Does anyone know where to source the thru axle end caps?
Now that I bought new wheels I wanted to take the shitty ones out, but the front thru Axle end cap was somehow stuck and it finally broke.

Quote from: s3si1u on August 08, 2022, 01:23:30 AM
I have some thoughts swirling around in my head regarding my 177 and thought this would be a good place to vent and brainstorm I want to do a 180 change with my whole bike stable (all of 2 bikes, lol) and the 177 is at the center of it all.
It all starts here: I currently own a Velobuild 177 and an alloy Poseidon X gravel bike with a SRAM mullet setup. What I really, really want is a shiny new rim brake road bike to complement these two but I only have enough space for 2 bikes (just 1 really, I make it work), so one has to go. I really, really want to keep my 177, but also really want a versatile wider tire bike in my 2 bike stable that gives me the flexibility and some of the all-road funsies I get from a true gravel bike.
My thought process goes something like this:
1. Put gravel bike up for sale
2. Start shopping for rim brake frame or full bike (oh the possibilities )
3. convert 177 to some kind of all-road light-gravely kinda commuter cx bike thing with a 1x mullet setup and increased tire clearance
4. Purchase shiny new rim brake road bike

Now, the mullet conversion for the 177 is simple as I'm already running a SRAM 22 mashup. I would replicate what I run on the X: Apex/Rival/Force 1 derailleur with Garbaruk mod, 42 tooth chainring, 11-50 cassette, Gravelking SS tires and we're good to go. Maybe even a Ratio Technology kit and a 10-44 or 10-50 to go 12 speed. Tire clearance is the issue. I think the rear tire is not a big problem as my current tires balloon up to at least 31mm and there's maybe 4mm clearance on either side. The fork clearance is the issue, as we are all too well aware. That leads me to ask, has anyone experimented with a different fork on any of your road bikes? On a Velobuild? I'm considering seeking out a fork with a bit more tire clearance and sticking it on the 177 to fix my dilemma.  Any suggestions/advice? FWIW my Poseidon X actually has a fork that originally belonged to a Trek Checkpoint and it all works together fine, but that conversion wasn't concerning as it's gravel bike - gravel bike and all dimensions are pretty similar.
The easy thing to do would be to sell the 177 and keep the X, but I'm more attached to the 177 and would prefer to have 2 carbon bikes. What do y'all think? 35mm clearance would be sick. Time to go down the rabbit hole...any suggestions, advice, stern words of disapproval, etc. welcomed!

Not an expert here but here is an opinion:
The best option would be trying to find a fork that is compatible with 177
Thinking outside the box: An alternative (depending on crank length, and fitting in general) riding 650b
That being said, I find misleading advertising that 177 is sold as 32mm, but barely fits some 30mm tires  (this was a main selection factor for me, so I could ride light gravel come October/November)

Not sure I would buy or recommend another Velobuild to anyone.

Now, regarding a rim brake road bike.  My main concern is: When you want to buy a cheap frame, the carbon rim brake performance is abysmal at the equivalent price range.  Either you go for alloy or you spend big bucks on good carbon wheelset.

Quote from: 1Sigma on June 30, 2022, 11:34:44 PM
UPDATE:

Chris got back to me.  They'll be shipping out a new pair of HB010s under warranty.
The whole process was very simple.  I provided as thorough an account as possible - with some video, pictures, and ride data. They reviewed it and asked me what size bar I was.
I couldn't be happier!  Good job Velobuild, and thank you!

I'm happy for you.
There has been too much backslash after I went public, and replace the handlebar is cheaper than a wheel.

I'm at the credit card stage, hopping to reverse the charges

Quote from: Liter on June 23, 2022, 05:54:55 PM
Imagine if it had been the front wheel. Could the tires not been seated properly? Did you buy them on Aliexpress?

Nope and nope.
You would feel or see a bump in the tire. It had an inner tube.

Bought straight from Velobuild in the same order.  In fact, the different hub and spokes delayed the bike delivery (80 days total).

I won't use the front wheel anymore. It's the same materials and same builder.

Apart from the poor quality, what should be a concern for everyone is the abysmal after sales support... Also  Paypal won't protect you in cases of low quality and not honored warranty.

UPDATE: Paypal denied the claim
Disapointed on Paypal as they tried hard to deny.
Look at the options: Seller said "car accident" (obviously not true)
Paypal said "doesn't meet 'not as described'
Paypal then swapped for "used for a long time"
Finally on the phone they said they don't cover customized items

So beware relying on Paypal for warranty backup

Quote from: zaphodbeeblebrox on June 16, 2022, 10:07:24 PM
ehhhh your wheel does look like it's got a huge dent in it, and that crack all the way across. Not that I've seen any other carbon wheel failures to compare with. At least you made it back ok.

Why do you have tubeless tires with tubes? I guess it probably doesn't matter.

I don't see it like that: The crack starts at the spoke nipple and extends one immediately up, the other rides the deep profile edge towards the other spoke before turning up on the same side. Those cracks cannot be explained by a hit
Don't forget, after the explosion I rode on the rim, for 150 meters, while braking, so it was one flat spot in the back skidding and bouncing.

And the tube was also a surprise for me, I didn't provide it to the LBS

Due to the popular request, I'm opening a new thread on my experience with Velobuild wheels

I bought the frame VB-R-177 and they offered to customize the wheels as per my liking: Sapim CX Ray and Bitex 312, for extra $$$
The offered wheels were 50/27 tubeless, and the only 27mm are the gravel/CX.
Chris told me:  "we suggest 25-32 tires"

That was a bad idea that ended delaying the delivery of the frame and wheels: 80 days from payment to reception
The LBS assembled the bike and put the tires on (GP5000 TL with butyl tubes)

After 350Kms, in 7 short rides, all in paved roads, a catastrophic failure in the rear rim happened:
On a 10% downhill, at ~55KPH aprox, we heard like gunshot, and my rear wheel started navigating.  I was able to save it because it's a straight line descent and I was already on the brakes.

I was lucky it was the rear wheel, not the front, I was lucky it was a straight road, that I was somehow prepared to handle, and that someone with a van gave a 15km lift to the parking lot where we started the ride (otherwise, I had to wait from my clubmates to finish their ride, change  clothes, load the bikes and come in my rescue).
With a reborn feeling, I paid for the beers.

WHEEL INSPECTION
The rim blew open
You can see 2 cracks starting at the spoke nipple, one rides straight on the edge of the deep profile
The tire is in perfect condition
The rim edges in the cracked spot are scratched were probably the spot that was skidding when I was braking

WARRANTY PROCESS
Now it comes the second point: Warranty from Velobuild.  I wanted to do this privately, friendly and honestly.
I sent the first pictures taken on the parking lot to Chris and explained.

He asked for more pictures.
I sent 10 more: Both sides of the bike, with the broken wheel. A close up of the wheel with the tire. Both sides of the wheel. Removed the tire and pictures of the barcode and more closeups of the broken section.

Chris said looks like and accident, can I have the pictures of the bike as of today.
I replied, check the pictures, the bike has the broken wheel and is in mint condition, not even one scratch... not even one in the paint, handlbar, levers, saddle or pedals.
I also told him, check the photo metadata... All pictures taken in ~20 minutes

SILENCE for one week.
I followed up and Chris said "our engineer said it's accident or big impact". He offered a rim at half price.
EXCUSE ME... WHAT?  I could have died and you are asking me to pay more for a rim and then have the wheel built? That is insulting, and I have no trust on the quality of the rims

Right now I'm at paypal dispute... They said a car run over the wheel (yeah, right, and no broken or bent spokes!)

LESSONS
Couple of lessons for me, and for whoever wants to learn:
1. Check your carbon rims as often as you can. Don't take the quality for granted
2. After sales support and warranty claims with Velobuild are not smooth processes.

3. What would have happened if, for different circumstances, you had some scratches on the paint or marks on the saddle?  Doesn't the warranty count anymore?

My best guess, due to the cracks from the spoke nipple: Bad wheel construction, which is fairly probable as they don't usually work with these Sapim spokes nor Bitex hubs. That or the carbon rim is very weak

Quote from: RDY on June 16, 2022, 04:43:31 PM
You're using GP5000 TL ... are you running them with tube or tubeless?  If tubeless, 90PSI is a really bad idea and can contribute to this kind of failure.

I have/had tubes in them.
90PSI is exactly what my current weight requires, when I select "mid range tire with butyl tubes" and worn pavement. If I pick high performance casing tubeless (which GP5000 TL most likely is), it says 95.5PSI

Pressure is prob. not the reason: For once I have ridden in warmer days and for longer.  This happened after 86Kms, not at the beginning. I use 90PSI tubeless in my other bike.

Rims were ordered tubeless.

To the other poster, they are hooked.

Quote from: pearl on June 16, 2022, 02:49:31 PM
@slosada I hope this gets resolved, but I think you'd be better off starting your own thread with your experiences.

My bb86 to GXP has not creaked at all. I only have 158 miles on mine, so take that with a grain of salt if you want, but I would say its A+.

I agree with you but, since I had participated exclusively in this thread, I thought it would be good to keep all together.
But yeah, I will open a thread.

I find no pleasure claiming a warranty, less so bashing a company from which I still have the frame and parts.
Also, there must be a lesson learned for all: Don't take the quality and warranty for granted

Quote from: bamboo_mountain on April 21, 2022, 05:55:43 PM
Chris responded and said that if I agree to cancel the dispute he will send me the correct part and refund for the missing bottle cages, hopefully he follows through. Good thing I have another bike to ride in the mean time... I will probably end up making this a dedicated winter trainer bike anyways.

Thanks for this hint,
My velobuild rear wheel blew after 350Kms of asphalt, on a 10% downhill. There are cracks starting from the nipple

VB Customer support is denying any warranty, insisting in a supposed accident when the I sent pictures of the bike from both sides.

I don't trust the front wheel either, so I guess I will go down this Paypal dispute (or Credit card otherwise) tomorrow at the latest.

Quote from: RDY on June 08, 2022, 02:35:23 PM
Well their P325 CS power meter crankset was a bit of a shit show, so it wouldn't be unprecedented.

I have P35 dual from Magene and is as precise as any other (error from Shimano spider). When they wanted to overcome the Shimano limitation and released their own crankset, it was laterally flexible.
I also own their cadence and speed sensors.

I'm sorry to post this here but I can't continue enjoying my Velobuild bike since the rear wheel (not the tire) blew in a downhill at 55KPH. I managed to save it since I was already on the brakes and it was straight line.

Bike and wheels have only been used for 350Kms on asphalt (I'm around 85Kg these days, and use 90PSI)

The wheelset was also built by Velobuild, so no, I cannot recommend them

Not only I'm concerned about the front wheel that is still there and a catastrophic failure won't be as easy to handle.

WARRANTY?
Furthermore, This happened 10 days ago, I collected the pictures and send them to Velobuild, they said it was caused by an accident that never happened (the bike is in pristine condition and I sent pictures from both sides).
If you check the pictures, the cracks start at the nipples.

After 8 days and more pictures and silence radio, they don't honor any sort of warranty... They are barely offering half price on a rim (same "quality" plus I'd need to build it/get it built).

I'm bewildered: Half price of a rim vs the chances for me to die/go to the hospital.

So Velobuild, is adding to the poor rim quality or wheel construction, an abysmal after sales service.

Quote from: hazzer19 on May 03, 2022, 11:07:20 AM
What weight did you get the wheels down to?

Front wheel 742gr
Rear Wheel 880gr

Quick early review after 4 rides: 20, 30,45 and 100Kms, mostly to address current complaints here.

In the first ride, the seat was slipping and the front brake rubbing
I fixed both things (tighten the seat post and correcting the caliper position).  Both things seem still fine after those rides.

Bike feels very nice, Snappy under accelerations.
I seem to adapt very well to the position in this bike.  I don't find it overly aggressive, but this is probably given that I picked the bigger size.  I do notice the shorter reach.  Seamless transition to the narrower handlebar (400mm)

I don't perceive the headset play (roads here are horrendous).

I should also try to put the 11-28 cassette and keep the 11-32 for the gravel season or the odd Ardennes-like ride, because the bigger gap makes me either spinning or grinding

Wheelset from Velobuild (custom 50mm with Sapim and Bitex) feels OK. I was riding 42mm Prolite before and they catch more in crosswinds. In fact, I only perceive a bit of instability when a truck pass me, but nothing too dangerous

So, here is my version of VB-R-177.

Order placed in January, delayed by Chinese new year, procurement of spokes and hubs and a lockdown.

Custom paint and decals by Velobuild
Wheels are also from Velobuild (50mm), but customized with sapim CX ray spokes and Bitex 312 hubs
Groupset is all Shimano 105 hydraulic, with left crank PM (Xcadey)
Both rotors are SM-RT70-SS 140mm (also Shimano 105 series)
Tires are Conti GP5000 TL
Saddle is Selle Italia Flite FM Flow manganese rails

I didn't build it. I asked the LBS to do it for me as it would have taken ages to be completed
They didn't report issues in the compression bolt, but did report misalignment in the front wheel brake caliper too, as well as they said it was the "wrong rotor".  I fixed both things:
- I flipped the caliper mount as per Shimano manual
- When aligning the caliper, I used the business card method, but also inserted a 6mm allen key between the rotor (closer to the hub) and the caliper mount, before tighten the lower screw.  The one on top I left it at 6Nm.