Do you know if there is a straight seatpost for this frame? Seatpost without backset?

Answering your previous question, your test is useless, makes no sense joining by hand fork or chainstays, been riding this thing for 1 year, no issues and on roads with a lot of potholes. you can by a seatpost without setback, just order the frame without a seatpost.

Wish I´d seen your post before, I really recommend some other fork for two reasons, one SID is extremely harsh and 100% leaves this bike very prone to pedal hits. I know this may sound crazy but I´m running 130 and I´m much more happy with the bike. Still great on climbs but just less pedal hits

Wanted to say thank you to all who contributed to this thread as it was invaluable in the first FS build for me. Have only ridden FM936 few times but it feels night and day against my aluminum HT. It did end up half a kilo heavier than expected, but 11.2kg with pedals, power meter, bottle and garmin mounts for size XL seems competitive weight for 3.8k euro. Very glad to have found this forum. Hope everyone has a great summer on their bikes.

 

Can someone explain where I can get the link to turn the FM936 to 120MM? And which shock leght would work?

I have seen a lot of german speaking foruns talking about but the translation had me lost.

Thank you everyone for the replies. More helpful than Velobuild who haven't replied!

I will take it to a local bike shop and have them face the mount.

I did try some cup and cone washers, they allowed clearance but the caliper sits quite high which reduces contact with the pads.

had this on one of their forks, they actually shipped a second fork and had the same issue, mechanic had to make new holes use helicoil

Yes, you can type cervelo r5 frame in aliexpress and find such frames right away (1st i found was from the store "high quality carbon frameset store". Not exactly a confidence inspiring name). Then as you navigate among replicas (the SL7 being omnipresent), you'll see various postings or model options within a posting labelled only as "r5", which is what you're after. My issue is all these sellers seem to have very limited track record, if any at all.

Btw, the Tan Tan FM639 looks pretty similar without being a fake, doesnt it?

I would never buy a direct knockoff, was thinking more of a close copy like the Tantan, it looks brilliant never seen posted on the forum before. Thanks

Might consider buying since locally SRAM is more expensive, just wonder if it would work with Sram K7/Cranks/Chain because I wanted to go 10T

How is the crosscompatibility between Shimano/Sram, can this groupset work with any 12v K7 from them? Also its interesting that I could use the Shimano caliper instead of Ltwoo

1 Year review, just love the frame, specially when you get a proper stem/cap for the frame. The only thing that bothers me is the front thruaxle, why make that stupid endcap and not just make the inserts black/painted. The bike feels stiff, light and I fit just perfectly in the geometry.

It makes no sense to pay for a brand bike when you have this much quality on Velobuild.

Drilled a hole in the bottom of the BB and whenever I ride in the rain I try to leave the bike on the rear wheel so the water also drains from the rear deraileur.

Update on my 177 after about 1000km. I got the headset rubbing issue fixed, not by the replacement bearings which VB sent, but by sanding away the paint in the areas which rubbed. Not pretty, but worked. I swapped the horrible flexy handlebar for the Deda superbox stem and some Zipp alloy bars. I'm done with internal cble routing, especially on bars!

Had a bit of a problem after a long ride last week - the frame was full of water with no obvious way to drain it, and the headset bearings were grinding and making a terrible noise. I took the front end apart and the bearings are totally rusty. I don't have spare hoses and cables to be able to swap them right now so just greased as best I can, and reassembled.

Has anyone else had issues with water ingress? I'd like to drill a hole in the bottom of the BB shell, but this seems like a perfect way to start a crack.

Current build:


Previously (same wall!):