Can I ask whats bad about the navigation?
Is it sluggish? How does the screen update woensdag navigating?
I”m about to buy a cc700pro, mainly for navigation but you made me doubt.
Is the screen fluid like a  recent smartphone does while navigating?

A couple of irritating things: if you import a route in FIT/GPX format it discards all of the POI's, so you lose your turn information along with cafe stops, audax/sportive check-points etc. It then generates its own turn directions, but these include lots of false turns - basically any 90 degree bend in the road - which are a distraction for when it pops up a real turn. Also there's a big lag whenever you page through your screens to the navigation page, which can cause you to swipe or hit the Page button again and skip past it. And once you're back on the map/navigation screen it takes a couple of seconds to redraw your position and route. It's fine if you just stay on the map page. One nice thing: It will automatically zoom in as you approach a turn. It's not terrible for the modest price, but by any other standard the overall experience is mediocre. I'm ok using it on roads that I'm familiar with, where I might just need an occasional reminder. I'm not so sure about using it on unfamillar roads and routes - there'll be some missed turns and stops to consult the phone.

Muqzi on Ali for axles buddy

Couldn't have put it better myself. (Probably because I copied you). 3000km on mine and problem free.

To Op:
Here they are: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006778954376.html

Btw, lovely paintwork, looks fantastic and a good frame weight. Should build into a fabulous bike.

Messaged them regarding the Integrated Bars and it's more expensive than your usual OEM bars but cheaper than XMCS, Farsports and the likes. I want to try them for my next project.

I like the look of these too. Did you go ahead, and if so, what was the price - approximately - and were the weight and geometry as advertised?

I'd personally not buy any road frame without disc brakes and clearance for 32mm tyres. It's getting much harder to get good rim brake wheelsets now and higher volume tyres are just nicer to ride. The choice of groupset would influence whether fully internal routing was appropriate as I wouldn't want to run mechanical brakes with full internal routing. Getting a T47 threaded bottom bracket also makes life easier.

I've personally had a frame from Light Carbon and am happy with the quality, and currently have a frame on order from Mondince.

i strongly agree with this advice.

I've just up/side-graded from rim brake to disc. Rim brakes are great, but for most of us the advantages of disc brake bikes with wider clearance really mount up. Obviously, if your primary goal is to win the UK National Hill Climb Championships then it's rim brakes all the way, baby!

I went for an ICAN FL1 frame for my first build, which I'll happily recommend. Why?

• It's well made, with smooth internal surfaces and carefully machined interfaces - bottom bracket, headset and brake mounting points - meaning that it's easy to build with and, so far as I can tell, it rides well. 
• It's largely non-proprietary - T47 BB, FSA ACR compatible headset and round seat-tube. This gives you lots of choice for compatible 3rd party components, such as cranks, handlebars and seat-posts. (It only misses out on the UDH standard for rear derailleur hangers - so buy a spare or two). 
• It's cheap! Not Airwolf / Twitter cheap, but cheap.
• It's relatively light.

Aesthetics really do matter though and you might not like the old-fashioned non-dropped seat stays. Equally, if your heart is set on SRAM then UDH is pretty much a must. As others have mentioned, geometry needs to be in the right ballpark, so try comparing your Cannondale against some of your candidate frames using a site such as geometrygeeks.

You mentioned buying parts incrementally, which makes perfect sense. However it would be smart to pin down decisions on frame and therefore both bottom bracket standard and internal vs semi-external cable routing, cranks and groupset before you buy anything. This way you avoid some painful incompatibilities down the line.

For a budget limited build, the decision, in roughly increasing levels of cost, between these hydraulic disc groupsets:

• L-Twoo or Sensah mechanical
• Shimano 105 mechanical 12 speed
• Ltwoo or Wheeltop electronic
• SRAM/Shimano electronic

is a really interesting one. Any of these options can be made to work, and your choice may come down to the level of discount available. I stretched my budget by going for Shimano electronic which made cable routing and gear-shift tuning much easier and probably bought me reliability, but purchased from AliExpress which might make any future warranty claim a challenge.
 
For BB's: all can work fine, but I would choose a frame with either a threaded BSA and hence 24mm steel (or Ti) spindle cranks or a T47 and 29mm aluminium or 24mm steel spindle cranks. These are likely to be the most straightforward options.

Choosing compatible parts and trading off cost/weight/reliability on different components is a big part of the fun. It's not essential, but it may help you (it will!) to document your decisions as you go in a build-list spreadsheet.

Frames arrived and most of the parts required for the build.

Could someone confirm the bolt lengths required for shimano disc calipers with 140mm rotors or knows the frame thickness  https://si.shimano.com/en/dm/RADBR10/install_brake_caliper#xd_991fd65585931a99-18952947-17110754f5e--67e0

The frame thickness is 20mm. Well, mine is.

I have an 11-speed 11-32 SROAD cassette. It's been on my main bike for two years, it's just coming up on 16,000 km and I've had no issues whatsoever. It's used with 4 waxed chains in rotation and pretty well looked after.