Remove all the bearings and either add new quality branded MTB bearings or at the very least pop the seals and top up with grease.
Thread lock all frame bolts.

I'm 5'7" with a 30" inside leg and I ride a small, there's no way I'd want a medium.

I can only just run a OneUp 120mm dropper before it bottoms out in the frame, using 165mm cranks.

Get a small.

Had my 936 for a year now and have just noticed some play in the rear end when I pick it up by the top tube, I think it's the main pivot.

I already have a full bearing kit spare.

I've never replaced frame bearings before.

Anyone got any tips or advice on how to do it and the special tools required.

Cheers.

https://www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/full-suspension-bikes/vitus-rapide-fs-crx-review

Wolfpack: Trail front, Cross rear.

My initial want was to just see what my heart rate was doing during MTB rides, with a Polar chest strap selling for £50 I revisited the idea of a Cycplus M2 cycle computer instead, it offers more stats, tracks and syncs to Strava but has no guidance ability.

I've taken the plunge and ordered one with a HRM strap, one sensor (I initially took "dual sensor" as it being one sensor able to monitor cadence AND speed but each sensor can do either cadence or speed not both). I've brought a K Edge steerer tube / in front mount separately. I'll probably use the sensor as speed as if mounted to the crank / chain stay I can't see it staying put during MTBing which is a shame as I'd like to see cadence every so often.

Awaiting its arrival.

Any other users?

PS: with the trunnion mount any manual lockout is unreachable on the fly, so if that's important to you get a remote lockout.

Hi, Anyone use a 52mm chain line Shimano crankset (7100 or 8100) with a 32t ring on their frame? Is the clearance OK @ >3mm?