On Strava: https://www.strava.com/activities/17369519118

You can also see there is a flat line with 0 watts at some point.

Looking at the date log, one of the "zero watts" moments is on a downhill - could be coasting, not pedalling

What’s your plan for tensioning the chain?

The Phil Wood eccentric bottom bracket looks like the most bulletproof choice, but when I add up the $250 for the bottom bracket plus the $85 tool it makes a cheap frame kinda expensive 

There is a similar product for about half the price, I don't know if you have any opinions on this? https://www.firstcomponents.com/bottom-brackets/eccentric/p237sa/ . It does look like the design has a higher risk of the set screws slipping , or stripping of the threads, but I'm no expert. The technical drawing also shows it accepts a spindle diameter of 22/24mm, which I think is GXP, and I'm not sure there's a boost option.

My other option would be a chain tensioner where a rear derailleur might go.

I tend to run either a 32x19 or a 32 x 20, a few times a year I'll race in a bigger gear if the terrain is mostly flat. How time consuming is it to change tension with the Phil Wood EBB?

Hi Guys,

Looking to drop the hammer on a new frame in the next couple of days. I've checked the specs for the IP-256 and it looks impressive. it's also ~$410. What separates this frame from a $280 carbon ebay frame (http://www.ebay.com/itm/FR-202-Full-Carbon-UD-Matt-Mountain-Bike-MTB-29ER-Frame-Headset-15-5-17-5-19-/251641721547?pt=US_Bicycles_Frames&hash=item3a9703f2cb ) ?

I should add that I'm 5'11". and a 210# Clydesdale racer. I'll be running a 1 x 10 drivetrain and may run a front chainring as big as 36 teeth.

If i go with the IP-256, who should I order it from?

Any help would be appreciated!

thanks
Iain