Quote from: Kactusdog on May 04, 2026, 05:22:49 PM
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Are your brake mounts faced? If there's paint overspray there causing caliper misalignment, no combination of rotors and pads will change that. I had to spend several minutes with a utility knife scraping the mounts clean, and a last pass with a fine file to make them level. Not as good as a full treatment with a brake facing tool from a shop, but it worked fine and I never had any atypical braking noise.

Quote from: demeaux on February 26, 2026, 03:31:01 AM
Sorry for the dredge - was installing Di2 painful?

If using a dropper post, yes - that's the point of the post. If using a regular seatpost able to accommodate the battery, then it wouldn't be any more painful than any other bike. The one thing I would be wary of is that the driveside chainstay is very thin so it's possible to get the end connector on the wire wedged in and stuck. Care should be taken to maneuver the connector through the wider part of the chainstay. Wasn't too hard to do with a bent spoke through the bottom bracket.

Quote from: demeaux on February 06, 2026, 04:05:01 AM
Hello. There seems to be a pretty good deal on the FE-02 on alix at the moment.
This seems to be the most active FE-02 thread, so...
What are people's opinions of the frame, the process, and what it's like in terms of mud clearance.
I know you can get a 50 in there - I raced (badly) CX this season and had a really bad time with my frame getting coated in mud and there being no clearance.

I like the FE 806 but again note the clearance is 38c max (which is what I have on my 2015 canti crux)....

I ran 700c x 50mm tires with plenty of room in the front and a few mm of clearance in the rear. With mud I probably wouldn't go past 45 in the rear. I also ran 650b x 53mm (measured) tires with a few more mm clearance, and the bottom bracket height was much better for gravel, but for CX maybe you want that higher BB afforded by 700c wheels.

Quote from: Motosato on February 03, 2026, 05:44:59 PM
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It's definitely a bit small and there is some overhang off the rear, but in practice it's been fine. No difference in shift quality between this frame and my previous one. Maybe if the derailleur got impacted from the front, the lesser contact area of the knurled ring on the inner face could lead to easier rotation, but this isn't a situation I've ever encountered so I can't say for sure. If it's not marring the paint then I wouldn't worry, though it is a bit out of spec.

It's just an XPLR thing, my Rival setup is identical to yours (118 link chain and all) and it's not ever been an issue in the 700ish miles I've put on this setup.

Complete album here: https://imgur.com/a/gUg6PwN

Selling my SPCycle G068 frame with a brand-new, uncut fork. See my posts in the G068 thread for more information on this frame; long story short, it's great but the original fork developed a creaking problem due to a bad flip chip design, which this new fork fixes and should not suffer from. I've replaced this frame with a Carbonda AF01 and, considering the near-total overlap of these two frames in design and purpose, I can't justify keeping this one around.

The frame has been largely protected by clear helicopter tape applied to the bottom of the downtube, headtube, back of the seattube, and chainstays (drive side top and both sides inner) and is in very good condition. The only paint damage I can find is a chip on the seattube, which has been patched up with clear nail polish and has been stable for months, and a small patch of missing clearcoat on the inside of the left seatstay. Mechanically, the frame is virtually brand-new - all threads are clean, the headset is a perfect fit, I've had no problems whatsoever in almost 2,000 miles. The new fork might require a little bit of facing of the brake mounts, but its threads are all clean too.

Stem and seatpost from the pictures are not included, but the headset bearings, spacers, and accessories are included. Additional pictures available upon request. I couldn't capture the paint in its full glory, a beautiful blue-purple shifting color that has gotten many a compliment, and is so good that I specifically requested the exact same paintjob on my new frame.

Asking $250 plus shipping. Pricing this one very low because I have next to no storage space and an unused frame takes up a lot of room, so I'm hoping to get it to a new home pretty quick!
Shipping to the lower 48 states only, and will pick whatever shipping option is the cheapest at the time of purchase. Local pickup is also available if you're near Boulder, Colorado.

Edit: sold to a local buyer

Quote from: FabianBe on January 13, 2026, 05:30:52 PM
Just a quick request: could you upload the photos somewhere else or embed them here please? I'm in the UK and imgur is not accessible here anymore. I'd really like to see your finished project! Thanks

Try this: https://postimg.cc/gallery/g8y9NPV

If that doesn't work, a VPN to view the original images might. Given the state of the UK internet right now a VPN seems mandatory anyway.

Quote from: pinkyyto on January 06, 2026, 01:28:14 AM
From the early videos of the eurobike show, the downtube looked massive and they had a minitool and a small pump latched to the storage door lid and had shoved a bag up the tube. If you say there is not enough place for tools longer than 3 inches then the storage compartment is not really serving its purpose.

If they do not put the channels for brake hoses moulded into the frame, would there be more space for the storage bag?

Also, after you take it out for a ride, please tell us how it feels to ride.

The included minitool fits neatly in its holder under the hatch, and there's velcro straps to hold a mini pump there too, so I'm sure that configuration could work fine. My toolkit is more comprehensive because I'm usually riding in the mountains well away from any cell service or possible aid, so I keep enough on me to deal with most possible issues, but this is more voluminous than what I think the typical toolkit would be. The main restriction for the frame bag is the fact that it has to be put up into the downtube, as it can't go downwards due to fouling on the bottom bracket bottle cage mounts. Putting the bag into the downtube in this orientation thus interferes with the seattube bottle cage, which is why a lot of bag articulation is necessary to get around this obstacle. If the bag could be put downwards, or if there's no seattube bottle cage, then tools could be about as long as the hatch itself without causing issues.

The molded channels take up a little bit of room on either side of the hatch, but not very much, and the utility they provide is worthwhile as it would be awful to deal with hoses every time the bag goes in or out.

As for ride quality, it's very nice and smooth, maybe a little less stiff than my G068 - especially in the rear where there's ~35 mm more exposed seatpost. Handling is nearly identical, I would characterize it as being pretty much in the middle between road and truly progressive gravel. Not too much more to say; the geometry charts don't lie.

Quote from: Nilist on January 06, 2026, 07:59:50 AM
What did you use to replace all the mounting point screws? Also Sugru?

In the pictures I'm just using the old button head Ti bolts (and nothing on the fork), but they've faded and I wanted something more svelte, so I'm now using Terske bottle cage bolts in burnt blue. Pricy, but very well made and a good aesthetic match. They are too long to fit into the fork though - bottoming out with about 2 mm of thread left - so I took those bolts and hacksawed about 3 mm off the ends and now they fit great.

The build is done and I took it out for its first shakedown ride. Somehow I nailed the fit just by vaguely replicating the dimensions I measured from my G068, so I didn't even have to stop and adjust anything, and 7 Nm on the seatpost clamp is plenty. I don't really have much to say about the build process. Everything was completely fine (except dealing with the hassle of a dropper with internal routing, seriously, don't do it), all the surfaces were faced and all the threads were clean, hoses popped out where they should, it was great.

I do have a few notes about the frame, though:

• The only flaw I could find on the frame, or rather in the frame, is that the ends of the channels that divert cables/hoses around the downtube storage hatch opening have some excess resin from when they were bonded in, and this resin has cured to form mildly sharp bumps. They aren't big, probably only ~1 mm high (I can only feel them, there's no angle to view them), but it's necessary to use foam housing all the way up to the channel entrance to avoid potential hose damage. The channels aren't big enough to accommodate foam housing though (at least not easily) so some careful measuring is needed to get the foam housing length right.
• Part of my decision to buy this frame was that it listed 160/180 mm rotors - but this is only true for the frame! The fork is 140/160 mm!! I'm not too happy about that, but I can live with it for now. I bought one of the cheap 180 mm adapters off Aliexpress to see how that works, maybe I'll keep it, maybe I'll spring for the Peak Torque BBC ($75 though...). I also emailed them about this and they've corrected the frame specs on the AF website to be more clear, so kudos for a quick response there.
• The internal frame storage is somewhat limited - the included bag is good and is a snug fit, but no object longer than about ~3 inches can be put in the bag lengthwise, because the bag needs to be able to articulate to be crammed up into the downtube. It can't go down towards the bottom bracket because of the below-downtube water bottle cage rivnuts. The bag wasn't large enough to fully contain my (slightly overkill) tool kit, so I split the lesser-used tools into a separate ziploc that I wrapped in two shop towels and wedged beneath the hatch. This worked well and there were no noises even on some very washboarded dirt, and the bags haven't moved a millimeter. Unfortunately I can't put my jacket in the downtube, it won't fit unless I take it out of its protective sack and I don't want it to rip.
• There's no clean way to plug the hole by the bottom bracket for front derailleur cable routing. Ideally a little rubber plug would be included to patch this up, as I'm sure many, if not most, of the buyers of this frame will be running a 1x setup. I used some Sugru to seal the hole but a first-party method would be preferred.

Overall, it seems like I got what I wanted: nearly the exact same geometry and handling of my G068 but with superior manufacturing quality and a few additional features. And the fork doesn't creak!!! I only wish the seattube was a bit longer so I could've kept my OneUp dropper, PNW is not the same quality. Oh well, can't have everything...

Well, looked what just showed up about 90 minutes ago...




Complete album here: https://imgur.com/a/af01-pics-QMrbsyw

I didn't get a tracking number or notification that the frame was on its way, so this is going to be a short post as I need to tear down my old frame, clean all the parts, and build up the new one before Sunday when I have a scheduled group ride. Thankfully AXS is fully wireless, and the positions between this frame and my old one are so similar that I can probably just leave the entire cockpit assembled and swap it over, though I will have to deal with hoses, oh well. I might be able to leave the dropper housing in place which would be convenient. Seriously, don't run a dropper on a headset-routed frame...

Some notes:

• The paint quality is excellent. The molding quality also looks extremely good - I'm not poking around with the endoscope due to time constraints, but the entire downtube + headtube look perfect. The brake mounts and BB shell are also faced. There's a tiny bit of clear coat overspray on parts of the BB shell but 2 seconds with a knife and off it comes, so no problems there.
• The frame and fork screws are not set with rivnuts that protrude above the surface, so all the mounts are flush with the tubes. I don't really like this, as it invites paint damage since there's not much contact between the screw heads and the frame/fork. I'll be using some spare M5 titanium washers for load-bearing bolt installation (mainly the seattube bottle cage), and might switch to nylon ones if the paint gets marked up with installation.
• The downtube storage hatch is a tight fit with a rubber skirt around the edge, so it should be pretty weatherproof. The included bag is nice and slim and should be no issue, though I haven't packed it full yet. It looks like I can fit my packable jacket in there too which will free up a lot of room in my handlebar bag. Downtube storage sure is nice! The included multitool lives under the hatch, but I'm not using it, and the mount for it comes off when the (extra-long) bottle cage bolts are undone, saving some weight.
• There are molded-in channels on either side of the hatch to run cables/hoses through to keep them out of the way. Very convenient, but they're a little tight, so I don't know if I'll be able to run foam housing through the channels or instead use 2 segments, one on either side of the channel.
• A Soma Further 36oz bottle (the biggest bottle I use) doesn't fit on the seattube using the stock mounting holes, but I anticipated this and bought a slim bottle cage extender, and dropping the holes down about a centimeter allows the bottle to just barely fit. This is what I was most afraid about, so seeing this setup work is a big relief. A side-loading bottle cage is mandatory though.
• The included seatpost looks like it should be pretty flexy. I'm not using it on this frame but I might put it on my commuter bike.
• The seatclamp is branded QUICK, so clearly Carbonda is reusing their design from Quick Pro. I haven't heard anything bad about those clamps, so fingers crossed. The listed 8 Nm torque seems a little high, I'm going to start with 7 Nm which is what I've been using on my current frame to no ill effect. Again, a dropper makes life difficult.

I still don't know what the utility of the three rearward toptube bolts are, but I'm going to be plugging them with grub screws so they should be mostly invisible. Other than that minor gripe, my first impressions are all positive, and I'm looking forward to building this up!

Quote from: pinkyyto on December 24, 2025, 08:32:18 AM
This is the chameleon color, right? How much did it cost you? Looks amazing. Please post photos when you get it.

Yup, chameleon blue/purple. The paint + no downtube logo was an extra $125, which is a little steep, but it looks like they did a very good job. The toptube and headtube logo color change was free.

My frame is finally done with paint and should be shipped soon. Looks exactly like what I wanted, so I'm pleased. Hopefully I can strip down my old frame and build this one up in time to get some riding in before the weather becomes too bad in the mountains.

Quote from: pinkyyto on December 19, 2025, 07:49:10 AM
Gravel noob here. How important are accessories like chain keepers and downtube guards for gravel bikes? Should i buy them with the frame too? I have read that a protective layer on the chainstay and bb area is good in case a chain falls.

Chain keeper - no need for this if you're riding a modern groupset with a clutch, even a 2x groupset, unless you're planning on doing a lot of front shifting while bouncing around at speed.

Downtube guard - more dependent on your local conditions, likely unnecessary. I always put a layer of protective helicopter tape on my frames to avoid paint damage but impacts severe enough to damage a frame are extremely rare and, from what I've seen, basically limited to very high end frames with brittle carbon and thin tube walls (e.g. S-Works Crux). A thick downtube protector can also interfere with the water bottle mount down there. A chainstay protector is fine, though I also just use helicopter tape there to no ill effect, and it's much more aesthetically pleasing than a blocky black rubber protector imo.

Quote from: klindsey00 on December 09, 2025, 11:55:09 AM
My g068 came with a grub screw on both sides of the fork to hold in the reversible dropout. Just a heads up...

Thanks for the info, I updated my original post. When did you order your frame? From your post history, it seems like it was by at least mid-October last year; I ordered mine at the end of July 2024, so if Spcycle changed the fork design then they must've done so shortly after my order. No one else has posted their fork in this thread, and when I emailed Spcycle they didn't say anything to the effect of "this change has already happened" - only that they could make a fork with the double screws - so I had no idea the change had been made. Maybe those of us who ordered the frame early on just got a beta design...

Quote from: LittleBobcat on December 07, 2025, 11:23:09 AM
...full compatibility with drop posts through all size range.

Funny, I had to buy a PNW dropper because my OneUp was too short 

No doubt the longer length of exposed seatpost will be more comfortable, but dropper compatibility with 27.2 posts, which have a maximum drop of 125 mm, isn't a great reason for such a short seattube. I would've liked to see 2-3 more cm to maximize bottle capacity and potential for framebags. Having both a very compact front triangle AND a bunch of bolts for framebags is a very puzzling combo.

In other news, my frame (and others, it sounds like) have been delayed in painting due to a lack of logo decals. Hopefully they restock soon, though I'm not anticipating getting the frame this year.