It appears Lexon has a new XC / Downcountry bike - Lexon Flyer.  It has 120 front and rear travel, 66.4 HTA and a 74.2 seat tube angle.

It took me a little while to figure out how to remove the bearings from the linkage/rocker. Here's how I did it:

First I used some penetrating oil to loosen them up a bit. 

For the wider part of the linkage I was able to get my bearing removal tool (I have the Alt / Alt press and removal tool) behind the bearing to push them out without too much trouble.

For the narrower part of the linkage, one of the bearings inner ring was destroyed and fell out leaving the rest of the bearing stuck in place. I tapped it out with a screw driver.  For the other bearing, I started with the bearing removal tool to get some movement and push the bearing out a bit.  However, due to the design of the linkage, there wasn't enough room for the sleeve to sit on the linkage for the bearing to slide into. Therefore I put the linkage in a vice and used a socket up against the bearing, placed a carriage bolt with the head on the socket and the bolt part sticking the.opposite hole and hit the bolt a couple times with a hammer.

You didn't ask, but for the pivot bearing removal (the bearings that attaches the rear triangle to the frame), I found a YouTube video from Oz Cycle on how to make a DIY blind puller. I crafted the blind puller to remove one of the bearings and used the Alt / Alt tool to remove the other bearing (once I removed the first one).  For the blind puller I filed  two sides of a washer so I could slide it through the bearing hole (took about an hour to file it down) and slid a carriage bolt through the opposite bearing hole so that the washer was held up against the bearing inside the frame with the carriage bolt head. I placed a sleeve from the Alt tool against the outer frame with the bolt in the middle of the sleeve hole.  Then placed a couple washers on the bolt against the sleeve and three nuts on the bolt, one of the nuts was against the washer and the two others to 'lock' the bolt while I turned the single bolt to pull the bearing. Again I used some penetrating oil to help break the seal before I started turning the bolt. Not surprisingly the filed washer inside the frame 'pushing' the bearing deformed a bit but it did the job.

As for the replacement bearings for the linkage I purchased FAG bearings. For the the shock and pivot bearings I used Enduro Max, they are easier to source as my local bike shops carry them.

It wasn't that difficult, just took some time to figure it out how to do it.  Good luck!

looks nice

I'm not completely sold that hiding everything inside the frame is always the best idea.  While internal cable routing is nice and clean, it does make servicing your bike a bit of a PIA (i.e. dropping the rear triangle for bearing service with internally routed brake line and derailleur cable).  Now we are seeing shocks inside of frames. 

A friend has the Scott Spark, it is an absolutely beautiful bike, but while riding and unbeknownst to him the access cover to the shock fell off. The bike shop where he purchased it from was unable to get a replacement from Scott (maybe this has changed and Scott now offers replacement covers as it has been awhile since I've seen him).  The shop just ended up covering the access hole with tape. While this isn't a game changer per se, but if Scott has some detail issues with the Spark, I can't help but think of the underlying issues there may be with the Spirit.  Just my two cents...

I purchased the Lexon Riot frame with Rockshox Monarch shock about a year ago and  I have no complaints.  You can see several posts I made within the Riot subject.  Good Luck!

Happy with my Riot, I purchased the matte black with the rear shock, RS Monarch. I'm running 120mm RS Reba fork but thinking about upgrading to a SID.  The bike climbs and handles well, when I get on it I want to pedal it fast as an XC bike should feel. The frame quality is good, I had no problem running any of the cables (I did use the Jagwire foam kit so I wouldn't have cable rattle) and I wrapped the frame with Ride Wrap before I started installing any components.  The only issue I've had was with one of the bottle cage rivnuts, it wasn't secured to the frame well.  It was an easy enough fix after watching a couple YT videos.

Curious, what bottom bracket are you using?  I'm running Sram DUB and before that I had a GXP BB.