Another upvote for the Supacaz clones from me.

I hate removing bar tape that has adhesive backing, especially when they tear and leave behind sticky and crumbly residue. That's why I used to stick to PRO brand tapes with the tacky silicone backing. And they're excellent, but they don't exactly have the most interesting designs.

But I've found a way to use bar tape with adhesive backing without the downsides by combining two tricks:

• Wrapping first with electrical tape inside-out (as documented in Park Tools videos and elsewhere), and
• Removing the adhesive strip from the back of the bar tape. Not just the white protective strip, but the actual adhesive too. Typically it peels off easily once you get it started, but sometimes it tears part-way through and you have to get started again. The inside-out electrical tape provides enough adhesive strength to keep the tape in place, while still allowing for easy re-wraps and correction of mistakes (of which I make many).

People happily using P505, could you please tell me, if it fits a 90.5 mm wide BB? And how much this powermeter returns back to bike's frame? I wonder if I could use P505 with my Spcycle G068 frame with t47 BB.

Where's the 90.5mm BB measurement from? The Spcycle G068 BB shell is 86.5mm wide.

I don't have specific experience with the Spcycle G068 frame, but I've successfully used my P505 Base PM crankset with both an Spcycle G056 frame and a VeloBuild VB-R-066 2023 Disc frame, without any spacers. Both frames used a T47 BB with internal bearings (86.5mm shell width). The clearance is slightly less on the G056 frame than it was on the VB frame.

I put these nylon bolts in the unused mount points of my frame. Lightweight, and won't rust. Size M5

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005853015671.html

An addition to the 'avoid' category: the Onirii PD-06 lightweight SPD-SL compatible pedals recently featured on Trace Velo.

The weight matched the description, and they looked ok on first inspection. However, as others have reported, the grease is thick and sticky, resulting in very slow rotation back to the resting position. So I figured I'd replace that grease with some lighter grease and see if that'd improve the situation.

However, the nut that threads into the pedal body is made of cream cheese, and it disintegrated as soon as I tried to unscrew it. I made triple sure that I was turning in the correct direction and that I used a wrench that fit tight.

Interestingly, in Trace Velo's video, he doesn't actually show the step where he loosens this nut - he unscrews it, but he says he had already loosened it off camera. How he did that is a mystery to me.

AliExpress return & refund request submitted and approved.

The tyres measured 29.5mm wide. Going with tyres that measure 32mm wide would leave about 4mm either side, both at the fork and the chainstays.

From the photos the top tube looks quite slack, so at 175cm tall standover isn't an issue? One thing I notice is the BB to fork distance is quite wide at 600mm, even the XS is at 587. I'm guessing toe overlap is less an issue with this frame geometry?

I'll admit I didn't give standover height much thought, but it hasn't been a problem. I'm sure I would've noticed if it was!

And definitely no toe overlap. Though I'm using 34mm slick tyres (measured width, haven't measured the height). Maybe 47c knobbly tyres could cause rub?

Though I'm thinking it might be time to retire this frame with something that has progressive gravel geometry.

I'm definitely no gravel bike geometry guru, but I think "progressive gravel geometry" essentially means "race-oriented gravel geometry"? The G056 is no slouch, but there are definitely racier gravel frames out there. Maybe the Spcycle G068 that has been mentioned in another thread, though I find that frame's geometry baffling.

Hi. Anyone have som example of good 1x crank and chainring combo with p505?

P505 - multiple, depends on which variant you have (older SRAM 3-bolt, newer SRAM 8-bolt, Rotor.

P505 Base - none that I'm aware of

We appear to have two separate threads for this frame. I'm also looking for a better headset compression ring, using the one supplied with the frame for now.

Linking my build report here for visibility and so we can better share what we find: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3739.msg65794.html#msg65794