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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-099 Build Questions
« on: January 12, 2022, 06:17:36 AM »
Quote from: J-S-Q on January 08, 2022, 04:51:20 PM
more the fact that the tyre partially unseats from the rim when I deflate the tyre.

When you inflated the tyres, did you hear the pops from the tyre beads sitting in the rim? I used a compressor to inflate mine and that was nerve racking when you first hear the pop for the first time.

I had a couple of issues with mine, but that was due to a rookie mistake and easily fixed.

1. Not enough rim tape. One tyre had one revolution of rim tape and had no issues, but the other one did so I just doubled up on both and it's been solid since.

From the attachment below, it looks like you got a matte black frame? Hope you have fun with the build!


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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: December 30, 2021, 07:14:22 PM »
Quote from: Snacks on December 30, 2021, 07:03:49 PM
with some carbon paste , i torqued it to 6nm and its held up with no issues for about 3k miles now


Thanks Snacks! Any reasons why you didn't go close to the 12Nm as outlined on the wedge clamp?

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: December 30, 2021, 06:12:00 PM »
Quote from: hazzer19 on December 30, 2021, 02:06:35 PM
Yes I asked Velobuild directly and they said 5.5 Nm for the side bolts which are in A in your diagram and then said 6 Nm for the "top cap lock head sets". I'm not sure if this refers to only the top cap or the internal plug as well


Thanks for the confirmation Hazzer19.
I'm guessing the 6Nm they meant for the "top cap lock head sets" is pretty much the headset plug as the top cap headset drives the plugs. I'll stick to that and hope for the best..  ;D

In regards to your seat post wedge, assuming with carbon paste, what torque value did you use on yours? 

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: December 30, 2021, 05:59:42 PM »
Quote from: FHS on December 30, 2021, 01:15:07 PM
Yeah, that's the headset I use. Iirc, I torque mine to around 4 or 5nm. I beleive 6 is the max.

Thanks for that FHS!

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: December 29, 2021, 07:43:32 PM »
Quote from: hazzer19 on December 29, 2021, 02:55:11 PM
Per VeloBuild these should be adjusted to 5.5Nm

Thanks Hazzer19, just confirming that both values A and values B has a torque recommendation of 5.5NM? I'm just double checking just in case there is a misunderstanding and is this documented somewhere or was that communicated directly to you by Velobuild?

Also, is the seat post wedge really 12NM for the VB099? Only concern is over tightening it.. :)
 
I have yet to get a response from them and it's been over 4 days now..

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: December 29, 2021, 12:11:32 AM »
Quote from: FHS on December 28, 2021, 11:11:15 AM
I use the FSA ACR headset. The stock headset cover works fine with it.

Just confirming that this is the FSA ACR Headset you are referring to https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr  ?

Also, do you happen to know the torque value in the attached image? I have sent an email to Velobuild and have yet to receive a response....

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: December 26, 2021, 04:48:16 AM »
Quote from: zaphodbeeblebrox on December 15, 2021, 03:10:51 PM
Sorry late reply, hopefully you got it by now anyways. I ended up using zip ties to to squish all the cables together as close as possible. Then squish them into the compression ring opening, and squish down the ring, while snipping the ties off as I got lower. Worked perfectly for me, although I had to do it twice. After the first time it popped out again, and I discovered the compression ring isn't tall enough for the headset cover to push down on it with sufficient force. So I ended up using a mtb bottom bracket ring spacer, with a cut in it so I could get it around the steerer tube. Then squished everything down again and it's been solid ever since. The spacer is about a .5 to 1mm too tall, but it was all I had and the gap isn't noticeable.

Velovelo has a good point too, I did not consider it haha. My handlebar size is a little too long for me because of it even with the seat slammed forward. If the handlebar routing wasn't so annoying I'd probably get a new one, but not worth it for now.


Thanks zaphodbeeblebrox..  I was able to get around the compression ring and just had to be patient and use a bit of strength on the fingers to push it down to sit it properly when the cables are aligned.. I do wonder why they provided that compression ring and not another type as it's so finnicky and a pain in the ass..!

On another note,

Has anyone used a different headset for the VB-099 on the frame and would recommend one?

Also, does anyone have the torque values for:
1. The compression plug for the headset that came with HB-011 bars?
2. The two bolts for the HB-011 bars http://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing-300?

I have looked on the packaging that was sent out, along with compression plug and bars and there are no torque values stated on the product. TIA!





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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Internal cable routing problem
« on: December 09, 2021, 04:14:03 AM »
Quote from: Ogi22 on November 30, 2021, 03:40:21 PM
Yea sorry i will made in normal posittion... front brake, front shifter on left...

Have you completed your builds and your cable runs?
What was your final setup? Front brake and front derealluier on the left and Rear brake and Rear derealluier on the right? ?

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: December 09, 2021, 04:11:08 AM »
Quote from: zaphodbeeblebrox on September 29, 2021, 07:47:05 PM

After finally getting everything together, the semi-circle crown race thing that keeps the steerer tube centered seems to have popped off. Another problem with the handlebars is because of the tiny opening the housing comes out at an inconvenient angle and it's incredibly difficult to get the cables going to the right places in the headtube, and to get that crown race pressed down.

Also the headset compression plug they sent was cross threaded and doesn't work correctly. Luckily I had a leftover one I didn't use from my earlier builds.


Do you have any tips for getting that compression ring pressed down? Getting all the cables to align to fit in that tiny section has been an on going challenge for me, which I have given up for now... Still trying to figure out what the best way as I had so much troubles with it.

I initially had the HB011 bars and headset installed, but when I was turning left, there would be a "click" sound coming from the headset, which I believe was the either the front brake / front derailluer cables was hitting the inside of the frame.

It's been fun and challenging at times..


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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: November 01, 2021, 06:10:31 AM »
Ahhh fair enough, thanks for the clarification. :)

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: November 01, 2021, 04:18:11 AM »
Quote from: adriaanm on November 01, 2021, 01:29:28 AM
Bearing do come in sizes that are 0.1mm different. My generic headset used 52mm bearings. The top bearing was super tight and I broke it the same way you did :-) Then I bought a Ritchey headset and the bearings were 51.8/51.9 (top/bottom). They slid right in.


So I guess I wasn't the only one that had issues with my top bearings, so I feel much better now..  :D. I'm guessing you have the same frame and ended up buying the new headset, were the inner and outer angles 45/45 degrees or 36/45 ?

I'm looking to buy new headset bearings from here https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32991982476.html?algo_exp_id=be3dbb5a-973b-4573-97d0-1c621e580a8e-0&algo_pvid=be3dbb5a-973b-4573-97d0-1c621e580a8e&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2266880025677%22%7D&spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7993450btvj3Pz&af=1011943&afref=&cv=47843&dp=4e67870165b5b1c932cb60b098189d7f&mall_affr=pr3&utm_campaign=1011943&utm_content=47843&utm_medium=cpa&utm_source=admitad&aff_fcid=6617341363a041c29cf8107688ac888e-1635715984986-06277-_ePNSNV&aff_fsk=_ePNSNV&aff_platform=portals-tool&sk=_ePNSNV&aff_trace_key=6617341363a041c29cf8107688ac888e-1635715984986-06277-_ePNSNV&terminal_id=0de686744d79417dba06dd96895df1f7


It seems like Options Q and R are similar to T and T1, with the width being the difference (8mm vs 7mm)..

Which would be recommended for this frame? The Q and R or the Ts or even the U?  Too many choices that are slightly different.  :-\



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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: October 31, 2021, 11:51:53 PM »
Quote from: zaphodbeeblebrox on October 31, 2021, 08:48:03 PM
It was a pretty tight fit for me, but I was able to press it in with just my hands/fingers.

Thanks for that, maybe I'll just put some force onto it with my weak hands  : ;)

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: October 30, 2021, 06:43:19 PM »
Quote from: renrew on October 30, 2021, 09:05:11 AM
Hi,
you can order this from Aliexpress. I have now put 2mm in between. There is a lot, so you have a crack. Probably 1.5 mm is enough.

https://de.aliexpress.com/item/33056428213.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3f864c4d5ooMFw

Thanks alot renrew for this and the message below.. that has helped me as I would have to ensure that I have those spacers before I can proceed further with the builds!

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
« on: October 30, 2021, 06:49:04 AM »
Did any of you guys have any issues with the top bearings sitting on the head tube during your builds? I noticed in all the videos that I saw, the top bearings was meant to be easily fitted on before the compress rings and head spaces.

I mock/dry fitted my frame today and had struggled with the top bearing, but eventually it did with some eventual force. This meant taking it off was so difficult, that I had to use a screw driver to push it out from the bottom and somehow pushed inner case with bearings out, instead of the outer casing which was still stick in the frame. Eventually with a longer screw driver, I was able to tap it out of the frame... :-X..

As far as I know, the top and bearings were the same size and it looks like the head tube of the frame is not as concentric as I didn't have the same issue with bottom bearings with the bottom of the head tube.

Now I have to search for another top bearing for the build to continue, so do guys have any suggestions? Thanks.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: October 30, 2021, 12:39:02 AM »
Quote from: renrew on August 23, 2021, 10:46:43 AM
ou can't really do anything wrong the whole thing is relatively simple and can be solved with an intermediate spacer ring ...
therefore the question was whether I am too stupid :-\




Hi Renrew,
 
I too have this question... I'm currently building the VB-099 with the HB-11 which I took delivery over two months ago. I'm currently dry fitting everything to ensure I that I don't screw anything up.. ;D

Did you end up putting additional micro spacers between the compression ring and the head set covers? If so, how many?
Did it have any impact on your (4??) internal cables for routing?


I'm guessing the micro spacer is meant to create a buffer from the compression ring and the headset cover so it does not touch the headtube on the frame? Maybe I didn't look hard enough or understood it before, but this was the first thread that I saw mentioned this issue for the velobuilds.

TIA!

 




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