hello all just an update. frame is riding great. no issues. had to change out my bars 3 times( 1 time was my fought for locktit grub screws `other 2 times was to dial on the fit).  so far 2300 road mils and 330 mile on a wahoo kicker snap

@madmax 16.7lbs light or heavy? i came into road bike on disk last rim bike I had was in the 90s. Should I push to get this takin care of asap (fd mount)? maybe I should rewite my post. I dont want any one to read it and thing it a bad product. Im happy with it. just at the price I paid for it, it gives me options to move on to another frame and not be pissed or raise hell of the minor things I have found which can be repair at home or by a shop. The price was one of the things that brought my attention to the Asian market of frames. were as western brands start at 2k for mid tiers and 6.5k for top. with my system weight and the jacked up roads in my area, im surpised any frame and wheelset made it this far. (wheelset has 7k miles 1 bearing went one from riding in the rain 15 dollar and i was back at it)
 
an i had to replace my bars i use the wrong threadlock on oem bars

Im enjoying my frame. So Im just asking, Im not taking a dig at the product just making conversation

Just wondering if any one have any post build issues? I'm 1480 miles in on my build. I've come across 2. front derailleur hanger  has movement. feels like 2 of the 3 rivets is secure. An the water bottle cage on me down tube. bottom bolt is just spins. for the most part their secure, but if I was to have to do a trans plant to another frame wondering if i should go with another 218 or look into something new.

I'm happy with the 750 (including shipping) I spent on the frameset. For what I paid to what I got in return I feel like I broke even so far. after all its a clone. I see maybe another 9 months before one of the 2 issues become a major problem and I need to replace the frameset. so I'm looking to the community for thoughts. by that time were looking at north of 3000 miles on the frameset. i never thought of these frames as a long term item. for 1 its carbon which make it disposable, and by it being a clone and suspect carbon we don't know the actual durability.

me and my specs
groupset di2 11 speed,172.5 crank ,4iii left side power meter elite wheels 55mm juntech brakes system.
frame size xxl
dirty wt.19 lbs /8.6kg (no saddle bag no water bottles) but with computer edge 1030 garmin and garmin radar and separate tail light
std weight full load 24 lbs/ 10.88 kg (saddle bag=1.5lbs and 2 750ml water bottles)
my wt as of this post 227.9lbs/ 103.3 kg

Just an update on tire clearance on the rim brake frame.
I built a custom set of 60mm deep clinchers for this bike. The rims are around 30mm wide - slightly less at the brake track. Internal width is 22.5mm. A 25c Vittoria Corsa measures almost 28.5mm on these rims. As you can see, there’s still plenty of clearance on fork and brake.

No pics from the rear as I had the bike in the trainer. But there’s still plenty of clearance at the chainstays as well. I reckon you could just about get 32s in there if you wanted. Actual measured width, that is.
For me 28mm is all the width I ever need on a road bike.

 

@ what psi is your tire pump to just for reference.

Removed the non drive side crank & then tried to remove the UT cup
To my surprise the whole aluminum BB insert/shell started moving & now I'm fairly certain that was the cause of the creak

Is this frame even safe to use anymore ?

See image.  The video is too large to post
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ouch time for another frame or a good repair service. but it looks done to me.

You mean the threads in the one piece Handlebar for the grub screws, right? I had no issues with these. But there was one other forum member posting here who stripped the threads there after using Loctite. I think it’s safe to say that everything that is threaded on this frame should be met with a lot of caution. The material is not particularly durable and the threads are not particularly clean.

i had the same issues on my first set of bars that came with the frame( it was un painted) the grub screw were not drilled correctly. order another one off Ali. The grub screws holes are in better condition. I did use different grub screws then what came with bars. the OEM once are alum i went with a stainless steal.

At this point after starting the build I have

1. Bought the Pinarello top cap & compression plug for $60   (much better quality & longer length on the plug)

2. Additional spacers for $75 (yes, it sucks to pay that much for fine, refined plastic....from Taiwan)
    (and they are the only ones that fit perfectly on the Velo 218 spacers)

3. New SwissStop brake pads for $53 (campy ones are for alloy & I have no idea what the heck elite-wheels sent, they were marked Shimano Drua-ace, so I gave those away)

4. Garmin mount for $34 (I paid $15 for this to Velo & it wasn't in the box)

5. $17 for 666 grub screws (I am not making this up), made of 12.9 class alloy steel
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FM9JJWK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details


I guess if the missing velo parts show up I can return the  Garmin mount unopened & probably the spacers  & maybe use the fake Pinarello top cap as a guitar pick

you have pic and web page for plug.i went with an unbranded carbon piece for top cap.

so anyone else seen this one by Hambini ?

so after hambini did his video GC updated his video