Thanks. What a shame their lightest wheelset is almost as heavy as my 58mm deep wheelsfar hypers

On that. Does anybody know who OTVTO are?

Hi All,

Searched for the answer to this but nothing has come up.

As per the title, does anybody know of any brands that actually keep wheels in stock rather than build to order? I'm after some climbing wheels for some hill climbs and although I'd like to say it's fashionably late. If I'm waiting 6-8weeks for some wheels to be built and sent then the season is over!

Any ideas? Thanks!

Hi All,

Searched for the answer to this but nothing has come up.

As per the title, does anybody know of any brands that actually keep wheels in stock rather than build to order? I'm after some climbing wheels for some hill climbs and although I'd like to say it's fashionably late. If I'm waiting 6-8weeks for some wheels to be built and sent then the season is over!

Any ideas? Thanks!

(Alternatively if anybody in the UK has a ~1kg disc wheelset they want to offload then that could also work)

Amazing how you can look at a seller and completely miss what they are offering. Have Farsports Gravel Wheels and they are excellent. Looks the way to go! Thanks all

Does anybody have any recommendations for full Carbon Wheelsets with deep (50+mm) depth and 30mm outer rim width?

The Exar Ultra DB508 would be perfect but Magene don't ship to the UK, so it would be from Ali Express which poses potential uplift on duty.

Considering the CRW works from Panda Podium but not sure I can justify the price.

9velo also seems a good option especially as their hub design is bomb proof but outer rim width is only 28mm.

The roads are so bad around where i live I wouldn't ride any tyres less than 30c again. Currently have some lightbicyle AR56 on dt350 hubs and the transition between tyre and rim is perfect. Just hoping to get something slightly more weight weenie! 

Any options I've overlooked?

Quote from: madmax on April 05, 2023, 06:28:41 PM
My replacement frame showed up after much emailing back & forth

Note. They will only ship you the frame & not the seatpost or fork or handlebar.
I went ahead & paid another $300 to get another fork/seatpost/handlebar & they forgot to add in the Garmin mount, which I paid for & they have now stopped responding to emails & I have no idea if it will ever show up.

So at this point I have a fullblown set sitting in the garage with parts to make a whole new bike or move components over from existing bike, where I had the bb creak & the insert move around.
I did fix that (for now) by drilling a hole & pouring in RC-1 but now there other rattles in the front & I might just move over components to new frame & keep old one as a spare or put that bike on a trainer & just go with force eTap on the replacement frame (though now I am badly addicted to the Campagnolo Record mechanical shifting, after they sent a replacement FD & the tech fixed it & did a superb job)

I'd pay the extra $280 for the above 2 components & just keep them as a standby in case you need them.
You might be able to use RC-1 to bond the seatpost & just use the frame in a trainer at home, since it won't be safe to ride outside anywhere.

Keep the above in mind & keep in touch via email with "Chris" so you get your replacement frame. Their communication is fairly good given the latency & they do send out tracking #'s when they ship.

All in all, it was still an awesome learning experience & apart from some niggling issues, I would have no hesitation buying the same frame again to build a bike.

Thanks for the advice. 'Chris' responded this morning to say they could send a 1.5k frame out on Monday. There was a bit of confusion as they first said they would send a UD finish so I said this was fine but would want new forks as this would match.

I did also previously get a quote for $200 to change to the vb168 frame with all the additional components added but decided against.

I know what you mean with nice to have spare parts - also I may well paint/get somebody to paint this replacement frame before building it so new parts would be easier. Did they send you all new hardware too? Bearings clamps etc?

Then again. Part of me also thinks it's another $200-300 dollars down the drain when I decide against using the new frame and go buy a western brand haha.

Last question: does everybody else's frame seem to have a worrying amount of flex around bottle cage area on the downtube and the middle of the chain stays? I know you're not supposed to 'squeeze' the carbon but honestly some of the wall thickness does worry me! Forks, handlebars and seatpost all seem solid but the frame just doesn't seem to match.

Quote from: pierluigi on April 05, 2023, 02:41:37 AM
Thanks for your comment:
someone has other suggestions?
@Sebastian ?
@kongo ?

There's no holes in the bar but if you have a bar end junction you'll be able to daisy chain the Di2 wires to the levers utilising the multiple di2 ports on them. And then route through the brake hose holes and from there to the frame and down to the battery and derailleurs - DI2 will basically shift correctly as long as all the components are connected in some way. Bettershifting.com is a great resource for this.
If you're handy with a solder iron you can also save a few pennies by making your own wiring loom and avoid the need for multiple junction boxes.

I put the new 12 speed on mine so no need for wires in the handlebars but I may well install some at a later date to increase the system battery life (lasts longer when wired)

I'm still waiting for Chris to ship me a replacement frame after I had the cracked seattube issue Sebastian also had.