Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - cyril_31

Pages: [1]
1
Firstly I apologize for my approximative English.
I finally finished the buildup of my new gravel bike.
If it may help, as I found plenty of useful information on this forum, here is my contribution.

The configuration of the bike is as follow:
•   Bike frame: Carbonda CFR 707 size L paint color RAL 7001
•   Frame protection: clearprotect all over the frame and fork
•   Bottom bracket: Shimano ultegra SM-BBR60
•   Thru axles: Carbonda
•   Front & rear shifters and brakes: Shimano GRX ST-RX600 and BR-RX400
•   Rear derailleur: Shimano RD-RX810
•   Front derailleur : shimano FD-RX810
•   Crankset : Shimano FC-RX810-2 31-48, length 172.5mm
•   Cassette: Shimano SLX CS-M7000 11-42
•   Chain : KMC X11EL
•   Shift cabling : cable housing Shimano SIS SP41, shift cables BBB speedwire BCB-36 and internal housing damper
•   Handlebar: Ritchey comp butano 44cm
•   Handlebar tape: Lizard skins DSP V2 3.2mm
•   Stem: Deda superbox 80 mm
•   Headset: Carbonda plus compression ring Deda DCR 45x45
•   Saddle : Selle italia flite boost gravel Ti 316 superflow
•   Wheels :
o   Rims : Mavic A1022
o   Hub : ZTTO R2
o   Spokes : sapim Race
o   Tires : Hutchinson Touareg reinforced tubeless 700x45
o   Disc brake: Shimano RT-MT800 160mm (x2)

For the assembly I had no specific issue except the difficulty to find the appropriate stem in order not to have a huge gap just above the frame. I finally went with Deda superbox, which associated with the handlebar Ritchey Butano does permit to run the brake hoses fully internally in the stem and the handlebar, whereas the shift cable are semi integrated.
I run the rear derailleur cable fully protected in its hosing from lever to the rear derailleur.
I also protected the cable housing (shift and brake) with rubber damper to prevent any noise during ride.
I just have a little issue concerning the difficulty to adjust the brake caliper, as I still have very little disc brake chafing. I will see if after a little use I manage to adjust it properly otherwise I will have to grind the brake caliper mounting surface for the frame and the fork.

In the here above presented configuration and without pedals the bike weight is 9.325kg.

2
Is the gap still present when you install the compression plug? Cannot tell from the photos.
In the provided pictures, the fork is not installed, consequently the expander and the top cap are not installed, however I don't think that the compression will permit to reduce the gap as all the part are in contact: bearing in contact with the frame and compression ring in contact with the bearing. In any case, whatever the compression torque applied on the compression plug, this will not (or very slightly) impact the gap due to the original design the of ritchey compression ring.

3
Firstly I apologize in advance for my english as I'm not an english native speaker.
I just received my new frame CFR 707 and starting to build it.
I went with an internal cable routing and chose the Ritchey switch solution with Switch headset, switch spacers and switch stem.
I saw that others have already installed this headset and stem.
The thing is that when performing the installation, using the upper bearing from Ritchey (or even using the upper bearing from Carbonda) there is an important gap between the edge of the compression ring and the top of the steering tube.
I measured this gap and it is approximately of 1,4mm.
I would like to know if you faced this issue on your side, and if it is the case what corrrective action dd you use.
I'm affraid that with such a gap, there will be dust and water ingress inducing premature wear  and consequently more frequent maintenance to be performed.
Currently, I have two options in mind:
1- create a 3D printing specific washer with 1 mm thickness to be installed between the compression ring and the frame in order to reduce the gap
2- order for another stem which will be more compatible with this frame, maybe a Deda superbox. If such solution is taken, can I use the bearing and compression ring provided by Carbonda and use directly the deda top cover, or d I have to order the Deda compresion ring? If t is the case which one do I need to use 45°x45° or 45°x36°
I really thank you in advance for your help.
As I found this forum very useful, I will also try to share the differnt step of the buiding if it may help.

4
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild GF-002
« on: January 20, 2022, 11:48:14 AM »
This color is superb, did you perform the paint on your own or did you ask LightCarbon to perform the painting?
Could you please give me the paint color code for this awesome blue color?

Pages: [1]