More from the CycloWired post:

In conjunction with this announcement, XCADEY has released a factory tour video showcasing its manufacturing facilities on YouTube (https://youtu. be/NuH4b5SaXgQ). The video offers a realistic glimpse into the power meter manufacturing process.

Domestic distribution will be handled by Winspace Japan. Backorders for SINO will begin on June 6th, with deliveries expected in July. Additionally, from June 6th to July 6th, a limited-time campaign will be held where using the coupon code provided in the video will allow customers to purchase power meters, cranks individually, and power meter cranksets at a 15% discount at Winspace Japan's official website and authorized dealers nationwide.

XCADEY SINO
Specifications: 110BCD, 4-arm
Weight: Approx. 95g (95±10g)
Charging Method: USB Type-C (Rechargeable)
Compatible Cranksets: XCADEY / EASTON EC90 / ELILEE XXE / CYBREI / LEXON
Sales Format: Spider only
Price: ¥64,000 (tax included)

XCADEY LITE
Specifications: 110BCD, 4-arm
Weight: Approx. 120g (120±10g)
Power Source: Replaceable button battery (Operating time approx. 1,000 hours)
Compatible Cranksets: XCADEY / EASTON EC90 / ELILEE XXE / CYBREI / LEXON
Sales Format: Complete crankset
Price: Undecided

As promised, details and photos of my build (frame swap).

I bought the 54cm size frame in "Brown Gold" color from this link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008888066107.html

Seller: FiveStar GoodBike Store: https://goodbuygood.aliexpress.com/store/911571225
The seller has multiple posts for the same frame, with varying prices and paint options.

Cost: US $433.90 including shipping, Australian sales tax, and coupons. This was during one of the big AliExpress sales.

It's the version of the frame where cables and hoses enter the frame on the sides of the head tube. Old-fashioned, but it was my primary reason for choosing this frame - it's not easy to find new carbon road bike frames that allow for exposed cables and hoses. The seller also offers a version of the frame with fully integrated cables and a one-piece handlebar, for those that want it.

Weights with all metal bits removed (through axles, hangers, bottle cage bolts, seat post clamp):

• Frame: 875 g
• Fork: 367 g
• Through axles (pair): 68 g

I didn't weigh the included seatpost, headset or compression plug, as I used spare parts I already had. The included parts seemed decent, except the compression plug (typical).

Total weight as pictured is 7.3 kg. That's including pedals, bottle cages, out front mount, radar mount, speed sendor, bell(!), and mini pump mount. Not too shabby, especially as I didn't really go out of my way to make it as light as possible.

The frame quality is overall really good. Some points to note:

• I'd describe the paint finish as satin - it's certainly not glossy, but it has a slight sheen.
• The insides look smooth from what I can see, though I don't have an endoscope to perform a deep inspection.
• The paint is flawless, with the exception of one minor chip which is almost certainly from shipping. That chip is hidden by the chainrings, so it doesn't bother me.
• The bottom bracket shell is "keyed" into the carbon frame, to prevent rotation. It's the only frame I have or have had with this feature. So what you see from the close up shot is not paint overspray.
• The bottom bracket threads were okay. Not completely smooth, but I didn't need to chase the threads to get the bottom bracket installed.
• The brake caliper mounts had been masked before painting, but they had not been faced. This meant that they were not completely flat. Aligning the brake calipers to sit straight and avoid rubbing took quite some time, but I managed to do it in the end. I've bought the cheap facing tool mentioned elsewhere on this forum, so next time I adjust the calipers I'll try to improve them.
• The frame supports mechanical shifting, and I use it with L-Twoo R9 shifters and Shimano derailleurs. There are no cable stops on the frame, so I used full length shift housing.
• A design flaw: The angle of the front brake hose as it enters the fork is essentially vertical. This means that the hose can get pinched between the fork and the downtube if the handlebare are turned all the way to the left. I had to replace the hose once during my build as it got a kink. I added a frame protector hose as a way to improve the rigidity and prevent it from happening again. If anyone has other suggestions, please let me know!

The handling is definitely on the snappy or sharp side - some would probably call it nervous. Since the geometry is identical to the previous generation Aethos, I imagine handling would match. I'm not someone who can speak to frame stiffness, but then again I don't think that's an important property for people who choose the Aethos!

One difference compared to the Aethos is that this frame is designed for T47 bottom brackets with internal bearings. That results in the downtube becoming really wide near the bottom bracket! Probably not very aero, but for this bike idgaf.

suction cup type racks

I used a Seasucker Mini Bomber bike rack for a while. It worked great, including on multi-hour motorway trips, and I'd happily recommend it to anyone needing a bike rack for occasional use only.

Benefits:
- No need for crossbars on your car. Great if you either can't fit crossbars, or if you don't like the aesthetics of permanent crossbars (e.g., you have a sports car).
- Easy to lend to a friend or family member.

Downsides:
- Takes a bit of time to install properly, including cleaning the mounting surfaces. That's not a problem if you only use it occasionally. In my case, the only reason I swapped to crossbars and "regular" bike racks is that our occasional trips became frequent trips.
- You have to take the front wheel off and find a place to stash it in the car.
- The front mounts are typically for quick release bikes, you'll likely need to buy adapters if your bike uses thru axles (12mm or 15mm). They can be found for not much money though.

As for one two bike rack or two one bike racks: If I just had to carry one bike most of the time, I'd get two one bike racks. Otherwise I'd get one two bike rack.

I have one, and I'm satisfied overall - especially when considering the price.

Echoing most of tjebakka's comments, here is how I solved some of the issues:

- Paint overspray: I got my LBS to face the brake caliper mounts.
- Water ingress: Asked my LBS to drill a small drain hole under the bottom bracket. (I was too chicken to do it myself!)
- Bottom bracket: I use a thread-together bottom bracket, and that's been great. It's a cheap ZTTO one, so the end caps don't provide a great seal, but I add some grease behind them to protect the bearings. And when I will need to replace the bearings, I can just knock the old ones out and press in some new ones, while leaving the thread-together shell in the frame.
- FD hanger interfering with bottle cage: My hand pump frame mount sits behind the seat tube bottle cage, so that provides the offset required to clear the FD hanger.
- FD hanger design: This took me the longest time to figure out - I was struggling to get the FD cage inboard enough to avoid chain rub when in the small chainring and the largest rear cog. Turns out that the shape of the FD hanger didn't match the contours of the painted seat tube, making the FD hanger stick out from the frame where the FD bolts on. I solved it by bending some small washers in half and placing them where the hanger bolts on to the frame. This angled the hanger sufficiently so that the part where the FD bolts on was flush with the frame.

The geometry is the most aggressive among my bikes - great fun for a fast ride, but it wouldn't be my first choice for an all-day epic endurance event.

I once had to resort to an aluminium preload bolt to pull a Shimano crankset spindle all the way through a narrow bottom bracket. Replaced the metal preload bolt with the original plastic one once I got it through.

Time XPRO pedals are available with a shorter spindle, the shortest results in 51mm distance from pedal centre to crank arm: https://www.sram.com/en/time-sport/models/pd-xpro-10-c1

Some people really dislike Time pedals, but they've become my favourite road pedal system. Not because of the spindle options (I use the standard length), but because of the ease of clipping in, the self-centering float, low weight, and cheap cleats available on AliExpress. (look for the RRSkit-branded ones e.g., https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008670725446.html, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009384441414.html)

For Speedplay, shorter aftermarket spindles are available that can reduce the distance from the pedal centre to crank arm down to 50mm. Just make sure you get the right version - spindles are different on the "classic" models vs Wahoo models. E.g. these ones are for Wahoo models: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009353258301.html

I use Speedplay pedals on my commuter bike. AliExpress has "Alltoo" branded aftermarket cleats that work great and are significantly cheaper than Wahoo. E.g., https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006735957508.html

Though cheaper than Wahoo, the Alltoo Speedplay cleats are significantly more expensive than the RRSkit-branded Time compatible cleats.

I have this one with a very peculiar name. The price creeped up as it seems, bought it in December 2024 and it was listed for 30 USD. Managed to push the price down even further and paid 25 USD. Used it a few times already, pretty good imho. I wanted something with a display and did not want to pay a fortune.

I have the same Offbondage (!) mini pump, and I rate it very highly. Mine hasn't been plagued with the issues of the Cycplus branded pumps that all the influencers are raving about. Battery life is great - I've left mine unused for weeks at a time, and the was always plenty of charge left when I wanted to use it.