Quote from: JohnnyRabbit on April 10, 2023, 11:38:03 AM
I had to reface the rear brake mounts on mine.

Been a long time, but following up. I had another shop reface the rear brake mounts. Since I and the first shop tried to force fit bolts, we caused some damage, but it wasn't too problematic. The resurfacing worked great, and the bike rides perfectly now. I've completed a few centuries on it and love how it feels.

Quote from: mariopetit on August 02, 2023, 02:59:17 AM
Hi! Where did you buy FSA components? (Stem: FSA SMR ACR Stem - 90mm    
Headset: NO. 55R 1.5" ACR STD and the spacers)
Thanks!

Right here: https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/fsa-smr-acr-stem and https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-acr-std

The shop that inspected/tuned my bike doesn't have the right tools for it. Looking for shops a bit further out. Tbd. In the meantime, has a lovely 40 mile ride last weekend and doing a metric century event next weekend.

I think you and 2old2mould are saying the same thing. I hadn't heard of refacing the mount and will reach out to my LBS to see if that's a service they provide (and think will help). Essentially, when they tightened the bolts, one of the bolts bent and the rotor rubs the brake pad on one side before pulling the brake lever. I'll follow up here after chatting with the LBS. thanks for the idea!! Again, as a newbie, I don't know what I don't know, so this forum is really helpful.

Hi all. I wanted to share a pic of my completed CFR1056 build as well as thank everyone for the contributions to this thread that helped me figure it all out. This is my first bike build, so there was a ton of learning in the process. A particular thank you to "2old2mould" for sharing his file for design that I leveraged in communicating with Wing. Details on what I ended up with:

The big stuff:
Frame: FM1056 Size M. (I'm 5'10 w/ 32" inseam and not super fit/flexy). Internal routing. 2-tone paint glossy.
Bottom Bracket: BSA-68
Groupset: Shimano 105 r7000. Hydraulic disc brakes, 11 speed.
Wheels: Elitewheels ENT Disc. 45mm depth; 28mm external width. Tubeless compatible.
Tires: Continental Grand Prix S TR - 28mm
Power Meter: Stages L Side for Shimano r7000
Stem: FSA SMR ACR Stem - 90mm    
Headset: NO. 55R 1.5" ACR STD
Handlebar: Ritchey WCS Streem Internal Routing Handlebar
Pedals: SHIMANO PDM520 Clipless SPD

The little stuff:
Hydraulic Hoses: Shimano SM-BH90 Disc Brake Hose
Shifter Cables: Shimano Dura-Ace R9100 Shift Cable Set
Tubeless Tape: Zukka Tubeless Tape 23mm
Handlebar Pads: Selle Italia Bar Tape Shock Absorbing Pads
Bar Tape: Domain Cycling Handlebar Tape & Bar Ends (94" x 1.2")

Build Learnings: Building the bike was an adventure and YouTube intensive. I had three major issues. First, an end cap for the front wheel hub went missing during the build, and since I didn't know better, I didn't realize a part was missing. This required finding a replacement. As the wheels are from a China based company, that took a lot of work to get sorted out. Checking for loose pieces everywhere before throwing out packaging would have saved me from this. Second, the original lock ring I had for the front brake rotor was too large and rubbed against the fork. I had to swap to a TRP Centerlock ring that was angled (narrow on the outside edge) to create space. Third, the holes for the rear brake caliper were slightly misaligned. This created rub between the brake pads and the rotor even without squeezing the brake levers. My local bike shop was unable to fix this issue, and Wing wasn't responsive. After ~50 miles of riding, the brake pads wore down a bit to allow free movement, but it feels like riding into a headwind until that happens. Will be annoying with each new set of pads. Fourth, while I wanted to go fully integrated, I wasn't sure on fit and feel. So I used the semi-integrated cabling route through the stem to allow some extra cable length. Once I've dialed everything in, I may go through the effort of routing through the handlebar directly and going fully integrated.

I did have my local shop complete an inspection/tune on the bike before riding it, and they found a few mistakes I made and corrected them. I highly recommend going that route if this is your first build or you lack 100% confidence in your skills. Overall, great experience.

Update: Success! I used a TRP Centerlock ring for a 12mm axle to replace the Shimano external tooth lock ring. None of the LBS in my area carried the part, so I got the TRP version since Amazon would deliver it in 2-3 days. Thanks all for the recommendations. Providing the update photo for comparison.

Quote from: carbonazza on February 05, 2023, 01:23:21 AM
If you put the other type of lock ring, that you can tighten with the same tool as for a cassette, you should be fine.

Awesome. Ordered and should be here mid week. I'll follow up here if it works in case that helps others. Just need to fix that, align rotors, install the chain, bleed the brakes, index gears, and wrap handlebars. Closing in!

Hey all. I'm close to finishing my build. Unfortunately, the lock ring on the front brake rotor is rubbing on the fork. Specifically, where the fork bumps out to accommodate the brake caliper fixing bolt seems to come out too far. Anyone run into this and solved it?

I attached a photo showing the issue. The through axle isn't tightened down in the photo, but when it is, the rub is bad enough that the wheel barely turns.

Another thank you for this forum (as well as certain individuals I ping'd directly) for the content here. I just ordered a 1056 and looking forward to building it once it arrives. Once built, I'll share the build details (parts, cost, etc.). First time I'm doing this, so should be an interesting experience!