Does anyone know the type of screw for the seatpost clamp?
It's getting colder and wetter here and i've seen the bottlecage, seatpost and seatpost clamp screws already starting to rust. For the bottlecages it's an easy replacement. For the seatpost i think i got the specs already in my sheet. However for the clamp i cannot figure out the style. I'm german, so i cannot really tell on how you would call the screw, that is basically only a thread and has a hex inserted in the screw.

Another thing is about the handlebar screws. Seems like it's M5 or M4, that has a nut that you need to put in another hex key at the other side to tighten it. I had a handlebar from china before and it had the same style. All my other stems just have threads inside of them. I cannot figure out the name of the screw either. I found one handlebar screw on Aliexpress that is titanium from "Risk", but in case that ever fails i don't want to order stuff that takes 30 days+ to eventually arrive. So if anyone knows the type of screw on the handlebars, i would greatly appreciate the name and specs!

Interesting. I didn´t know of Token. But from a quick search, I haven't found it for sale in Europe.

About the 24mm axles, I could try a Sram crankset with a GXP axle. I don't know if other options exist compatible with 12s sram axs groupsets.

I'm pretty sure the Rotor Aldhu 24 crank should work, you would just need to find the chainring, that works with a Sram Chain. Since it's modular, you can change it quite easily. Peak Torque made a video about their modular system and it was reviewed quite nicely in terms of manufacturing tolerances. There is a discussion about the topic here too.

there is also a token dealer locator: https://www.tokenproducts.com/dealer-locator

The reason on why i would avoid DUB, is that the space is just to narrow for good bearings. Also ceramic speed and cbear are quite shit for the price and ceramic bearings don't really make sense, since they are the harder material within a softer shell, so you will def. get grooves over time.

Here is my final build now. 8.1 kg including everything, bike computer, bottle cages (with hidden multitool), pedals, mount etc.

I think it turned out great.

Do you think an unpainted frame has less chances of getting such problems? Maybe its related to the paint? I'm tempted to change my order to unpainted, if it solves these issues.

I think it exaggerates the issue for sure, but i don't think these surfaces were ever treated during production after they come out of the mold. They probably are roughly prepared for paint and then leave the factory as is.

I believe what @vTuga is ultimately asking is whether or not the fact the brake mount surfaces aren't faced, actually prevented the brake calipers from being properly aligned.

Ah, yes. They are rubbing constantly on one side and i tried to remount the brakes multiple times. I also use a rotor shim that i put between the brakes and the rotor for spacing. But no matter what, it still rubs. Only thing i can imagine is, that the surface is uneven and therefore there is a tilt in the caliper that is causing the rub.

Finish the build today, cannot ride it yet tho, Wax has to dry as well as the retaining compound of the BB.
Not so sure why it's so heavy, it's 8095g for everything, including pedals.

I had my fair share of issues:

• Headset is absolute trash, you can still see the bearings underneath what they call a "seal". Give this 1 ride in the rain and you will grind this down. I will replace those.
• The SL7 Compression Ring is not compatible for me. My fork had a seam on one side that made everything super stiff, i took the sandpaper out to remove the seam, but the ring was still too tight.
• The Small Chainring on the crank was rubbing against the frame. I had to get a shim to put it on the crankshaft of the drive side to give it some space. Scuffed the paint a bit..
• the SL7 Di2 Battery Grommet works. Specially at the bottom. I bought 2, so i would make sure the battery won't dangle with the top in the seat tube. Had to cut one down with a scissor so it would fit.
• Don't know if i can fix it yet, but the saddle isn't centered to the frame and points slightly to the right.. my OCD is triggered. But i haven't messed with the saddle clamp much, maybe there is a way
• The brake mount surfaces are not machined and need facing. One more trip to the bike shop.
• There was a small void in the carbon layer of my tube that i was able to see after i cut it down.
• The SL7 seatpost cover works great

will see how it performs after i can do a few rides on it

Also as promised, i collected all the specs and products from reading every page that i thought matter to collect here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NpMFVEhRhZikKWWa3ZGyseyyIX_4spwQJXQ4DVVXCTA/edit#gid=0

It includes torque specs, bearing specs, alternative headsets + stems, SL7 parts, bolt specs, geometry table and links for the loctite that i used