So it’s been a while since I’ve posted and I just popped back to see what everyone has been saying about the Airwolf YFR066…. BUT THEN I SAW THE SLR!

I want to do it. I was just gonna do the 066 as a random frame until I can finish a BMC teammachine I turned into a long term art project. (Bought the frame for $1300 but that was the easy part…)

Now, though, I have a calling bahahaha. I’m a jaded ex bike mechanic. I want to get it just out of spite for the years of trauma the industry has caused me.

I’ll chime back in if I get it. I think the SLR blows out the 066 budget.

For sale is my gravel bike that I never thought I'd sell, so here goes nothing. Read the entire description as this bike has seen modifications.

Frameset is a 2018 Workswell WCB-R-146 aka "our version of a 3T Exploro". The frame has been modified by my trusted local bike shop to work with the crankset; some paint had to be removed around the bottom bracket. I also had them modify the frame at the seat post clamp to prevent cracking. These modifications are not standard but it has been four years since and the bike has been flawless. I never planned on selling it hence my lack of hesitation having someone physically modify the frame.

Some chain slap paint chips but nothing to worry about with structural integrity.

Since I installed a chain drop-stop device after the first six months of ownership the shifting has been absolutely flawless and no chain drops or chain suck incidents since.

Shifters/Derailleurs/Brakes are Campagnolo Super Record EPS 11s. Brake rotors are 160 mm Shimano Ice-Tech front and rear for better heat management. EPS battery charger is included with the bike. Rear derailleur has been modified to accommodate the wide gear range.

Handlebars are Specialized Aerofly 42 cm; stem is 110 mm 6 deg rise.

Cassette and chain are Shimano XTR; cassette is 11-40. Chain is brand new.

Crankset is an FSA carbon 172.5 mm 110 BCD with a 52-36 PowerTap C-1 power meter chainring. It has been flawless!

Wheels are a light and completely bomb-proof set of Light Bicycle AR46 disc rims handbuilt on Mercury Wheels hubs with DT Swiss Competition spokes. They are set up tubeless with Bontrager GR2 Team Issue 40 mm gravel tires.

Bike comes with Arundel carbon bottle cages that grip like hell and Garmin computer mount but NOT the pedals.

This bike has never been crashed and is in excellent shape (except for the fact that the frame is not-as-received, once again, to be sure I'm making it clear). It has just been completely cleaned and serviced with a new chain installed. It has performed flawlessly over the past four years and I'm bummed to see it go!

Asking USD $2000, shipping at buyer’s expense to US and Canada via Bike Flights. I am open to shipping worldwide but you may not like the shipping fees UPS is charging us civilians these days. Open to offers, I can even deliver if you’re in the San Francisco Bay Area.

Those ceramic bottom brackets do not necessarily correlate to durability. Look at how XTR and Campagnolo Pro-Tech approach durability, with seal design and highest quality steel bearings. Ceramic bearings actually do require a fair amount of upkeep, which not many people commit to. For example, I’d look into Enduro Angular Contact series bearings.

Yeah, that looks shit. You'll want to check what the actual spacing is between the blades first. They might just be overly wide which is a different and probably worse problem.

I'm super curious to see what the spacing is; this really does look like a terribly (but still kinda well???) made thru axle or you are now the owner of a boost-spaced road fork 

I agree with St0mpB0x; there's a few things they did that aren't that bad, but a few items that I'd be sketched out on. Speaking as a retired mechanic who has occasionally ridden some questionable setups!

Re: your idea about a simple adapter for the barstem/headset cap interface, I'd keep it at least 2 mm thick as you said. You want to be careful it doesn't warp/flex.

Really interested to see how this project turns out! Are you going for a 1x road bike or.... ss?!

It is what you would expect it to be for $50-$80.
It’s way cheaper than getting it painted professionally afterwards.
It’s way better than most of us can do DIY.

Really really great way to answer the question. I selected custom colors from their palette and a design from their designs available and it turned out pretty great! (I also got the 168 and now I’m trying to unload the frameset unridden due to external complications.)

I even got the seatpost painted and it too was really not that bad!

My Velobuild 168 arrived in the mail today. 52 cm. I think I got lucky!!

Paint looks good and as advertised, although I swear the pearl white looks a little off white or I could just be seeing things.

After a cursory glance around, interior looks good. You can definitely see where they glue the different sections together, but otherwise looks fine.

Annoyingly, one of the “nuts” for the steerer clamp on the stem did not make it to my house along with the rest of the frame. Emailing Chris tonight.

I purchased the separate stem/handlebar (110 mm, 42 cm) with the bike and other than the missing part, it looks good.

See photos. I came up with the scheme one night after a long day at work. Pearl white, metallic silver, loud pink. The loud pink is nice.

This all being said, does anyone want to take this off my hands? This project is getting terminated due to unforeseen circumstances and if anyone wants it let me know? ( I hope this bit doesn’t violate the forum policies; if it does I can remove it!)

 

If you are asking about the entire FSA ACR set-up (bearings, compression plug, lock ring, top cover) then that would be difficult, and I would say damn near impossible to pull off if you want the actual FSA ACR front hydraulic hose route through the top of the steerer. That being said, on my TanTan TT-x21, I've used everything except the top cover, and routed the hoses as usual through the fully integrated handlebars and through the head tube without too many issues. Everything works fine with the stock Chinese top cover, which allowed me to keep the stock spacers and handlebars that came with the frame.

Hope this helps.

Totally helps! :-) My half baked plan so far is to just route both brake hoses through the headset since I’ll be running electric. But I’ll see how I like the VB parts before I get crazy!