"Did you end up sticking with the 27x 2.3'' tires or did you go wider?  I am looking to run 27.5x 2.3 or 2.4 for my wife.  I do not want to run 27.5 plus tires.  I am just looking for ride quality on this frame with "normal" 27.5'' tires."

I actually went wider. I returned the 27.5x2.3 and instead got 27.5 x 2.5'' both front and rear. I feel like it worked well for me, I liked the grip that it provides, and running lower air pressure. I usually run about 24 PSI rear and 22 psi front. I do enduro riding, enjoy technical terrain, rock gardens, medium jumps, and medium drops. The 2.5'' look pretty sick with the wider tires. I know with narrower tires, the climbing efficiency is incrementally better. I didn't notice too much of a difference with the 2.5''.

I hope this helps.

-Crankydad

Quote from: Crankydad on January 08, 2024, 01:49:03 PM
Ah that's good to know. If grommets don't sit, might just leave it as is like you did. Very bad placement for internal routing holes from front triangle to rear triangle.

I think I'll try what Tijoe recommended see if possible to remove bottom bolts from rear triangle and unhinge it from there and hopefully have more room to work with routing cables.

Thanks for your reply and suggestions.

Crankydad

I was able to remove the rear triangle lower hinge bolt to front lower front triangle! It took a 6mm hex wrench on one side, and also a 5mm hex wrench (ball end of 5mm hex wrench) for the other side to hold one screw steady while turning the 6mm hex wrench to unfasten it. Photo of success below! Thank you Tijoe and FullCarbon for help.



-Crankydad

Quote from: FullCarbonAlchemist on January 08, 2024, 12:20:29 PM
Those grommets are a real PITA. I tried repeatedly to get them seated right (came out of place during cable install) and eventually gave up trying. Even had a local shop give it a go and no dice.

Ended up just leaving them imperfectly seated and it's never been a problem.

Ah that's good to know. If grommets don't sit, might just leave it as is like you did. Very bad placement for internal routing holes from front triangle to rear triangle.

I think I'll try what Tijoe recommended see if possible to remove bottom bolts from rear triangle and unhinge it from there and hopefully have more room to work with routing cables.

Thanks for your reply and suggestions.

Crankydad

Quote from: Tijoe on January 07, 2024, 10:42:45 PM
I removed the bottom bolt assembly holding the the lower rear triangle to the back of the frame.  It was the only way I could figure out how to run housing through  the triangle, grommets and bottom bracket area.

Oo I will try that! Thank you. Will try that today. Thank for your response and helping me out. I really appreciate it.

Crankydad

Quote from: FullCarbonAlchemist on January 06, 2024, 02:36:13 PM
Excellent build! I see you opted not to go with the X2 — was there any particular reason(s) for that?

Hi everyone,

I'm working on building up my Carbonda FM1002. I'm having trouble doing the internal routing for rear shifter cable and rear brake cable. I'm actually working on the rear shifter cable first. It's really frustrating. I'm using a magnet internal routing kit. I've tried from the front to back of frame, and also from the back to front of frame. I've had a little success going from back to front of frame. I was able to get the cable housing from rear triangle then to the front triangle. At the front triangle, it just gets stuck just about 3 inches in from the bottom bracket area and I have a long way to go up the downtube to the cable port.

Those 2 rubber grommets cable ports between the rear triangle and front triangle for the cables are really pissing me off.

I read some other comments on this thread, I know there was suggesting to remove the rear triangle. I could definitely see that as an option. But it looks like to remove the rear triangle, the bearing covers require special tools? I see hex wrench covers, I see some torq wrench, and there's one that lt looks like it's just blank.

I need help. Please share advice thank you!

Quote from: casual_build on July 03, 2023, 07:04:32 PM

In general, the seat post insertions is no problem for this frame. On my large frame, I can fully insert my 180mm OneUp V2 dropper, almost 27cm of insertion.

Regarding the overfork/underforking questions, the reach would be quite different. The FM1002 has much more reach than the FM1001. Underforking the FM1002 would increase the reach even more. Over forking the FM1001 would decrease the reach even more. I would guess 5-9mm difference each way, plus the 7mm built in difference so the two builds would have a 17-25mm in total reach difference.


Personally, I would recommend overforking for both bikes! My 170mm Lyrik puts me at 64 degrees with the head angle and make my large frame feel more medium. I think the FM1002 is the best, just don't count on the paint being perfect if you go with Carbonda!

I just recently completed the purchase for an FM1002 frame! I look forward to sharing more about the build, and how everything works out!

Thank you everyone for sharing feedback.

Crankydad

Quote from: stoveham on July 06, 2023, 11:19:11 PM
Howdy! After having the FM1003 for a while I am still very happy with the bike - it would definitely handle the features you are talking about. A couple of things to keep in mind, though - there's no water bottle mount on the FM 1003. I just leave my bottle at the bottom of the lift at the park, or use a frame bag and a soft water bottle when I'm out on the trails.

The 1003 is alot of travel for a daily driver - unless your daily rides are typically long climbs followed by long descents with big features. If your rides are a general mix - the 1002 would be a better all around option.

That being said, the 1003 is a ton of fun, and pedals well for a 180mm sled. I'm currently running it with a 190mm Zeb and using it as a pedalable park bike. Its overkill for 90% of what I do but I really enjoy taking it out.

The only issues I've had are the poor paint job, sneaky linkage hardware loosening (even with locktite...part of the pre ride ritual is torquing everything up) and missing a real water bottle.

Hope that helps!

Stoveham thanks so much! This helps! I feel like the 1002 is the better option for me, I do a general mix of everything including sometimes some steeper climbing. But I do enjoy taking bike to bike park and doing medium to large jumps, going down technical terrain, and taking longer descents.

Good point about no water bottle cage and about sneaky linkage hardware loosening. I will definitely keep in mind.

Thank you!

Crankydad

Quote from: Boybiskit on June 26, 2023, 01:03:22 AM
I would recommend the 1002. It's almost exactly a year since we built a 1002 with a 170mm Fox 36 for my son. He has been absolutely hammering it and no problems at all with the frame. He rides everything from big day rides to Whistler park on it. I've ridden it a couple of times just to get a feel for it and really like it.

I would recommend having a careful think about size through. I am 178cm and would be right on the line between medium and large. Personally I'd be tempted to go medium because I think the reach on some bikes is now too long, but it really just depends on what you prefer.

See if you can negotiate a discount. When I looked at Carbonda recently for another build they were a little more expensive than some other options.

Thank you Boybiskit! I really appreciate you sharing your experience. Good to know even on big park days like Whistler it can handle it. Will look into sizing again.

Crankydad

Full Carbon Alchemist: How is your build going so far with the FM1003?

I've been following this thread alot, and I'm very interested in purchasing the FM1003 or the FM1002. Currently I have an ICAN P1 trail frame from 2021 that I built up, and I'm needing more of an enduro frame that can handle days at the bike park with large jumps and a bike that still pedals efficiently since I plan on using it at my local trails which require a good amount of pedaling up to the top.

My type of riding now consists of bike park days (medium large jumps, descending small section of techy medium sized roots, berms, climbing). At my local trails, I usually do 50% pedaling up (50% descending), 3-4 ft drops, medium sized jumps, rock gardens, sections of sand and loose rocks.

I'd like this next bike purchase to be my daily driver bike. I go biking about 1x/week, but sometimes I'm able to squeeze 2x/week.

Please let me know if anyone can share their recommendation on should I buy the FM1003 bike or FM1002 bike or just any positive or negative experience so far with your FM1003.

Thank you!

Crankydad

Update as of June 26th 2023:

I've had approximate 48 rides and 500 miles on the ICAN P1 2021 bike so far. Bike has held up pretty well. I've finally have taken it to the bike park here in Southern CA earlier this month! My bike setup is 135mm rear shock travel and 150mm fork travel. It was a good time at the bike park! The flowy trails, the medium berms, the ladder bridges, the jumps, it felt like I was at the Disneyland of Mountain Biking! I definitely want to try and get back up there again. The green and blue trails were fun because the trails would wind around, and there are some techy ladder bridges. The black diamond advanced trails has some medium sized jumps that the bike handled just OK. I felt like I was almost bottoming out in my suspension and the landing felt a slight harsh. On double black expert trails with large jumps (which I did not fully clear, I'm still progressing on jumps. I didn't go as fast as I would want since still I'm still fearful and learning. I would ride up at a moderate speed and jump and either land onto the side of the trail, or would land in the middle of the table top before the sloped landing area). The landing felt real harsh, and in my opinion, I definitely needed more travel than my 135mm rear shock and 150mm fork. I demoed an Intense Tracer 29 (which had 160mm rear travel and 170mm fork travel), it felt so much more plush on the landing and I felt 10x more confident riding the jumps and the features.

Further, a minor item I had with the bike is the rear thru axle. I take out the thru axle every time I clean the bike, or want to service the bike, it's maybe 1-2x/month. One item that came up is that the top head of the thru axle which takes I believe a 8mm hex wrench has started to strip. I ended up stripping it so badly that the thru axle wouldn't turn anymore so I reached out to ICAN and they actually sent me a new thru axle. Which was great! Took about 1-2 weeks to receive it. But I was happy they did that, and luckily it was still under the 2 year warranty.

Moreover, regarding a minor rear thru axle item on the bike I've had trouble with. When I push the rear through axle through the frame, into the hub of the wheel, and then try to fasten into the thread on opposite side of the frame, sometimes the thru axle wouldn't catch on the thread. The thru axle would keep turning, but wouldn't fasten into the frame. It would work sometimes, and sometimes it would not. Eventually it stopped fastening all together. So I removed the derailleur hangar, and wanted to replace the derailleur hangar that ICAN provided with the bike during purchase. I tested the thru axle outside of the bike with that derailleur hangar, and it fastened perfectly.

Now, when I tried removing the flathead derailleur hangar fasteners (there's 2 fasteners needed to mount derailleur hangar to inside of the frame), I remembered I overtightened one of those small fasteners previously from a different time I removed the rear wheel. When I tried unfastening that overtightened screw, it wouldn't turn and I ended up stripping that tiny derailleur hangar screw. I've had trouble the last 3 weeks trying to remove it. I've tried 3 different methods with trying to remove the screw. #1) Using a stripped screw extractor, putting glue onto head of screw first and then hammering the extractor to the head of screw, and then using the drill bit extractor to unfasten. that did not work.

#2) I tried using the stripped screw extractor on the other side of the screw trying to unfasten at the bottom of the screw compared to the top since the bottom of screw is exposed on the outside of the frame. That didn't work. The screw is just too small.

#3) I tried using a wrench/pliers to untighten the nut of that tiny derailleur hanger screw, and that did not work.

It's been frustrating. To this day, the stripped screw is still in the frame.

What I'm about to say right now may not make sense, but I was actually able to remove the derailleur hangar, the nut of that stripped screw, what it does is actually pinch the derailleur hangar into the frame. The other flathead derailleur hangar fastener is the one that actually fastens into the derailleur hangar itself. That screw is fine, and I'm able to remove that one.

So I was able to put new derailleur hangar on the bike, I slid the derailleur hangar into the small space where that stripped screw and nut pinch it, I had to use plastic mallet to force it a little into that small space where it gets pinched, and then was able to fasten the other fastener of the derailleur hangar into the frame and into the derailleur hangar itself.

Further, I'm now still able to ride the bike.

That's all for now.

Thanks!

Crankydad

Hi everyone,

I'm highly considering purchasing the Carbonda FM1002. I'm been reading this thread as well as the FM1003 thread too to get comparison. I  want to get an update from everyone on how their experience with their FM1002 has been so far. My takeaway from the FM1003 thread has been that it's more for gnarlier terrain and can almost be considered downhill bike because of its weight and geo compared to the FM1002. And that the FM1002 can almost be considered a trail bike compared to FM1003. I might have got that from FullCarbonAlchemist, I know he's  a big proponent of FM1002.

I'm searching for an enduro bike to take to bike park and do jumps, handle tech terrain (3-4 ft drops, rock gardens), and still be a descent climber.

Right now, I'm currently riding an ICAN P1 size medium I've had for about 2 years now. I'm 178cm tall. The geo on the ICAN I feel is outdated, 68.5 degree headtube angle, 448mm reach, 1170mm wheelbase. I've demoed the YT Capra in large and Intense Tracer 29 in Large, and it feels so much more comfortable and I feel more confident riding tech terrain and jumps on it.

Please let me know what your experience has been with the FM1002? Would you purchase it again today? And any tips or things to be considered before purchasing?

I'm in conversation with Katie at Carbonda and close to buying it.

Thanks!

Crankydad

How is the P9 bike so far? Still riding it?

I have the Ican P1, and am considering purchasing the P9 frame.

Just wondering what your thoughts on P9 are so far

-Crankydad

@elgaucher

Hey just came across your post! I've build a P1 myself as well last year.

Thanks for sharing yours and your GFs build!

I'm planning on removing pivot bearings to grease them up as well

What bearing puller do you use or recommend?

Thanks!

-Crankydad

I've done about 35 rides on it with about 375 miles for about 1 year

I've enjoyed it very much so far! Previous to this bike, I rode a 29'er hardtail. The biggest difference I notice when riding over rough trails (chattery trail conditions) is that on hardtail it feels so uncomfortable and chattery, compared to riding this P1 full suspension bike that immediately disappears! So awesome, it's like I don't want to go back to riding hardtail anymore. Also, another difference I notice compared to riding 29'er hardtail, and riding this bike because it's 27.5'', I feel less fearful of descending technical terrain because I just feel more planted to the ground because of smaller wheel size and lower bottom bracket height. I have much more confidence, and don't have the fear of going over the bars as much

Ride quality has been excellent. The type of features I ride include climbing over some roots about 1ft or less in height, descending small to medium rock terrain, small drops 2ft or less, ramp/rock drops (about 3ft-4ft drops), small to medium sized jumps. I have not taken it to the bike park but been wanting to take it there as I've never been! I've just been able to do so much more riding this trail bike and love trying out new features I wouldn't have otherwise.

Durability has been impressive. Nothing to note here. I'd like to try it out at the bike park, and can report back when I'm able to get out there

Hope this helps!

-Crankydad

I can offer you my experience with the ICAN P1 which I ride as a trail bike. Regarding Ican P9, per ICAN it's considered their enduro bike. That may fit your needs compared to the P1. If I were to do it all over again, I would've gone with the P9. More updated geo, and also the P9 is compatible with metric sized shocks (newer type of rear shock sizing since 2017) and piggy-back reservoir shocks. For the P1 frame there isn't enough space for a piggyback reservoir shock once it's fully compressed. Just has compatibility for more up modern shocks

My ICAN P1 frame is a medium, I have a 150mm fork (44mm offset), and a 135mm rear shock. I have 27.5'' wheels and 170mm cranks on there. I've done about 35 rides on it with about 375 miles on it.

The type of features I ride include climbing over some roots about 1ft or less in height, small drops 2ft or less, ramp/rock drops (about 3ft-4ft drops), small to medium sized jumps. I have not taken it to the bike park, but been wanting to take it there as I've never been! I used to ride an XC bike, and just got the ICAN P1 trail last July 2021. From my experience so far, the bottom bracket height hasn't really been much of an issue. One part I remember where you'll definitely have pedal strike is climbing over 1ft high tree roots. I remember I would have to time my pedal stroke just right and lift my back wheel to avoid pedal striking the root. If you were to pedal over it, you'll definitely strike pedal on root

Overall, I've have so much joy with my ICAN P1 frame on the 27.5'' wheels and I definitely felt like it was worth the purchase for me thus far! And it's just been about 1 year since purchase

Hope this helps!