In addition to the type of carbon, there are some slight differences in the geometry (some of which could have to do with a 100mm vs 120mm travel fork) and quoted weight between the two frames (Mira and Lexon) as well. 

It appears Lexon has a new XC / Downcountry bike - Lexon Flyer.  It has 120 front and rear travel, 66.4 HTA and a 74.2 seat tube angle.

Quote from: marq3z on January 11, 2023, 01:56:22 AM
anybody knows where can i purchase this screw set? yesterday mine was broken 
i've write to ali shop where bought the frame and they will send a new one but i think that it is not a good quality screw and i wanna change them for another better

Any luck with the replacement bolts?  I sheared a bolt in the linkage and destroyed another bearing.  I'm not sure what is going on, cheap bolts that break, perhaps I don't have enough air in my shock or the rear triangle alignment is off and causing weird bearing wear, but I've got had 3 bearings in the same location go completely bad.  I had just checked the linkage and bearings a month ago (maybe 6 -10 rides total) and it was fine, then suddenly it is gone and the bolt is sheared. Based on this ongoing issue I can no longer recommend the Lexon Riot.

It took me a little while to figure out how to remove the bearings from the linkage/rocker. Here's how I did it:

First I used some penetrating oil to loosen them up a bit. 

For the wider part of the linkage I was able to get my bearing removal tool (I have the Alt / Alt press and removal tool) behind the bearing to push them out without too much trouble.

For the narrower part of the linkage, one of the bearings inner ring was destroyed and fell out leaving the rest of the bearing stuck in place. I tapped it out with a screw driver.  For the other bearing, I started with the bearing removal tool to get some movement and push the bearing out a bit.  However, due to the design of the linkage, there wasn't enough room for the sleeve to sit on the linkage for the bearing to slide into. Therefore I put the linkage in a vice and used a socket up against the bearing, placed a carriage bolt with the head on the socket and the bolt part sticking the.opposite hole and hit the bolt a couple times with a hammer.

You didn't ask, but for the pivot bearing removal (the bearings that attaches the rear triangle to the frame), I found a YouTube video from Oz Cycle on how to make a DIY blind puller. I crafted the blind puller to remove one of the bearings and used the Alt / Alt tool to remove the other bearing (once I removed the first one).  For the blind puller I filed  two sides of a washer so I could slide it through the bearing hole (took about an hour to file it down) and slid a carriage bolt through the opposite bearing hole so that the washer was held up against the bearing inside the frame with the carriage bolt head. I placed a sleeve from the Alt tool against the outer frame with the bolt in the middle of the sleeve hole.  Then placed a couple washers on the bolt against the sleeve and three nuts on the bolt, one of the nuts was against the washer and the two others to 'lock' the bolt while I turned the single bolt to pull the bearing. Again I used some penetrating oil to help break the seal before I started turning the bolt. Not surprisingly the filed washer inside the frame 'pushing' the bearing deformed a bit but it did the job.

As for the replacement bearings for the linkage I purchased FAG bearings. For the the shock and pivot bearings I used Enduro Max, they are easier to source as my local bike shops carry them.

It wasn't that difficult, just took some time to figure it out how to do it.  Good luck!

More updates....I would strongly encourage replacing all of the suspension bearings, the ones provided are terrible and don't last.  I just replaced the bearings that came with my replacement rocker I received last November. Two of them are already trashed and the other 2 bearings are already showing signs of deterioration (I already had replaced the suspension bearings closest to front of the bike when I did the rocker replacement at the end of last year and they are fine). It's not like I have done a ton of riding in the winter months, maybe 15 rides total.

Also, no grease was used by Lexon to install any of the bearings. 

The only ones that seem to be in good shape are the headset bearings, at this point I have replaced all others within the first 15 months of building my Lexon Riot.

looks nice

Wanted to provide an update on the rocker issue.  I received a replacement rocker and bolts with new bearings in place from the Official Lexon Store, the total fee including shipping was $30 usd. I ended up taking the bike and the replacement parts to my LBS as I could not figure out how to remove the stuck bolts - the shock bolts that is towards the front of the bike and the silver rocker bolt.  LBS got the shock bolt off no problem, the silver rocker bolt would not move, I watched as they tried hammering it through with no success.  Ultimately the LBS cut the bolt to remove the shock. 

Takeaways:
The bike shop recommended using anti-seize on the rocker bolt to keep it from getting stuck again.

They didn't seem to concerned with the new bearings provided and told me to use them until they need replacing (which I'll watch closely).

The Lexon store was helpful and quick to send the replacements parts at a fair price.  Although one of the bolt heads was the wrong one, they are sending a replacement and I just needed to cover a small shipping fee of 10 cents.  The LBS was able to use the original bolt head for the repair but I wanted a replacement should I need it for a future repair.  Besides I already had paid for it.

I'm not completely sold that hiding everything inside the frame is always the best idea.  While internal cable routing is nice and clean, it does make servicing your bike a bit of a PIA (i.e. dropping the rear triangle for bearing service with internally routed brake line and derailleur cable).  Now we are seeing shocks inside of frames. 

A friend has the Scott Spark, it is an absolutely beautiful bike, but while riding and unbeknownst to him the access cover to the shock fell off. The bike shop where he purchased it from was unable to get a replacement from Scott (maybe this has changed and Scott now offers replacement covers as it has been awhile since I've seen him).  The shop just ended up covering the access hole with tape. While this isn't a game changer per se, but if Scott has some detail issues with the Spark, I can't help but think of the underlying issues there may be with the Spirit.  Just my two cents...

Good idea to replace the bearings, I used the original bearings and after 9 months of riding several have seized/failed and I've got the same issue with the mounting & rocker bolt stuck in the linkage.  The Lexon Official Store has been helpful and gets kudos for working with me to ship me new linkage with all new bolts for a small fee ($30). 

Everyjoy the AilExpress Store I made my original Lexon frame purchase with did not respond to any of my inquiries on getting replacement, it appears they no longer sell Lexon frames so maybe that has something to do with it.  Regardless after 3 attempts with Everjoy Inc. I reached out to the Official Lexon store and got an immediate response.

The tricky part will be removing the linkage from the frame, the front pivot bolt is stuck and won't back out all of the way, leaving me to either drill or cut it out (unless somebody can recommend a better way). While disappointing, this and one of the rivnuts needing to be tightened have been the only issues I've had with the Lexon Riot. I'll provide an update when I get the replacement parts. 

I purchased the Lexon Riot frame with Rockshox Monarch shock about a year ago and  I have no complaints.  You can see several posts I made within the Riot subject.  Good Luck!

Enter

Remember, eating dirt can be hazardous to your health.

Happy with my Riot, I purchased the matte black with the rear shock, RS Monarch. I'm running 120mm RS Reba fork but thinking about upgrading to a SID.  The bike climbs and handles well, when I get on it I want to pedal it fast as an XC bike should feel. The frame quality is good, I had no problem running any of the cables (I did use the Jagwire foam kit so I wouldn't have cable rattle) and I wrapped the frame with Ride Wrap before I started installing any components.  The only issue I've had was with one of the bottle cage rivnuts, it wasn't secured to the frame well.  It was an easy enough fix after watching a couple YT videos.

Got it, I was a little slow on the uptake. it's not the BB that is the issue, it the spindle on the cranks. The Sram Dub spindle it 29mm, I guess it is just 1mm that makes the difference.  Weird, though, it has been 8 months since I did my build but I don't recall the dropper cable presenting any kind of routing issue at all.  Good luck.

Curious, what bottom bracket are you using?  I'm running Sram DUB and before that I had a GXP BB.

My dropper cable routed via the downtube and up the seat tube.  It routed relatively easily and works fine. I would not drill a hole in your frame.