Quote from: dan_cx on March 09, 2022, 01:06:33 PM
Wait... WHAT?!!!   Was this with the regular shipping, or did you get a faster option? Wing did reconfirm my shipping address (in SF) on Monday, so hopefully I'll be seeing a tracking number by the end of the week.

Air shipping ($195).
If there is a cheaper option, I was not aware of it.

BTW, I built this immediately and I've already ridden it 4 times .. and it's awesome
My only tip is to re-tighten the linkage bolts, as others suggested: mine were all loose.

Quote from: dan_cx on March 04, 2022, 10:58:45 AM
Frame ordered & Wing confirmed receipt of payment. Any guesses on how long it will take for it to arrive in California? I know the world is currently a mess, so there's no expectation of it being here next week, by any means. And I'm sidelined with a fractured heel for a few more months, so it's not like I can ride anyway (Note: walking on the beach is dangerous).

I order an fm936 (SL, M) from Carbonda 3 weeks ago.
It was shipped after 3 days and arrived 4 days later at my doorstep in Berkeley.

Still available, pictures attached.
The frame has some scratches on the side of the chainstay and the upper-facing bottom part of the downtube, where I had strapped my tool bag.

Quote from: endo.alley on February 12, 2022, 11:14:54 AM
At 5'7" in height what was the longest dropper post you could use with the 947? That is my issue only with this frame.

I use a 150mm One Up V2, but when I stick it all the way down, which is necessary for my height, the bend in the sit tube pushes the cable to the side, making it unreliable.

To fix this, I unscrewed the actuator cup by half a turn (and added threadlock). This this moved the position of the cable towards the front of the bike, clearing the tube bend. Note: the One Up cable exit is out-of-center (see https://s14761.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/One-up-V2-dropper-actuator-001.jpg).

I don't know if the cable exit is always in the same position relatively to the sit clamp... if not, some of the posts might be fine out of the box.

[Edit: frame sold]

I'm selling my LCFS947 (M, matte black), please message me, if interested.

I love this frame, but I also joined the AM831 group buy and the 2 frames are really quite similar.

The frame is in very good condition ridden less than 300 miles, with few cosmetic scratches and no major crashes on it.
I can send picture, if you like.

I have Fox Float DPS Evol shock on it, which I can also sell with the frame.

Quote from: JJJ on February 10, 2022, 02:34:37 AM
What makes you say the 831 is easier to manage? Did you try an 831 in the same conditions? The chainstays are about the same length, just 2 mm less for the 831 (would that make the difference?).

Hard to say: yes I did ride both in the same trail/condition, but my fitness level could have been different.
I only noticed a small difference, if any.
I also thought that the 947 climbed a little better, but again not sure why.

.. as I was writing this, I just remember that I was initially running a 5mm longer stem in the 947, which could account for both.

[Edit: I sold the frame]

Hi,

I'm considering selling my LCFS947 (M, matte black), please message me, if interested.

I love this frame, but I also joined the AM831 group buy and the 2 frames are really quite similar.
In my opinion the 947 is stiffer and more robust (also does not have the triangle linkage problem).
I'm short and light (5'7", 144) and the 831 is a tad easier to manage in tight corners, that's why I settled on that (plus it came in a flashy baby-blue color

The frame is in very good condition ridden less than 300 miles, with few cosmetic scratches and no major crashes on it.
I have Fox Float DPS Evol shock on it, which I can also sell with the frame.

Quote from: geekbox32 on September 04, 2021, 09:32:25 PM
After being out of town, waiting for parts, and finding the time. I was finally able to finish the build up today. Hopefully I can get it in some dirt soon.

Looking good!
Only missing the matching valve cap in the rear

Somebody asked about sitpost insertion length: my "S" frame only had about 13.5cm, measured from the edge of the sitpost's tube, not from the actuator.

Looking down the sit tube, it appeared as if the insertion should have been much longer: the tube was open all the way down to the shock mount.
Upon further inspection, I noticed what was stopping the sitpost: the top part of the sit tube has an inner carbon tube, which is the one where the sitpost slides, the same that is squeezed by the clamp.
This inner tube is somehow epoxied to the outer tube, which is part of the frame. The epoxy a the bottom of the inner tube bulged out in a few spots, reducing the diameter.

I decided that this was an unintended side effect of the assembly process and that it was not structural, hence I proceeded to painstakingly file down the bulging epoxy. This resulted into close-to-infinite insertion length

You should probably not try to do the same, unless you are sure that my "it is non structural" assumption is correct..
..but if you do, the best way I found to get it done is to tape some sandpaper to the bottom of a tube with a smaller outer diameter than the sitpost, say 25mm.
It is also useful to mark the "sanding tube" at the proper insertion length, to prevent sanding away anything else by the protruding epoxy: enlarging the sit tube diameter would probably be quite bad.

Anybody else posting their build pictures?
Somebody else must have built by now!

BTW, I did a couple of rides on this bike (40km, 1200m of elevation in total) and I'm pretty impressed:
  - relatively efficient on the way up
  - handles well on steep downhill
  - it is easier to handle in tight spots than my LCFS947 (Lightcarbon), even though the geometries are very close.

Quote from: Confused on September 02, 2021, 07:52:17 PM
Short answer - 22.2 and have some shims.  We don't have multiple samples of the linkage reporting dimensions...yet.  Also, one person will test the Santa Cruz linkage - if it works the 30mm front and rear roller bearings become options.

If going the 22.2 option BK5864 is a part that has a needle bearing.  Bikeinn had some in stock at the time of this posting.

My measurement was 22.86, which you can find, for example here https://www.amazon.com/Shock-Mount-Hardware-Washer-M8x22-86mm/dp/B08HR4YLMY
I used 22.2 + shims, because that's what I had.

Quote from: BSAM on August 30, 2021, 12:37:19 AM
riding_truckee,

Would you share with us where you brought the mounting hardware for the rear shock? 

Really nice build.  Thank you for sharing with us.

Bsam.

CambriaBike.com because thy had both in stock, last week.

Quote from: bbr on August 29, 2021, 10:08:31 PM
Finally a full build pic. Nice build. Your dropper cable housing will rub down on your shock. What was your solution for housing knocking inside the frame and rear swing arm?

Any idea for an elegant rear mud guard? I have not figured one out.

Hopefully you guys have cycle the rear suspension  movement for any binding. The top link at the top tube  might need a 10*16*1 spacer bushing. Very well depend on the frame tolerance.


No pic from me as mine is generic black build. Pretty much the same looks just all black.

The top link at the top tube already has bushings and it is a tight fit, that's the one i disassembled to mount the rear shock.

Re: dropper cable rubbing in the shock, yes it will be an issue. I have no idea of what to do, do you?
SC HT seems to route the dropper cable somewhere else.. not sure where.
Re: cable knocking inside the frame, in past builds I've stuck a piece of copper-tube insulation foam (the one that looks a bit like a pool noodle) in the downtube, from the headtube. I'll do it when the knocking starts bothering me... sometimes you get lucky and it doesn't happen.
Re: mud guard, not a problem in CA, at least not for now.. unfortunately.

Attaching a picture of my finished build. This frame size is "S".
Only the bottom cage is missing and I haven ridden it yet, apart up and down the street to tune suspension and saddle height.

Some interesting parts of my build:

• assembling the lower pin of the rear shock was challenging, as I could not find any position of the rear triangle that gave me enough clearance to remove the bolt. I ended up unscrewing the top hinge form the frame (removing the 2 bolts just under the saddle). Not sure if that was the best choice because repositioning the hinge wasn't easy, but it worked
• my mounting hardware for the shock was M8x30 and M8x22.199. The x30 (top) fit perfectly, the x22.199 was loose: i measured 22.86mm for the opening. Rather than ordering a new one, I 3d printed 2 spacers, which seem to work well
• My shock is a Fox dpx2. It fits pretty well, but the access to the air valve is tight, I can barely connect my pump to the valve.
• I used a Fox36 fork, that barely clears the frame, after using the 0.5 degree angle spacer from Reverse, which is about 10mm tall. BTW, jham asked about installing the angle spacer: it is an "interference fit", just like a standard crown race. I used a piece of PVC pipe with id of about 1.5" to push it down, with the help of a rubber mallet

As for my component list, most of them are reused form other builds or both 2nd hand:

• fork: Fox36 w/ GRIP2 damper. The damper adjustments barely clear the frame even after adding the angle spacer
• rear shock: Fox dpx2, see my comments above for the mounting hardware
• drivetrain: SRAM Eagle GX, with SRAM DUB 89/92 pressfit bottom bracket
• wheelset: Lightcarbon 350MB-AD938-Race, shared with my other frame
• breakset: Shimano M8200, which I got new at a good price form a seller on Pinkbike. The rotors are generic from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082NVF3TD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
• dropper post: and old Tranzx 31.6x140. I pushed it all the way down the downtube.. and it still might be too high, I need to double check it, but I have not measured the insertion depth
• saddle: a SDG Radar.. I have no idea of how good or comfortable it is, I got it at a discount because my other SGB Bel Air failed, but I have to say that I like a lot my WTB Volt on the other bike
• stem and Carbon Handlebar: inexpensive from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0916YJ81R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JPF4T71/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
• headset and Sitclamp: I used the one that came with the frame. The frame also came with 4 cable hole plugs, for the larger holes by the bottom of the downtube. They are rubber, not easy to install. Not sure if they will hold
• missing: chainstay (and maybe downtube) protection. I have something that might work, but I haven't tried to install it yet.

I hope this is helpful to others..

OK, everything is fine: sorry for the noise! 
My brand new GX derailleur had a metal chip stuck in one of the hinges which prevented it from returning to the end position!

This would teach me to do bike work late at night and then post my mistakes to a forum!
In the process, I also checked the design of the hanger against SRAM specs (https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/frame-fit-specifications/mtb/2021-mtb-frame-fit-specifications.pdf), and it is totally in spec!

sorry everybody!