QuoteBest I can figure it was caused by insufficient strength of the wall of the seat tube

Or the DIY mods.. You definitely won that one with a $50 replacement.

Adam was quick to respond to a first email. He's gone radio silent now that I'm ready to part with my cash though ?!?
Tried Wing.. bounceback failure

Looking to burn up build kits on potentially 3 frames.
Key parts are I've 3 trunion shocks needing a home and at the least I'd like an XC build and a Trail Build
1 x Nude 165x45 (Spark)
1 x DPS 185x55 (Genius)
1 x X2 205x65 (ransom)
I figure there'll be a saving on shipping to do all 3 from the same supplier.

So, whats going to give me the best solution;
Carbonda (936+1001+1002) or
Lightcarbon (917 or 958 + 947 + skip the 205shock)

Speed of shipping to Canada might be the deal maker
Any other suggestions welcomed.
ta

QuoteHow have you guys that run a shock with trunnion mount solved the problem with that the shock is 54mm and the space between the frame/bearings are 56mm

I don't have this frame but bearings here seem superfluous. There'll be next to zero rotation here.
anyway, scott use igus bushings then a top hat style spacer pressed from the inside out. this allows the bolt to drive the spacer against the shock body and take out any slack.
I'd think you'll need a 1mm spacer washer between the inner bearing race and shock body on each side. small enough outer diameter that it doesn't bind on the outer race.

remedy7, so you know, next time you paint, montana gold wet sands pretty nicely. You could've knocked down that texture that those Montana cans give before going to the spraymax top coat

QuoteMy only bad one is on my FM936 where I got a Torx30, that no multi tool has.

You'll want to check out Syncros offerings.
All my Syncros tools come with a T30, probably because scott use them on all pivots. As you found out, in reverse.. a t30 turns into a 6mm when pushed far enough which is good for kabolt/oneup axles

Enter

are we hoping for too much from the Chinese hardware on this?

I used a can of spraymax 2k epoxy primer on my knife stripped frame. 3 light coats of montana gold color coat (2 cans), another couple of different color coats after masking for decals which was 1/2+ can, then 1.5 cans of 2k epoxy matt clear to finish.
Thats 5 x 300g cans of paint, removing the overspray on the floor and in the filter media, there's almost no way that's only going to have added 150g of weight. I'd guess closer to an added pound of weight
With your huge layer buildup, I wonder what kind of weight of paint you have.

Just various thicknesses and types of weaves, epoxy and shrink tape.
I'll make basic forms where necessary like with the carbon skeleton of the Nordic skate  ski boots I fixed last.
I've done some complex repairs at home, chainstay bridges, BB/main pivot area etc..all with shrink tape and electrical tape. The excess epoxy comes out theought the wrap laps with heat under the low amount of tape pressure.

It's clearly cracked, not sure why eddy needs the frame to see that.
He would want the frame to see if it's poor machining though or hadn't been through QC at that finishing stage.
Otherwise, wrong size seatpost or the easy out of saying it was ridden/tested with insufficient insertion.

The  way you said installed to mark a cut point  reminded me of a friend who put his seatpost in to mark for the cut. Set his height, marked it, added the "minimum insertion depth" measurement as printed on the bottom of the post. Cut it, reinstalled it, sat on it and snapped the seat tube. Proper brain fart on his part.
Fortunately it was the relative early days of carbon and a 34.9mm seat tube. We epoxied in a shim and he ran a 31.6 post successfully.
With a fixed post, I'd insert it to its bottom out position,  figure how much lower I need it to be which equals how much I want to take off, remove the post then measure up from the end of the post.

I personally would repair that crack at home, but I have all the materials to do it.

Anyone have a working email address for carbonda?
getting bouncebacks off info@ and other previous addresses.

Looks like a repair patch over a void or deficiency.

looks to me like the frame has had some post production sanding and one layer of UD carbon has been sanded through.
You can see orbital sander marks in the image too.

You're seeing a few frames now using "flex stays" rather than these physical pivots.
The flex stays are designed to provide the small angular change between seat stays and chainstays that pivots also provide.
Bearing based pivots tend to still be used on longer travel bikes where weight is less of an issue than a light xc bike which are trending into the flex stays design.
People used to moan about bushings.being used in that application rather than bearings, but as there's often so little rotation there anyways bearings could be considered overkill