Does anyone know where to source the thru axle end caps?
Now that I bought new wheels I wanted to take the shitty ones out, but the front thru Axle end cap was somehow stuck and it finally broke.

UPDATE:

Chris got back to me.  They’ll be shipping out a new pair of HB010s under warranty.
The whole process was very simple.  I provided as thorough an account as possible - with some video, pictures, and ride data. They reviewed it and asked me what size bar I was.
I couldn’t be happier!  Good job Velobuild, and thank you!

I'm happy for you.
There has been too much backslash after I went public, and replace the handlebar is cheaper than a wheel.

I'm at the credit card stage, hopping to reverse the charges

UPDATE: Paypal denied the claim
Disapointed on Paypal as they tried hard to deny.
Look at the options: Seller said "car accident" (obviously not true)
Paypal said "doesn't meet 'not as described'
Paypal then swapped for "used for a long time"
Finally on the phone they said they don't cover customized items

So beware relying on Paypal for warranty backup

Due to the popular request, I'm opening a new thread on my experience with Velobuild wheels

I bought the frame VB-R-177 and they offered to customize the wheels as per my liking: Sapim CX Ray and Bitex 312, for extra $$$
The offered wheels were 50/27 tubeless, and the only 27mm are the gravel/CX.
Chris told me:  "we suggest 25-32 tires"

That was a bad idea that ended delaying the delivery of the frame and wheels: 80 days from payment to reception
The LBS assembled the bike and put the tires on (GP5000 TL with butyl tubes)

After 350Kms, in 7 short rides, all in paved roads, a catastrophic failure in the rear rim happened:
On a 10% downhill, at ~55KPH aprox, we heard like gunshot, and my rear wheel started navigating.  I was able to save it because it's a straight line descent and I was already on the brakes.

I was lucky it was the rear wheel, not the front, I was lucky it was a straight road, that I was somehow prepared to handle, and that someone with a van gave a 15km lift to the parking lot where we started the ride (otherwise, I had to wait from my clubmates to finish their ride, change  clothes, load the bikes and come in my rescue).
With a reborn feeling, I paid for the beers.

WHEEL INSPECTION
The rim blew open
You can see 2 cracks starting at the spoke nipple, one rides straight on the edge of the deep profile
The tire is in perfect condition
The rim edges in the cracked spot are scratched were probably the spot that was skidding when I was braking

WARRANTY PROCESS
Now it comes the second point: Warranty from Velobuild.  I wanted to do this privately, friendly and honestly.
I sent the first pictures taken on the parking lot to Chris and explained.

He asked for more pictures.
I sent 10 more: Both sides of the bike, with the broken wheel. A close up of the wheel with the tire. Both sides of the wheel. Removed the tire and pictures of the barcode and more closeups of the broken section.

Chris said looks like and accident, can I have the pictures of the bike as of today.
I replied, check the pictures, the bike has the broken wheel and is in mint condition, not even one scratch... not even one in the paint, handlbar, levers, saddle or pedals.
I also told him, check the photo metadata... All pictures taken in ~20 minutes

SILENCE for one week.
I followed up and Chris said "our engineer said it's accident or big impact". He offered a rim at half price.
EXCUSE ME... WHAT?  I could have died and you are asking me to pay more for a rim and then have the wheel built? That is insulting, and I have no trust on the quality of the rims

Right now I'm at paypal dispute... They said a car run over the wheel (yeah, right, and no broken or bent spokes!)

LESSONS
Couple of lessons for me, and for whoever wants to learn:
1. Check your carbon rims as often as you can. Don't take the quality for granted
2. After sales support and warranty claims with Velobuild are not smooth processes.

3. What would have happened if, for different circumstances, you had some scratches on the paint or marks on the saddle?  Doesn't the warranty count anymore?

My best guess, due to the cracks from the spoke nipple: Bad wheel construction, which is fairly probable as they don't usually work with these Sapim spokes nor Bitex hubs. That or the carbon rim is very weak

@slosada I hope this gets resolved, but I think you'd be better off starting your own thread with your experiences.

My bb86 to GXP has not creaked at all. I only have 158 miles on mine, so take that with a grain of salt if you want, but I would say its A+.

I agree with you but, since I had participated exclusively in this thread, I thought it would be good to keep all together.
But yeah, I will open a thread.

I find no pleasure claiming a warranty, less so bashing a company from which I still have the frame and parts.
Also, there must be a lesson learned for all: Don't take the quality and warranty for granted

Well their P325 CS power meter crankset was a bit of a shit show, so it wouldn't be unprecedented.

I have P35 dual from Magene and is as precise as any other (error from Shimano spider). When they wanted to overcome the Shimano limitation and released their own crankset, it was laterally flexible.
I also own their cadence and speed sensors.

What weight did you get the wheels down to?

Front wheel 742gr
Rear Wheel 880gr

So, here is my version of VB-R-177.

Order placed in January, delayed by Chinese new year, procurement of spokes and hubs and a lockdown.

Custom paint and decals by Velobuild
Wheels are also from Velobuild (50mm), but customized with sapim CX ray spokes and Bitex 312 hubs
Groupset is all Shimano 105 hydraulic, with left crank PM (Xcadey)
Both rotors are SM-RT70-SS 140mm (also Shimano 105 series)
Tires are Conti GP5000 TL
Saddle is Selle Italia Flite FM Flow manganese rails

I didn't build it. I asked the LBS to do it for me as it would have taken ages to be completed
They didn't report issues in the compression bolt, but did report misalignment in the front wheel brake caliper too, as well as they said it was the "wrong rotor".  I fixed both things:
- I flipped the caliper mount as per Shimano manual
- When aligning the caliper, I used the business card method, but also inserted a 6mm allen key between the rotor (closer to the hub) and the caliper mount, before tighten the lower screw.  The one on top I left it at 6Nm.