Any of you guys ride that frame yet, specifically one from Tom? Wanna know how it feels and what do you think about it.

386 is 46mm wide shell that handles both 30 and 24mm spindles/bbs well. My advice would be choose a good crankset, either 24mm or 29/30mm spindle, and then appropriate bb. I always used 24mm spindles and haven't got any problems with them. I even use/d 24mm alloy spindle on riro carbon cranks and they still run pretty good, but I ended up with crankside powermeter so I'm back on my 105 cranks.

Other important part is using the right bb. So you need 386bb with right spindle diameter, and then look for some decent brands. I was using cheap as.s ztto bb86/92 threadtogether bb's for a year, and changed 3 of them. They're cheap, yes, but they last really short. I ended up ordering token ninja chinese version and just pressed them in (also thread-together). ZTTO pressed easier cause of the alloy and rubber ring, so I allowed myself to put a bit of grease before pressing them. Ninja one pressed a bit harder cause they're plastic where they press into the shell, but boy do they run smooth. Spindle spins for ages really. So yea, brand is "driveline" on aliex and I suppose they have 386 version.

here's the video of it i just recorded... i was really fascinated by it

https://youtube.com/shorts/sbtq3aHuYA0

I am about to switch to di2. How do you hang the battery in the seatpost? Any tip?

Find tarmac sl7 seatpost holder on aliex. Fits on mine.

Im using riro 24mm cranks for around 5k kms. No issues so far. I hope they last another year or two. Don't want to use 29mm spindle in bb86 pf. Bb is ztto thread together pf. Doesn't last as my Shimano MTB bb, but it's good fit and no unwanted sound. Spins rather freely, whereas on Shimano pf cranks wouldn't spin good. I'm guessing velo build had a bit tighter bb shell.

...It's rather clearly me that can't do the bike justice.

It's so true. I once tought "they with all that carbon bling are faster than me because of those 10kg bikes", until on one race random 65yo dude with some old crappy bike and a belly under his belt went past me on a steep uphill... And I was in solid form at that time. That was a reality check that haunts me to this day

I've put some protection after the fact... I mean, the damage to the pain 

I had to return the crankset. The problem metioned earlier about the cranks seizing up the bb was happening on 3 different bikes with 3 different bbs. ztto threaded pressfit and token ninja would seize up completely even without the preload ring installed. On shimano bb92 pressfit bb the crank was still moving but was very tight, definitely overloading the bearing.
I think it's either the axle that's too short or the actual material of the axle is too soft so when it's toruqed correctly, the driveside crankarm sits deeper on the splines that it should.

Here's my experience: shimano bb was too tight on my 268 bb shell. Or probably, and most likely, vb 268 bb shell was a bit too tight for plastic bb, so the bearings got squeezed more then they should. I then installed ztto threaded bb and when I torqued the riro cranks, they would seeze and not spin well. I then noticed that I could tighten the bb cups a bit more. They were pretty close to the frame shell, but still had just tiny bit of room left to sit really fluish to the frame. So I tightened them just a bit more...

then, I could tighten the cranks pretty tight without seezing. So they really need to be on the point with the bb width in order to be tightened to the specd torque. I've been rinding them, now about 500kms, they work pretty darn well.

However, I have one question. The bolt that's on the drive side, one that had the torque specs written on it, I would like to buy one spare cause I think I saw trace velo said on one of his videos that it failed on him, but I don't know what video was that... Is it same as ordinary DUB crank bolt?