This is PETG for size checking. If I decide to move forward, I will print from PA-CF20.
But what I see now makes me understand that petg does a good job - the plastic part can be made larger. For example:

1) Original washers have more space for lubrication and a larger diameter than the bearing. And on the original links there are grease fittings that fill this system with lubricant without the need for disassembly! It makes sense to realize this beauty if you have links with grooves for large washers. But Chinese links do not have grooves and there is no place for it either. Therefore, I decided to use simple washers with a thin dust gap filled with lubricant - it will not allow moisture to easily reach the balls.

2) I just have an extra shock absorber of this size lying around "under the sofa" for a long time.

We now have meter-deep snowdrifts and a 3D printer with a lathe standing idle... 
New printed link for small 200x50 shock. work but leverage go to linear...

Finished the washers. Their thickness must be adjusted to the specific frame.
The preferred additional length of the tubes is from 0 to 0.2 mm.
In the drawings, I simply subtracted the additional width of the tubes from the thickness of the original washers.
I note that it is better to make the hole for the tube at least 0.5 mm larger than the outer diameter of the tube.
I drilled BOTH holes for the axles of the lower link to 17mm. And BOTH holes of the top link are up to 19mm.
See imgs:

Quote from: daifanshi on March 01, 2024, 10:34:22 PM
This might take a while.  Don't hold your breath. Not my bike.

I just remembered I posted a picture of the top link a year ago in reply #22 of this thread. See if it shows something.

I not see spacer tube here.

Quote from: veeTee1Pah on March 01, 2024, 01:46:52 PM
naeTech, did you add 2 spacers to the lower linkage as in the attached diagram?

Yes - in lower same situation.
Aluminum drills easily by sharp drill. The main thing is to securely fix the parts.
It seems to me that for such a progressive frame it is not particularly important whether it gives 135 or 150 strokes. This is more critical for linear frames. Branded bicycles also have bump stops and full travel can only be achieved in extreme conditions.

Can you unscrew the big axle and take a picture of the internal space between the bearings? Check if there is a spacer there?
In such manner :

Without drilling spacers not fit
(bearing spacer (what i custom) - red color, outside separate spacers - yellow)

I make spacers! Now levers works great not depend on tightening force.
Drill holes at lower link 17mm and upper link 19mm.
Spacer size for lower link 12.1x16x37.2 (+0.2 to bearing space), 12.1x16x44.2. For upper link 15.1x18.5x51.2. Why bxt not did that in stock??? (its cheap operation in industrial environment)

I use Size S frame for make measurements for linkage model. Different sizes have different lower link or differen front triangle axle positions?
If you have measurements for cascade alternate lover link (between axles) - then i make calculation for such setup
Upd: Usually inside the positive air shock chamber there is an oring 2..3 mm thick that holds the volume spacers. It also limits the stroke that can be squeezed with your hands.
I haven't fully assembled the bike yet, but it seems to me that the hand-locked suspension can be unlocked simply by sitting on top of the bike...
Those. probably this is a false alarm - there is latching, but you can only encounter it by squeezing the deflated shock with your hands)

Make a linkage model for S size frame. Indeed frame latched after 52mm of stroke (!) (with 210x55 shock)
I recommend using 210x50 shock.
Antisquat insesitive to cassette chainring. Sensitive to drive chainring - more tooth - less antisquat (at the same sag).

Do you use frame without bearing spacers or you modified links before hard using?

Where we can see pictures with cracked frames, sad faces and blood?!

Be careful with new triangle... check that m6 bolt have 120 degree champfer.

I think that no problem with this.