I would look for lower BB drop and even more length at this size. The chainstay is also a bit on the longer side, and ideally the frame moves both wheels forward.

It appears looking at the geometry chart they are measuring the BB drop from the wheel axles to the top of the bottom bracket. Rather than the center.

This is the only reasoning I can think of why a frame in 2026 would have measly a 67mm BB drop. That or Rinasclta is using auto-cad engineers who've never ridden a bike before. Or have access to the internet.

I'm kind of baffled why in 2026 geometry details like front center, wheelbase, and standover height still aren't provided as standard from every brand.

As more folks reconsider their bike fit these measurements become just as important as the good old stack and reach.

The overall wheelbases on both my Winspace T1600 Ultra and ER One are pretty short for my saddle-forward setup.

If I lived somewhere with a lot of sustained mountain descents I definitely would consider using a frame with a longer wheelbase that still allows me to get fairly low on the front end as my primary bike.

The current Polygon Helios-A, and even a sized up Canyon Aeroad come to mind. Shame the Factor One is both ugly and expensive.

I will never forget reading a long-winded thing about why midfoot cleats might be interesting--and it came down to "you walk up stairs not on your forefoot but evenly with your whole foot, which = midfoot loading. Not only does that not make sense, but I also walked stairs for like 30 minutes trying to figure out how Steve would have come to that conclusion and decided it had to be that he has never paid attention when walking a staircase barefoot and made assumptions based on how a typical sneaker (not running shoe) supports a foot, which is not the same thing as how loads are managed by the foot.

  I was just mansplaining to my wife earlier this week about my new bike fit. She's not a cyclist. So the stairs analogy was the best I could think of to explain it to her. Hilarious in retrospect.

We live on the 3rd floor. And I used to experience minor fatigue just below my left knee when walking up stairs after 2-3 hour rides. In regular shoes that is. But since moving my cleats back that discomfort and post fatigue has completely disappeared.

I'm learning that all of this is really about stability through the entire stack.

Visually my overall bike fit is quite unorthodox. Some would say even retarded. But even when I don't address the handful of disagreeable comments or feel the need to publicly defend my approach, it doesn't mean I'm not taking the criticism into consideration. Because there could be some grains of truth to evaluate later. I'm not infallible. It's what pushed me to demo a size 58 bike for a few months over my typical size 56.

@patliean1:
How do you approach the whole cleat shim/wedge height topic? How do you determine how much shim height u actually need? trial and error?
And has your own leg-length discrepancy ever been measured conclusively?

I assume that a discrepancy originating in the femur would have a different impact on bike fit than one originating in the tibia. Is that correct, or am I overthinking this?

I had full tear achilles tendon surgery on my right leg in 2019 from playing basketball. Part of my rehabilitation and full recovery was low impact sports, in which my doctor recommended cycling. Literally picked up a road bike and never touched a basketball again.
Anyway, My RUTUL fitter last year confirmed that my same right leg was shorter than the other. Could be from the surgery or just a natural discrepancy. Either way I just went conservative with 3mm of shim. Seems to be the sweet spot after trail and error. I can look at photos at myself standing and tell that one leg is shorter than the other.

I had a chat with the AI on seat position optimization and received the same suggestions as you did (lower saddle height, move saddle forward) but also to tilt the saddle by -1,5 to -2,5 degree. Did you take this into consideration?

I run Selle Italia SLR S3 saddles on all of my bikes. Basically I make sure the flat or front half of the saddle is level to ground. But if you were to measure across the entire length of the saddle then yeah it's probably about 2-2.5 derees overall.

Spend time in any Reddit Bike Fitter thread and you'll see that not even two professional fitters can agree. So I chuckle when folks speak in absolute terms about another rider's fit. Perhaps they are plenty comfortable and are still achieving the results they're looking for.

A few caveats before I get started:

1. My approach to overhauling my bike fit was completely janky and unprofessional. It took 4-5 weeks of frustratingly making small adjustments to finally land on a setup that felt like "Hey I think we are finally on to something..." -  I would not recommend doing this without a professional bike fitter unless you plan to go full idiot mode like myself. There's gonna be days where everything just feels completely wrong. From a time wasted perspective it would have been cheaper to just go see a fitter.

2. Regardless of how I look on the bike from an outsider's perspective, how actually feel on the bike now has been night and day. I expect folks to have a strong opinion against all of this. And that's totally cool. There's always room to learn.

My starting point was based on @hubba @Sakizashi @Dark17 advice from earlier in this thread. In fact, I read Steve Hogg/Brian Mcguigan blog as was recommended. What a fantastic deep dive. The blog post really gave me the foundation and logic to methodically change stuff around. Even if I wasn't perfect.

What did I change?
-Moved my cleats back about 8-10mm. Where the ball of foot is rather than in front of it. 
-Moved my saddle forward around 8-10mm
-Lowered my saddle about 2mm
-Kept the cleat shim on my right leg (leg discrepency)
-Removed my insole wedges from each shoe. (Originally due to foot pronation)

What were the effects?
-Smoother pedal delivery and higher cadence in Zone 3 and above.
-Significantly improved power delivery
-Increased foot stability
-No more occasional or random foot hot spots
-No more inner thighs rubbing the top tube or seatpost
-Hip angle more open
-Sit bones FINALLY sitting sqaure and stable on the saddle. On the exact part of the saddle where the sit bones are supposed to sit. Not the nose   

Overall I'm about 90-95% satisfied with my results. Somehow all of this also fixed my foot pronation issues without needing my insole wedges anymore. Including no more "jumper's knee" fatigue on my left leg from being a one-foot jumper in college - Perhaps having more foot and hip stability improved everything up the stack. Could small tweaks be made? Of course. But being able to feel super planted and stable now on 4-5 hour rides without any small hiccups appearing around hour 3 has been splendid. I really want to thank everyone in here for your help.

Have a great weekend.

Their available handlebar options are not great (max stem 110mm, minimum width 40cm). What other handlebars would you guys consider running?
I'm trying to get 130mm/36cm ideally with some flare.

I just received my new Graro gravel frame from ICAN. And yes, the available handlebar sizes are absolutely atrocious. I'm gonna have to get creative and use my own separate handlebar stem combo.

I sent Microck

Wait...how do you pronounce this brand??