Do your front derailleur guides wear off the chain so quickly? I've traveled maybe 500 km and the derailleur slide looks bad. What will it be like when I've traveled 5,000 km? It's probably a hole right through. I'm very concerned about this

This seems a bit concerning. Is anyone else seeing something similar?

I have a Velobuild VBR-099 with a Velobuild wheel set. My bike weighs 8.1kg but bear in mind it’s a somewhat heavy build due to various choices I made. e.g. 11-36 cassette, long cage derailleur, longer chain, 32c tubeless tyres, 160mm rotors (which require an adaptor bracket for the brake caliper on this frame), extra padding under the bar tape etc.

My setup is 105 mechanical (other than the Ultegra crankset). Routing the cables was quite tricky but once done it’s been absolutely trouble free. I love this bike and I’d by another one any day of the week! If I recall correctly, it was delivered to the UK in about a week from ordering which was a pleasant surprise. Some people find the bars a little too flexy but for me they're great and they absorb road vibrations nicely. If you're doing a lot of hard sprints out of the saddle, I guess you might not like them so much.

Hello, how to eliminate loosening of the seatpost and handlebar HB010 central screw every cca 10 km of riding 

This carbon paste has worked really well for me:
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Peatys-Max-Grip-Carbon-Assembly-Paste-75g_240931.htm

It has nice fine abrasive particles in it and I have zero slipping of the seat post.

I'm using full mechanical shifting (Shimano 105/Ultegra) and brakes (Juin Tech GT-Fs) but am not sure what you mean about the adjuster for the derailleur?

Are you referring to the front or rear derailleur? The only adjuster I can think of is the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur however on my 105 this is part of the derailleur itself?

Some older front derailleurs required a barrel adjuster in the cable. I think it would be difficult/impossible to use these on a fully integrated frame. Best to get a derailleur with the adjuster built in, like with the latest generation of Shimano 105.

I actually just realised that the WCB-R-268 frame discussed in this thread is (as far as I can see) the same frame as a Velobuild VB-R-099. The frame looks identical and the geometry table is identical, although the shape of the fork looks somewhat different.

The VB-R-099 is $499 (plus $117 shipping), including integrated handlebar, axles, seat post and spare derailleur hanger/headset spacers. That's like 40% less than a Workswell WCB-R-268! Certainly makes me question Workswell pricing. Personally I had a very positive experience with Velobuild. My many questions were answered quickly. The frame/wheels were shipped within 48 hours of ordering and they arrived with me in the UK in less than 3 weeks.

ordered from here
https://www.lordgun.com/specialized-tarmac-sl7-seatpost-clamp-cover-1

Please report back!

Hi all,

I am writing, because I am very upset with the support of TanTan (not my superb TT-X21 Frame) ... I rode it for 1300km right now and it's really fast. Unfortunally I've got the same problems at the front end - the bar allways feels a bit loose after some miles - so I guess I have the same issues than some of you here. TanTan won't help me - instead I should buy another bar/stem and another headset, so it's on my to solve the problem: My suggestions would be the ACR headset and another compression ring (where do I get that?), maybe spacers (it looks like room is enough between cover and headtube). Another idea is to change to this here: Ritchey Comp Logic-E. Do you think that should work/fit? I only can read 45 degrees on this bearing. With this headset cover I would change to another stem/bar. Am I right that with this one I would have the use of the half compression ring?

https://www.bike-discount.de/de/ritchey-comp-logic-e-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-steuersatz-oberteil?number=20091772&__delivery=2&__currency=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAo4OQBhBBEiwA5KWu_-DE6SHPBb5cR-0Ikhyw8vfaGxB39HlHeeZgIHEdZ-Uc4XAjB0yvTBoC4SsQAvD_BwE

I really need your help here - don't want to break something when going fast with this beast...

Best wishes from Germany,
Tim

Can you describe your problem in more detail? You say "the bar allways feels a bit loose after some miles".
If everything is fine to begin with, but then a problem is developing after some period of using the bike, then clearly something must be moving/slipping/loosening.

Here are a few thoughts:

-Are you sure you're tightening the stem clamp enough? The two stem clamp bolts on my bike had some excess metal fragments in them which made it difficult to tighten them properly. I felt I was making the bolts really tight but the stem would still not grip the steerer tube enough. I had to clear out the metal fragments in order to make it work properly.

-Have you tried using carbon paste between the stem clamp and steerer tube?

-When you tighten everything up, is your steering perfectly smooth? If it is not smooth and you can feel grinding/rubbing/friction or any movement/wobbling then you probably need some spacers. These are the ones I used: https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/spacers/road-mtb/micro-spacer

-Have you tightened the compression plug enough before tightening the stem? I used this compression plug: https://www.lordgunbicycles.co.uk/deda-70-mm-headset-expander-plug-for-1-1-8-carbon-forks-1 It was a pretty tight fit but it works very well once installed (on a Velobuild R-099 which I believe is the same frame as the TT-X21).

-Are you sure you trimmed your steerer tube short enough to allow the compression plug to do it's job?