1300 miles. Feels rough to turn. The other side is fine. Need a solution.

Has anyone ordered replacement bearings from Carbonda?

Quote from: binaryagent on March 24, 2023, 06:57:21 AM
FSA 55R 1.5"/558 in stock. Total with shipping $56.97.

https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-558

I received a promotional email...
"Take an easy 25% off with Promo Code "FSASPRINGCLASSIC" at checkout!"  April 2 - 23.

FSA 55R 1.5"/558 in stock. Total with shipping $56.97.

https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-558

Quote from: Guives on February 18, 2023, 08:26:47 PM
Whats is the name of that tool?

H15 Adjustable Hand Reamer Tool 1.1/2" to 1.13/16" 38.10 To 46.03mm

https://www.ebay.com/itm/225246533396

Carbon Fiber BB repair pics.

The carbon fiber bottom bracket repair came out about 95%. I could do it again and get much closer. The holes are very round. I'll post pics sometime.

The Ztto BB ordered as a replacement was a fail because I needed to remove it after a trial install but the internal plastic sleeve covers the bearing race contact point. It has to be destroyed with a screw driver and removed before attempting to remove either side of the BB. Not knowing this I spent about 30 minutes customizing a tool... long story.

The bike is fully assembled and I've ridden it around the neighborhood with no creaking. For now I installed the old SRAM BB that is going bad but good enough to test the carbon fiber repair on a trail or two.

Stay away from TanTan for this and other parts issues.

Additional Resources:

FSA Replacement Bearing:
https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/acb-bearing-1

Enduro Bearings shows that these are replacement bearings for the MR-127 bearing (these are thinner than the FSA bearing above and more like the Carbonda bearing):
https://cycling.endurobearings.com/products/acb-6808-cc $18
https://cycling.endurobearings.com/products/acb-6808-cc-ss $32
https://cycling.endurobearings.com/products/acb-6808-cc-sxd $109

Unavailable FSA ACR Retro Fit:
https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-558 $45

Ritchie Headset:
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/ritchey-comp-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-upper-headset ~$74



The FSA PDF doc shows the ACR specs for the head tube, bearings, etc.

BrokenTibia took a nice picture (attached) to show the difference in the Carbonda and FSA bearing. You can see why the FSA bearing would sit deeper in the head tube and would be more stable. The bearing retainer above the bearing is what really needs more stability though.

Guess I should have clarified which problem with the headset this will fix. It won't fix the corrosion problem. Also, if your top headset bearing is worn out and loose this won't fix it.

However, if your headtube is popping because the top bearing and bearing retainer are moving around and the bearing retainer is slipping past the bearing ridges this will be a permanent fix... not a preferred fix, but definitely a permanent fix.

The ACR design came from FSA and Vision Bicycle Components. They might be the same company, not sure. The motivation for the hidden cables, I'm guessing, comes from the need to reduce wind resistance in triathlon bikes. Somehow, someone thought it would look clean on a mountain bike so they used the design there. In my opinion the ACR design doesn't work with mountain bikes because the headset bearings and head tube have to withstand much more force from the fork steerer tube and the ACR design doesn't allow for that. In my case, my front wheel slid directly into a tree and all of my weight and momentum put a huge amount of force on the top headset bearing and I heard a distinct pop. I thought maybe I cracked the frame. After that I started getting regular popping in the headset. When I inspected the headset I could see why it was popping.

The bearings and the head tube and the bearing retainer in the ACR design are kind of like the concave and convex washers of a brake bolt. They are able to slide within each other and only the angle of contact between the surfaces keeps them centered. If the retaining force applied is not straight down the steerer tube the parts will not be able to maintain correct positioning. Since the ACR top bearing retainer only makes contact with about 60% of the bearing surface it is not able to apply consistent force all the way around the bearing and so it tends to slide toward the lack of support. And since the lack of bearing retainer surface is at the front of the head tube where the most force is applied, there is not enough of a metal ridge to keep the bearing and the bearing retainer in place. When the bearing retainer is turned 90 degrees the bearing is held down with more force in the front and there is a metal ridge there to keep the bearing retainer in place. So now there is no movement between the pieces and no popping. The weakness in the bearing retainer is moved so that side forces can disrupt the positioning but the side forces applied to the head tube are insignificant compared to the force from front and rear - no risk there.

I'm including pics of the top bearing retainer. You can see where it had been slipping past the bearing and causing the popping.

There are other solutions from FSA and Ritchie but the FSA solution is not available and the Ritchie solution is cost prohibitive when $50 shipping from the UK is added.

I bought the FSA ACR replacement bearing and it sits lower in the head tube so won't move as much but decided that it was not necessary once I figured out the source of the problem. You can buy the bearing alone from Amazon for $22. It came without the black zinc oxide coating which is partially why I wanted it. I have another solution for the rust issue though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RW5FQB4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

YW

Now I've found that since the BB hole is not round the bearing race gets distorted and causes the bearings to drag and fail prematurely. I've decided to attempt a repair with carbon fiber and epoxy and an adjustable hand reamer. The blades on the reamer are 105mm long so I should be able to ream both sides at once and keep things lined up. The BB92 shell has to be 40.98mm to accommodate the 41mm BB.

Quote from: brex on October 26, 2022, 06:36:16 PM
Well good luck having it done the wrong way.
And yes, sram absolutely DO recommend you do it the right way. If you don't want to believe their docs, send them an email.
Yes, every manufacturer on the planet routing it correctly does make it the right way. Some random bike building novice doing it wrong doesn't make his way the right way.
But whatever, you do you and have your brake hose routed the wrong way.

This is the kind of person you start talking to in a bar and quickly start trying to find someone else to talk to. 

Stay away from TanTan. The BB on my FM10 is delaminating after less than two years. The top shock mount bolt broke and they sent the wrong size for a replacement. Then they played stupid and we went round and round even though I sent them pictures with dimensions. Some Chinese play stupid when you catch them cheating or they don't want to fulfill their obligations. It's in the business culture. I finally found a local machinist to fix it for $50.

When I told them about the delaminating BB I got crickets.

Also the frame had some issues with finishing  that I had to overcome and cheap grommets. The holes in the chain stay weren't large enough for BH90 brake hose so I had to route it externally with zip ties.

Quote from: brex on October 25, 2022, 11:56:56 PM
I have seen exactly nobody ever route their brake hose external to the fork.

Read through this thread and you'll see it's about 50/50.

Quote from: brex on October 25, 2022, 11:56:56 PM
If you do a Google search for rockshox lyrik, you won't find a picture of the brake hose routed external, all of them internal.

This is pretty much true. All of them look awkward to me. Just because one guy does something one way and everyone follows doesn't make it the right way.

Quote from: brex on October 25, 2022, 11:56:56 PM
Because if you look at the rockshox guide you will see that is the opposite of what they suggest.

This is BS. I checked. It just says to "secure the disc brake hose into the guide". The guides on forks are different. Mine clearly directs the housing around the outside of the fork tube.

On the surface, and as a purist, one would say it should be routed internally so that it isn't exposed to the "elements" and because it's a naturally cleaner look. However, if you look at how closely it's routed to the fork there is little chance of something getting caught. I'd say I've got a much better chance of getting a cedar branch stuck in my eye. Also, every time I ride I get a stick tossed up into my spokes and kicked around. Having the cable routed internally increases the chances of that stick getting lodged and breaking a spoke.

In the end I've wasted way too much of my life on this subject. 

Quote from: Swolie74 on October 25, 2022, 08:05:14 AM
What size frame?

Large. The 19" FM10 was 29 lbs with the same components.

Quote from: carbonazza on October 25, 2022, 12:10:10 AM
Aren't the hoses entering the frame a bit too short?
If you fall and the steerer goes right the frame there will be tension.

The bars go way past 90 degrees but there is tension at that point. Now I'll probably do the next ones a little looser.

Quote from: carbonazza on October 25, 2022, 12:10:10 AM
And you didn't want to have the front brake hose inside between the wheel and the fork? I guess to not be grabbed by a branch or any obstacle.

That's the route Rockshox intended and the same way everyone else routes it?

I do need to trim the steerer tube a little and round the carbon spacer at the top. There's a razor sharp edge that could slice skin easily and the protruding steerer tube could do some puncture damage to the chest.