ZTTO is $11 (from official store) and brandx is $15. Brandx looks very slightly nicer as it has a washer feature on the hex end.

Just make sure you get the right length and thread pitch.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000480873081.html

Are you talking about blind pulling? What bearing sizes?
Probably have to get something automotive, then find a shim to protect the frame: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002766867744.html

Quote from: bxcc on June 15, 2021, 12:33:27 PM
Thanks. That mounts up better than I had thought.

Do you happen to know what the lowest amount of travel they can do with this style? I'm wondering if 30mm-ish is doable as it might play well with a Lauf fork on a gravel bike.

The idea seems great but then I see many used ones for sale and this article: https://gravelbikes.cc/tests/4-forks-comparison-which-is-the-most-compliant-one/
Makes me question its usefulness.

Looks good. No fender mounts though?
Pic is a bit small to see the dimensions.

Here is a photo of the Mastrant M3:



The full rope is 3.0mm and the core portion is about 1.9mm.

The advantage of Mastrant is its low cost and easy to purchase online. Downside is its many hundreds of thin strands twisted for its core, which means you'd have to use the Spinergy method of joining the ends. You could use it with the polyester sheath I suppose, but all the sheath does is protect from abrasion. I don't think there is a concern for abrasion other than at locations where the spoke attaches (eg some hub holes are quite sharp).

Since its been discussed in the ztto hub thread a few times its worth having a dedicated area here.

The massive MTBr thread: https://www.mtbr.com/threads/make-your-own-polymer-uhmwpe-spokes.1091276/
Avoid mentioning B3RD if possible, they stuck their noses in the thread above and tried to kill off any discussion.

Rope options:
Comparison list:


DM20 is the only possible option for Dyneema brand rope due to creep. If you use one of their formulations like SK99 it will stretch over a matter of days and the wheel will lose tension. The majority of "dyneema" for sale online is this SK type, DM20 is much harder to find.

Other options would be PBO, para-aramid, or vectran (LCP).


Sourcing:
Brand name       Diameter   Working strength   Breaking strength   Color   Weave
Marlow M-Rig max   2.5mm    839kg                   Black   
Liros D-Pro static    3mm       917kg                   Grey   
Mastrant M3           3.2mm   117kg   390kg   Twist
Mastrant M4           3.9mm    270kg   900kg   Sheath: Black Core: White    Twist
FL-32.NG               1.5mm     350daN (336kg)   White/Mix   Braid

Another sourcing option might be fishing line, as you can get Spectra line. But it would be necessary to weave multiple strands together.


Adhesion:
Apparently B3RD spokes are using simple cyanoacrylate to hold the DM20 to the threaded spoke portion. The weave also will grab providing friction.
Cyanoacrylate seems to be used in various places for bonding UHMWPE (what DM20 is made of).
Products are being sold as "surface prep" for plastics, as far as I can tell its just Heptane. Haven't investigated what it actually does to the plastic though. Then the other side of the spoke on the hub end is held in place with an eye splice.


Commercial brands:
- B3RD uses weaved DM20, 1.8mm thickness.
- Spinergy PBO uses sheathed PBO straight strands with end caps. Ends are epoxied into a conical end cap (link). I'm not sure if the same epoxy would work on DM20.
- PiRope uses weaved Vectran.