If I were buying now, I would opt for FM1002. After almost 2 years, it is too late :-) But hapily exachnge within EU.
I run no spacers under the stem, +30mm handle bar and +10mm stem 50mm long, all this has IMHO positive effect on climbing and for me also to natrualy push more force on front wheel during descents.

Which offset bushing do you have? Frame clearance at full travel is still ok? I was trying to understand how offset busihing will impact the bike and came to smaller impact - with 8mm diameter the offset can be 2mm. With leverage ration 2.5 the difference on rear wheel will be cca 5mm. It translates to cca 3mm lower BB and 0,25 degree slacker head tube. Both changes are very welcomed but I seem to be quite subtle.

I already have enduro max needle bearing pressed in the shock, so it will be quite some trade off to replace it by offset bushing...

Did anybody investigated if there is any possibilty to slacken HA? 64 would be very nice. The only option I find out is IS56/IS56 from Acros but it requires special arrangement in the frame (probably holes), so too much complicaiton.

IMHO 150 fork is a must-have for this bike to be proper tail bike. Stabiliy at speed & confidence in steep is step up. Also stack is quite low, so 150 and high riser bar help here. Does anybody ride FM1001 with 160 fork? The only reason why not to it is higher BB and reach robbed by another 5mm.... HA 64,5 is absolutely fine, SA slackedned to 77 still acceptable...

Hi guys,
I have the Goldix EXP 240 MTB hubs (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003014289678.html) for 4 months now. I rode the in the bike park in heavy rain. Even after doing some pressure cleaning - No problems. While maintaining all other parts I also checked the inside of my rear hub. As mentioned all looked pretty decent. The last days I rode my bike again. Uphill, no big deal. But just at the end of the trail the moving ratchet must have gotten stuck somehow. My first pedal stroke at the bottom of the trail went into the void. Also the hub went dead silent when coasting. No engagement at all. Not even slipping/skipping teeth.
The issue seemed to have been fixed easily by removing and reattaching the freehub body. The sound was slightly different though. Back home I took the hub apart, cleaned everything thoroughly  and used only a very thin coating of grease plus a few drops of Fox 20WT Gold. The sound was became super loud but crisp after reassembly.
Today I went for a test spin. Uphill again no problem, even with some hard cranking. Happily I went into some fairly rocky, but fast trail. Again just before the end at full speed my bike suddenly became dead quite. I directly knew that the freehub ratchets got disengaged again. No pedaling possible. Again I just pulled the cassette , including the freehub body off the rear hub and reattached it. The ratchets had contact again.

This is so weird. I think the moving part of the ratchet is being pushed into a jammed position being unable to return. My guess is that either the moving ratchet part is being held back by sticky grease (unlikely) and the spring is too weak to push it loose. Or the "rail teeth" of the moving part get locket up with the rails of the freehub body. Also strange because I cleaned everything and regreased all with 20WT Gold in the first place. And the parts also don't seem to look worn.

Did anyone experience some similar issue or has an idea how to fix that?

Exactly the same problem, or at least exactly the same symptoms. I notices, that outer part of ratchet got stuck in the freehub body, like there is too much play between ratchet and freehub and ratchet to not travel perpendicularly to the freehub body. Any kind of greasing did not helped, new Goldix ratchet in the same freehub did not helped, stronger spring did not helped. Finally I swapped outer part of ratchet with different 36T ratchet, actually from ZTTO and it works flawlessly for more than 1 year.

With tires like these you will limit bike potential to a down-country territory at best. Around 850-900g per tire is kind of minimum reasonable, think of new Purgatory in T7 or T9 or EXO Forekaster as minimum from Maxxis. I used DHF MaxxGrip for all the colder part of the year, considering something little faster for warm period, but never an XC tire.
I would also reconsider simple SPD before you mount them for Shimano trail pedals for better support, it makes difference which is worth extra grams.

By luck, I seem to have hit it well then with the R232 shock from DT Swiss, which they say has a progressive curve.

But damper on R232 is probably too simple for this kind of bike, no?

And this interesting https://www.detrailbikes.com/berg-155/
Looks like they put different rocker (Alu instead of carbon?) to squeeze more travel and increase progressivity of our topic. This is exactly what I want, may be not up to 155. Interesting approach instead of using FM1002... 

Two small changes that I have made.
I've removed my Zefal downtube armor today because it didn't really stick at the edges and started to leave black marks on the paint. Replaced it with a Nukeproof Mega Alloy Downtube protector I got from wiggle, fits really well, upper part of downtube got some clear frame protection installed.
https://abload.de/img/20230909_15042756c78.jpg

Modelled and 3D printed a small flap for the main pivot gap between main and rear triangle. Had a small rock stuck in there and quite some mud on some rides that's now solved. If anyone wants to print that one as well I can provide the STL file.
https://abload.de/img/20230909_150446hmc8y.jpg

Thanks a lot for tip, Nukeproof Mega Alloy downtube protector fits really really well. As par chainstay protector Nukeproof Mega fits very good as well, just small cut. Alloy version fits much less. This kit from Nukeproof is kind of must have for FM1001....