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Messages - donavanm

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19mm internal width is fine. Until 5-10 years ago youd be very hard pressed to find a 700c rim with more than 19-21mm internal width. Ive dont heaps of cyclocross/touring/etc on 19-21mm rims with 32-45mm tires.

It seems like the current trend in "wide" road tires, ~28-32mm, is to have the tire be 1-2mm wider than the *outside* rim diameter. On carbon rims this is a tire thats ~8-10mm wider than the inside diameter. This is more "aero" and matches the tire width well to the modern inside diameter. eg A rim with ~24mm ID would be ~31mm OD and match a ~32-33mm gravel or rando tire. More realistically 21-23mm inner rim would "match" with 28-30mm tire widths butcould certainly go larger. *DO NOT* go with a tire thats narrower than the rim width.

> what width rim tape did you use?  my carbon wheels didn't have any tape.  maybe the 18mm tape I used was too wide

I suspect your tape wasnt even inside the rim, or teh tire beads didnt sit correctly. Your tape should be ~5mm wider than the internal rim width to account for the spoke bed divot. You want the tape to come up on the bead seat, at the very edge of the internal rim, and have the tire bead sit on the rim tape. Wrestling with the tire sidewall or going up to he max pressure to get beads to sit correctly is a timeless tale.

For myself Im using 25mm inner rims with a beadhook for 33-38mm "all road" tires which are really just light casing tubeless  tires with a a file tread.

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tsneidin: I'm 185CM with a 85cm inseam. Fits well to me, I can check standover height or anything else if youre interested. Havent really ridden it much. Took forever to get my build kit together, then work ambushed me, and now its winter so Ive barely been out.

kwantani: yeah, had it for a while recently built it up. No commen on obstruction, Im running axs wireless + hydros. Had no issue with installing either brake cable. Didnt notice any problems with the shhift ports. Actually, mine came with plastic cable guide wires installed so definitely no obstructions.

Thoughts on the frame itself: T47 is nice and Im glad I went with it. I had to clean some epoxy out of the threads with a pick but BB threaded in fine once I figured that out. One of the fork brake inserts was buried a bit deep, a layer or three of carbon over the alu insert. Rear brake inserts had some excess paint & epoxy over them. Headset "cups" are just the raw fiber from the mold and a bit rough. I spent some time cleaning those up and trying to make sure theyre circular and square as best I could. Raw fiber I could see in the frame was "fine", a couple wonky build ups or loose ends but not terrible. The seatpost clamp is a tiny little guy, like 1cm square of surface, as a wedge at the top tube. I hope it holds up? Would be best to chase & face everying on the frame IMO.

Running brake hose was no problem in frame and fork. Running from the brifter through the handlebar is a bit of a PITA with some tight turns, I hope you only have to do it once. I definitely beat my hose up a bit changing bar height/spacers/etc.

the build kit and extras was pretty good. IIRC it came with extra bearings spacers and adapters for the headset/steerer stack to accomodate the 1 1/8" or 1 1/2". The zero offset seatpost it came with was a single bolt halfmoon clamp style, couldnt keep the seat angle from slipping. Get a 2 bolt seatpost. I paid a bit extra ($50?) to get both flat & drop bars. I like both. going to keep drops on this gravelly frame and put the flats on my get rad ss cross townie.

Weights were close enough, 1.25kg for frame and 450ish for fork.

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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Straight 1-1/8” carbon fork
« on: February 12, 2023, 04:04:16 PM »
410 AC and 50 offset is a little unusual. If youre of with a more “normal” 400mm 45 offset fyxation imports these for $300, which do go on sale https://www.fyxation.com/collections/forks/products/carbon-fiber-adventure-fork. Frankly it seems a bit hard to find 1 1/8th straight steerers for road and cross these days.

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No comment on SPCycle/Carbonda/Canada specific bits. But the general ones Ive gleaned from my research & ordering w/ TanTan:

* Expect 3-4 week lead time to manufacturer/get a batch
* 1-2 weeks for paint. Pick your paint color, give them a common RAL/Pantone and they can translate. Or it seems more common in China to use 'YS' color codes https://photos.app.goo.gl/ufVeCKGaE2u7cjeq7. Expect $100 for simple paint, $150-200 for complex fades etc.
* Shipping to AU was $180 and took 1.5 weeks for my frame this month.
* Many frames will come with headsets, quality varies wildly from complete junk to "fine." The carbon seatposts/handlebars/spacers all seem closer to ok-good.
* Make sure to get thru axles with the frame. Thru axle spec (threading and overall length) varies by manufacturer and some of the odd sizes can be hard to find. You can always by better (lighter) axles later.
* You can frequently order extra parts at the same time. eg I got some extra flat bars+spacers+headset+bottle cages for $90
* Verify the BB/seat post/headset sizes when you order. I don't recall any manufacturer actually publishing these specs.

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No crank suggestion, but did you accidentally save money and buy a sram “wide” derailer? Theyve introduced fr. der and crank variants that move chainline out a few mm to clean 45-60mm tires. Ive the wide variants are about $100 cheaper.

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It’s the size large, 490mm seat tube. And agree on the color, I actually quite like it. Just had everything setup for a lighter tone. That paint is YS9321-1. I was working with “rose” via sales@tantancycling.com if you’re interested.

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If anyone else is interested, there should be an extra GR047 kicking around at tantan.


I ordered one a while back and it was ready to ship right before Christmas. Unfortunately the paint wasnt right, paint shop used an "off by one" paintcode that was substantially different, if not bad looking itself. TanTan was great about the mixup, and Im currently waiting for the rush order replacement frame to come through. I reckon you could get this one today, without the 4-6 week production wait, if you dig this paint (YS9321-1).

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