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Messages - 2old2mould

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I have had some issues with routing gear cables into the 707 and 1056. The plastic port near the bottom bracket seems to require routing half the housing down one way then half or so the other way (back up). I did manage hto drive in a housing all the way through but I'm not hugely impressed with the way the cable comes through to the rear mech. I have experienced poor shifts. I am thinking of removing my GRX 800 2x and trying an LTWoo eGR group.

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5nm for me also. Don't carbon paste the interface between the clamp and post, just between clamp and frame.

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Agree that $650 (£515) with bars is a bargain for a well reviewed frameset. Shipping is the killer but even so, ~£700 for a frame, bars, paint, extras and shipping is not bad at all.

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Thank you! Did you negotiate with them to get those prices or were they just the prices you were quoted? I assume ordering direct via email is the best option vs some secret AliX store?

I went direct and spoke to Wing at Carbonda. I don't think I did negotiate, but maybe I did. I recall the shipping was an issue as all freight at that time was really expensive. Nothing to say you couldn't try to negotiate though, as things are different now.

My one piece of advice would be to be VERY specific with any paint or logo requests. Pull together a document with colours, logo placement areas, any fonts etc. Things can easily get lost in translation.

5
If you look at the Giant Revolt as a comparison to the 707 in a medium, the Reach is almost the same (3mm longer on the 707) but the Stack is lower on the 707 by about 11mm. I am 175 with roughly the same inseam and I think the 707 is a perfect fit in a Medium for me with a 90mm stem. I would even go for an 80mm, but not for the length, just to try the ride dynamics. I think if you ride a 56 Tarmac with a 90mm stem, then a 707 with a 90mm would be fine.

As far as cost is concerned. I think I paid about $1700 for both a 707 and 1056 painted and shipped to the UK during 2021 (so around C19 times when things were pricey). For me that was worth it for two decent bikes but you might disagree. I really like them both. The paint work is a bit 'meh' on the 1056 but I'm going to have that repainted anyway.

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I wouldn't say it would be more nervous, maybe more direct. Have you compared geometry between similar bikes on Geometry Geeks? Maybe see how the 707 compares to bikes like the Revolt, Silex, Checkpoint and Diverge.

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I'm 175cm with 82cm inseam. Saddle height is usually 74.5cm. I run a M with a 90 stem and 10mm spacer which rides like an endurance bike. For gravel I'd swap to an 80mm  stem. This seems fine for 3-4hr rides. For reference my road bike is a TCR with same saddle height, 100mm stem and 90mm drop to bars. A small 707 would have been fine for more speed and aggressive handling but I'm OK with a M.

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The question you are asking is whether moving your seat forward will offset the additional front end height you'll getting from having a longer fork.

When you get the bike you will set it up with your normal bike fit. This will give you your usual saddle height and reach to your bars.

Moving the saddle forward in this case changes your fundamental position, moving you closer to the bars which impacts your balance and handling.

If you think about it a higher front in this case is a bit like going uphill on a normal bike. Your position doesn't change, it just tilts back.

You may need to move your saddle forward and down a small amount, and also tilt the nose down, but any changes at the back will need to be replicated at the front to maintain your fit (lower bars, more reach, bars tilted down).

I suspect any changes at the back will be small compared to the changes at the front. Bear in mind though that these cheers may need to be compromises if you intend to ride a lot over rough terrain with the suspension working as this will constantly change your position as you ride. However getting your saddle height and set back dialed in on the flat would be the best place to start and then you can tweak from there.

TLDR: Set the same height/setback as normal to start and see how you get on. You'll probably make more changes to the front than to the rear.

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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda 505SL Integrated Stem
« on: February 17, 2024, 02:28:08 PM »
@dogsbollocks are you based in the UK? Also, what headset cover are you using? Is it a Carbonda supplied one?

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I am 175cm and ride a M Giant TCR with a 100mm stem  and a M Carbonda 1056 also with a 100mm (but could go longer). I found the M 707 was the right size for me with a 90mm stem to keep the steering sharp. 

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I'm running three of those RYET Air code saddles. Super comfy, and no sign of cracking or any type of failure. I have d two carbon based saddles and one plastic base. All good, although I wish they were a bit more narrow. I believe RYET does a narrower version.

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A few points to make. I own an a 707 external frameset.

1. I ran full cable housing through my 707 frame to the rear mech. I did originally try just the cable but the shifting performance was poor.

2. I think the supplied bearings from Carbonda are an 8mm thick and a 7mm thick bearing. If memory serves I replaced the 7mm with another 8mm so I could get enough compression at the front to stop the knocking of the fork however even then I had to tighten the stem top cap bolt beyond what I would ordinarily on other bikes I own. This is also true of my CFR1056 frameset also from Carbonda.

So far no issues with either shifting or headset.

Hope that helps some of you.

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Since your carbon repair dude already stated it’s a crack, are you not worried about a complete failure while riding? Seems like it could really throw you of if you were riding and could cause serious injury

I'm not too worried about the frame cracking further. The area where the crack is present is now secured using the alloy bridge which will provide addtional support. The area itself I don't think is of much structural significance, being mostly an area of carbon to fill the gap between the two seat stays. If it where the fork steerer, head tube, chainstay etc then I'd certainly not be riding the bike.

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I've had fits and starts in terms of comms with Carbonda but generally they are very good and the attention to detail is good also. In my experience having orded several frames direct they are at least in the top 3 suppliers, if not the top 2. My main criticism with them would be about paint quality (actually more about pantone accuracy) but that's very minor and mostly my own fault for having expectations of receiving a Trek Project One style paint job for $80  ;D

Actually, my main gripe with them is that they only have very limited models available. I own a CFR1056 and a 707 and would have had an Aero frame off them if they had one that looked decent (definitely NOT a fan of the 515).

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I've had some communication with Wing at Carbonda. To be fair to them they've been pretty good with emails. We've agreed to watch the situation and see whether the crack increases or not. I've marked the edges of the line so I can see if it's grown in size. At some stage I will take it to our local MTB park and thrash it around some trails. If that doesn't kill it (or me) then I'll not worry about it too much. It would be a real shame to scrap the frame as I do really like it. If I had to replace it I think I'd go for the Orbea Terra H30 alloy frameset as it's a similar colour scheme (the Orbea is a shade or two darker but still pops in the sun). Anyway, that's a topic for another thread/forum.

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