Be careful about where you get KMC chains from. There are a shocking amount of fakes out there and they run/shift like absolute shit. I got a couple a few years ago and had to throw them out. DRASTIC difference between them and legit chains.

Combine that with a Goldie cassette that also has questionable tolerances and it’s not surprising you’re getting this behavior.

Personally, my experiences with both cassettes and chains have taught me to avoid saving money on these particular parts. I’ve had way too many issues with fake chains and cheap cassettes, not worth it IMO.

Yeah, it’s wise to stick to bare frames with most factory direct vendors. Way fewer potential points of complication or failure.

The frames really shouldn’t be any different in quality than branded Nukeproofs but it’s always a risk being one of the first to try building up a new unproven frame.

Hello, do you have a recommended chain guide for this type of frame? Thanks

Do you want just an upper guide or an upper guide with bash? Full lower guide seems likely to be overkill on a 150 bike…

Due to some really bad spinal issues with a ruptured disc and pinched nerves this year (bad even by the standards of someone who’s had back problems and other disabilities for decades), I haven’t been able to ride my 707. I tried a few weeks ago and immediately regretted it.

Even if I recover, I’m worried about its position — despite a short stem with rise plus riser shallow drop bars — making recurrences more likely.

My choices are sell it or do a flat bar conversion that’s as upright as possible. I’ve had trouble finding any example flat bar 707 builds or getting clear on what would be enough of a change in body position without just starting over on a purpose-specific flat bar gravel bike.

Input would be greatly appreciated.

My suggestions: make sure it’s a real trail fork with the best damper you can get, not an XC race fork and definitely not the RS “Race Day” damper which from ky own experience and many others is objectively terrible. It can make 120mm feel like 40, and yet still unsupportive in that 40.

Okay so I’m working on this right now and removing the mode converter from the extension link changed the derailleur geometry more significantly than I expected (I also changed the angle of the link a little, I don’t think it was actually sitting on the hanger’s limiter nub). It’s more tucked now instead of being so extended, and now I’m wrestling with the “end adjust bolt” — not called B-tension here — which I think was dialed in too far.

In the 11T cog (highest gear) I can now just barely get a finger between the top of the derailleur and the chainstay, which is apparently pretty close to how it’s intended to be: significantly more tucked than modern trail derailleurs.

With these changes I’ve gone from thinking my chain was too short to thinking it might actually be a little too long (for use without a tensioner, anyway). Am considering swapping the MRP G5 SL on there before making any changes to the chain length, so I can see if this turns out to be just right with a tensioner added…

Any update with some pics?  i would love to see you set up.  especially your chain guide/derailleur set up.

It’s been a crazy couple months and I haven’t found the time but I’ll try to soon. I’m about to change those things so I’ll try to get some pics posted when that’s done.