No, You do not need washer with 0mm chainring on M8200 crank to get 55mm chainline.

Your Pass Quest chainring has a 0 mm offset, just like the M8200 chainring, which gives M8200 crank 55 mm chainline.

The M8100 crank has a 52 mm chainline because its chainring has 3 mm offset. To achieve a 52 mm chainline with a 0 mm offset chainring on the M8100 crank, you need to install a 3 mm spacer on the crank arm side.

I hope that makes sense.

They really, really, really tempt me...

My wife (she has "pretty" pretty long legs too) just finished her quest for a new gravel bike. We are the same height, 183 cm, but my inseam is 87 cm and hers is 92 cm. As I fit perfectly on a Yoeleo Altera size 56 (which is basically the same as a Scott Addict Gravel 56/L), she needed an Addict Gravel 58/XL after a bike fit.

So my suggestion would be to send her for a bike sizing with a bike fitter, or at least measure her inseam.

Quote from: Rajmundx on February 23, 2026, 06:04:29 AM
P.S. Tylu użytkowników na tym forum a ja prawdopodobnie posprzeczałem się z chłopem z tego samego kraju xDD

Z czegoś to wynika 

As all my gravel wheels are set up tubeless with sealant, I checked the clearance in a different way.

My current tyres are Tufo 48, and their actual measured width is 48.85 mm, rim is 23mm internal. An 8 mm Allen key just fits on the drive side with no play. On the non-drive side, there is still roughly 1 mm of space.

At the fork, I can fit a 10 mm Allen key on each side, with still about 1–2 mm of additional clearance.

There might be a potential issue with the height of the Race King 2.2, but I can't check that at the moment.

Overall, there is more tyre clearance than on my Carbonda 696.

no idea how to insert images on this forum

https://i.imgur.com/VxkkXJn.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qy4PKoj.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bhsbzBR.jpg

It came off with a bearing extractor.

Hi, I have a CSC wheelset with a D272 hub and Pillar Wing 20 steel spokes. It's time to swap the bearings and I have a problem with removing the end cap from the right side of the front wheel. All the other end caps came off easily by hand, but this one won't move at all. I don't know if it's just extremely tight and stuck, or if it's threaded/screwed in or held in place in some other way. I don't want to damage anything by forcing it. Did anyone who has these hubs ever change the bearings and knows how to remove this damn end cap?

I think that there is no problem here

september 2025 T1550 gen2 - 1780$
https://web.archive.org/web/20250906204337/https://www.winspace.cc/products/t15502ndgen

november 17 2025 T1550 gen2 - 1660$ (1780$-120$)
https://www.winspace.cc/products/t15502ndgen

In bundle deals same thing, starting price of frameset 2070$ (fu@k knows where did that come from but I assume it was starting price on premiere day)
September - discount to 1680$ and SL hendlebar 290$ to 250$ = 1930$
November 17 - frameset 1579$ and SL hendlebar 290$ discounted to 100$ = 1679$

Wonderin if pedal body could be changed to SPD?

Hi,

Shimano RD-RX827 / RD-M9250 / RD-M8250 / RD-M6250 all SGS work with 10-51 microspline cassette.

Will they work with 11-51 HG cassette? like SUNRACE CSMZ800.

Warsaw area, Poland

Hmm Agile or C5 Aero or 1550 G2

I "need" a new bike, new frame to be exact. I ride Scott Addict 10 for 4 years now. Good bike but it's squishy, when I sprint or get off the saddle to put more power on pedals I feel it wobble, especially in bottom bracket area.
I'm sure all 3 are stiffer than Addict but can't decide which to pick. I live in flat area, most rides are 40-80 km, often 100-150km.

I like 1550 G2 look, Agile is very nice to, common sense says C5 Aero (which looks good to).