I don't know how "new" the design really is since it's a variation of nearly every light flex stay XC bike ever, but Quick's XC bike doesn't look half bad if you can live with headset routing.

Be careful about where you get KMC chains from. There are a shocking amount of fakes out there and they run/shift like absolute shit. I got a couple a few years ago and had to throw them out. DRASTIC difference between them and legit chains.

Combine that with a Goldie cassette that also has questionable tolerances and it's not surprising you're getting this behavior.

Personally, my experiences with both cassettes and chains have taught me to avoid saving money on these particular parts. I've had way too many issues with fake chains and cheap cassettes, not worth it IMO.

Quote from: girldadcyclist on March 04, 2026, 05:26:08 PM
has anyone purchased from Carbonda recently? I'm curious what the paypal address you were given to pay. I'm in discussion right now with Katie to purchase a frame and was given a very random looking paypal address to pay. Kinda threw me off a little bit. Thanks

That's normal in my experience.

The only weird thing that's happened for me with Carbonda lately is that Wing hasn't answered an email I sent a month ago about a replacement parts kit (hardware and bearings) for FM1002. I assumed at first it was due to Chinese New Year but at this point I don't think that's the only reason.

Yeah, it's wise to stick to bare frames with most factory direct vendors. Way fewer potential points of complication or failure.

The frames really shouldn't be any different in quality than branded Nukeproofs but it's always a risk being one of the first to try building up a new unproven frame.

I've always been an advocate for factory direct frames from Asia but factory direct completes are a whole different ball game. This is pretty good evidence that there are a lot of extra points of potential complication with completes, and personally I wouldn't recommend it with an organization as "new" as Quick Pro (nobody really knows how separate they are from Flybike/Carbonda).

Always let someone else be the first to tackle these learning curves because they can get pretty steep.

Quote from: kb_79 on September 23, 2025, 07:53:36 AM
Hello, do you have a recommended chain guide for this type of frame? Thanks

Do you want just an upper guide or an upper guide with bash? Full lower guide seems likely to be overkill on a 150 bike...

Tideacebike

Due to some really bad spinal issues with a ruptured disc and pinched nerves this year (bad even by the standards of someone who's had back problems and other disabilities for decades), I haven't been able to ride my 707. I tried a few weeks ago and immediately regretted it.

Even if I recover, I'm worried about its position — despite a short stem with rise plus riser shallow drop bars — making recurrences more likely.

My choices are sell it or do a flat bar conversion that's as upright as possible. I've had trouble finding any example flat bar 707 builds or getting clear on what would be enough of a change in body position without just starting over on a purpose-specific flat bar gravel bike.

Input would be greatly appreciated.

Carbonda FM1266 (aka FM1003), or one of the third party reseller/open mold versions such as the ICAN P17 or DCB F180.

It's the best bike I've ever owned. Great kinematics and jumps incredibly well. Stiff, solid and trustworthy. Personally I recommend buying it straight from Carbonda (see the dedicated thread for a couple posts about the ICAN variant), but you may save a significant amount by getting the DIY Carbon version.

My suggestions: make sure it's a real trail fork with the best damper you can get, not an XC race fork and definitely not the RS "Race Day" damper which from ky own experience and many others is objectively terrible. It can make 120mm feel like 40, and yet still unsupportive in that 40.

Considering that Rose Bikes are made by Carbonda (Flybike), you might want to inquire with them.

Okay so I'm working on this right now and removing the mode converter from the extension link changed the derailleur geometry more significantly than I expected (I also changed the angle of the link a little, I don't think it was actually sitting on the hanger's limiter nub). It's more tucked now instead of being so extended, and now I'm wrestling with the "end adjust bolt" — not called B-tension here — which I think was dialed in too far.

In the 11T cog (highest gear) I can now just barely get a finger between the top of the derailleur and the chainstay, which is apparently pretty close to how it's intended to be: significantly more tucked than modern trail derailleurs.

With these changes I've gone from thinking my chain was too short to thinking it might actually be a little too long (for use without a tensioner, anyway). Am considering swapping the MRP G5 SL on there before making any changes to the chain length, so I can see if this turns out to be just right with a tensioner added...

Quote from: jefflinde on June 30, 2025, 09:28:47 PM
Any update with some pics?  i would love to see you set up.  especially your chain guide/derailleur set up.

Also, in researching this problem (super excessive rattling/chain slap/low chain tension) I've discovered that the Saint derailleurs have a "mode converter" on the extension link that I didn't know about. Before changing chain length and installing a different guide with a tensioner pulley I'm going to make sure I have this set up right.

DH drivetrains definitely have some extra complications that I didn't understand at first! I expected some of this but it's a lot more complicated than trail bike drivetrain setup.

Quote from: jefflinde on June 30, 2025, 09:28:47 PM
Any update with some pics?  i would love to see you set up.  especially your chain guide/derailleur set up.

It's been a crazy couple months and I haven't found the time but I'll try to soon. I'm about to change those things so I'll try to get some pics posted when that's done.

Burrs, chips, messy looking spots, untrimmed sheet edges etc are pretty common in factory direct frames. It's a cost savings for them to not bother cleaning these up since they're almost entirely cosmetic. They have no structural impact 99% of the time.

Brands only have that stuff cleaned up because consumers get freaked out about rough edges and assume they are damage or defects, but virtually all frames have these to some degree unless they're actively sanded down/cleaned up by the factory at the request of a brand.