Even though electronic shifting is generally recommended for this setup, I’m still not ready to make the switch. It also looks like some of you in this thread, including the original poster (@eddietheengineer), have successfully set up mechanical shifting on this frame. Could anyone advise if full-length housing is needed for the shifting cables?

Mechanical shifting on frames with internal cable routing requires full-length cable housing

I'm happy with the RXL handlebars. They have the same geometry as 3t ergonova handlebars. Though they are light (sup200gr), they are plenty of stiff for me. I have them on 3 bikes (road, gravel). For reference: I'm 75kg and race bikes.  On a sidenote: I once bought the wrong size and as a test, I tryied to break (i.e. by smashing on the ground)-> I gave up, they were rock solid.
Search for "RXL SL 31.8mm Carbon Drop Bar Road Bicycle Handlebar" and you'll find them.

I did also order and test these handlebars, no issues with the bars at 90kg rider weight.
It is worth noting, that I found the space in the drops quite short (shorter than on other handlebars).
It probably helps weight saving (186g at 42cm c-c), but I found adjusting and riding the handlebars hard due to the drops and finally swapped them out.

Heads up with customer service experience with Magene. The larger crank bolt mechanism worked itself loose recently on my pes505 (which from what I gather is not all that uncommon). I contacted Magene and they said they would replace it but I'm being charged $30 USD for shipping for that small part. I find it hard to believe that it costs that much to ship something so small, given most stuff that size ships free from China to Canada.
I wish they were just honest and said they have to charge me for the part, even then $30usd for a bolt is crazy expensive for that part. Unfortunately the thread size is different so Shimano or Senicx don't work.

Are you referring to the bolt that is used to tighten the left crank arm to the spindle before the screw is used to "fix" the crank arm? If so, two remarks:
First: I had the issue that, even I used the specified torque settings, the crank arm worked loose and I lost the bolt. Not satisfying...seems this is not uncommon?
Second: If I am not mistaken, I replaced the bolt with one I had at home - so I was under the impression that Magene uses the same bolt and thread that Shimano uses?

That is cheap indeed!

How are people buying stuff over 200 euro on AliExpress shipped to Europe? Most of the listings I see say "can't be shipped to your location". Is there a workaround?

Hi Serge, I was under the impression you were aware of Sensah, so I did not bring it up. I do agree with jonathan and I can recommend Sensah.
Running three groupsets from Sensah, a 2x11 on my trainer, a 1x11 on a "monsterbike" and a 2x12 on a Velobuild VB-R-099.
All completely mechanical, shifting not as smooth as Shimano but working fine.

Mechanical disc brakes, of course hydraulic disc brakes are superior but mechanical works (running TRP Spyre-C, Juin Tech F1 and Onirii BR-05 - recommend compressionless housing).
I have been eying their HRD for a while, pairing it with a Shimano FD and RD sounds very appealing.

No issues with shipping groupsets from AliExpress to Europe, Germany, so far and indeed prices are incl. shipping when advertised so be the seller.
Local taxes might apply, in many cases shipments pass customs without taxes (at least in my experience) because the tax declaration on the outside is...how would you call that...creative?

Got that in the mail this AM, to replace a steel & alu cassette. It died after 5000-8000km (2/3 flat, so probably 2/3 on the steel cogs), waxed chain. The smaller alu cogs started skipping a few rides ago. I think i used that cassette on my gravel bike last year (hence the 5000-8000km delta). I think i paid 45 eur for the steel & alu k7, and 70 eur for the new all steel one, so let's see if it lasts that much longer.
Weights are very similar.

@Serge_K
Is this the one sold under ZTTO or Goldix or ... on AliExpress?
Very interested to see how these hold up

Thank you for the message. It does sound inspiring that I might fit!

My apologies for this post, but there is no way you are 199cm tall and ride a 80cm middle bottom bracket to saddle top fit.
I am 195cm with 96cm inseam and run 87cm middle bottom bracket to saddle top - for sure you will end up with a similar number, if not slightly more.

The Canyon Grail is a great bike, but indeed the reach is quite long as it is designed to be ridden with a short stem.
I still believe you will struggle to find a Chinese frame, not because of the seat top & seat post length - but because of the missing stack and massive drop between saddle top and handle bar.
Selecting a frame would require to get the stack / saddle top to handle bar drop, as well.

I have a Velobuild VB-R-099 and I can confirm I am very pleased with how it rides.
Main reason I bought it: with 1,95cm height and 96cm inseam there are not a lot of Chinerframe choices unless you accept heavy saddle to bar drop.
However, and the forum is full of Velobuild, headset play and how to fix it, I struggled until it was set up properly.
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3102.msg34848.html#msg34848

Long Tenk LTK268-D, Workswell WCB-R-268, TanTan TT-X21 and Velobuild VB-R-099 are "the same" frame.
Still curious to hear from Long Tenk LTK266-D users (lighter frame, more stack, among a few other differences) - anyone?

Have you been running Sensah before? Front shifting works different than Shimano, three consecutive clicks are needed for shifting to the small ring, one large swing for shifting up.
At least for the models I am running (with Sensah front derailleur).