Of course, if you got any quality issue, feel free to contact me via email.

Eddy@haidelibicycle.com

Thanks.
Eddy

Hi Eddy,

I just sent you an email. I emailed you before but you just replied trying to sell me a new triangle. But you never addressed that you sent me a defective frame that has a problem with the bolts and bushing moving.

For your reference, the email I sent is below:

I have built my AM831 and have a problem. The rear triangle moves side to side even when bolts are tight on the upper bolt on the link. When I put my hand and I can move it and It makes a clicking noise and see where the bushing is moving. The bolt is fully tight. It  it should not do this. What can you do to help fix it? It is defective. Asking me to to pay for new triangle is not appropriate. The product is flawed. Please advise.

Unfortunately I can’t ride the bike to test the difference. The rear triangle rubs the frame and it’s already gone through the paint. They won’t warranty the frame , actually they refuse any help. So I’m waiting on the new bolts to hopefully fix this rub so I can ride it again. Im afraid if I keep riding the frame it’s going to go through carbon and I’ll be completely out of a bike.

Sorry that Haideli and Eddy are taking that route. I haven’t ridden my bike either because there is excessive movement and clicking noise of the bearing moving around. When I reported this to Eddy all he did was offer to sell me a rear triangle, without addressing the defect. I am waiting to try the bolts JJJ has designed before I ride also.

Inevitably, when the triangle is submitted to lateral forces, the bearing will end up sliding to this position, where the eyelet contacts the screw head, and rubs against it as the triangle and link rotate relative to each other. After a while, clearance may build up between the outer race and the eyelet, whereby the bearing will move freely in and out... The rubbing with the screw head will cause wear and potentially loosen the screw...

What about using bearing retainer compound? I had a similar problem on a different frame with the bearing race in the rear upper triangle that was machined too deep which allowed the bearing to move in the race. The bolt head was flat and tightening was limited because it contacted the link and not the bearing. Adding washers and bolt length would not solve the issue. I used Loctite 603 to fix the bearing in the race and it seemed to fix the issue although I did not use the frame much after that.

I have a lot of flexing and the drive side has some play that you can see move when pulling in the rear triangle. There is also some clicking noise as the bearing has extra play.

I checked out the included headset bearing and it looks like it is a 45/45, whereas the Cane Creek crown race is a 36 degree seat. The included headset bearing doesn't seat well. The lower bearing will need to be changed to a 36/45 52mm bearing to make it work correctly. Or you could run a Cane Creek headset.

- I bought a shimano BB, the OEM one looks ok, just is much heavier being in alluminium while shimano is mostly plastic; shimano bearings are sticky, OEM are loose and move easily, probably shimano is better; do I need to install the BB spacer oncrank side?

I am using a Shimano press fit BB. According to Shimano instructions when used with 92mm wide frame (which is what the frame measures) no spacer is used. However, I do have a clearance issue with a M7100 SLX crank/chainring. The 2-piece chainring bolts on the back side of the SLX ring are up against the swing arm with fraction of a mm clearance. Using the BB spacer ring would help but I would rather not go that route. I am thinking about using an aftermarket chainring without bolts. That way it won’t affect chain line.

In stock (limited quantity) of the m8 x 30 shock hardware:
Rockshox
https://thelostco.com/products/rockshox-rear-mounting-hardware?variant=32611062284369

Fox
https://thelostco.com/products/the-real-2021-fox-mounting-hardware?variant=32303770370129