Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - ElRey

Pages: [1] 2
1
Others here will be better placed to advise on specific China rim brake frame options, but if it helps to inform your thinking then:

- unless you specifically want a brand new frame then well worth looking on EBay and other marketplaces for used rim brake frame sets. I’m guessing you might be in the UK (‘wits’ end’) in which case there are some really good deals to be had on eBay rn for out-of-fashion carbon rim brake frames. Probably true in other countries too.

- plenty of good reasons to choose a frame that’s compatible with existing components rather than one that requires you to start again. But worth considering st least if you’re likely to want to upgrade those components at some point - if yes it could make more sense to bite the bullet now. Debates about performance aside, disc brake bikes on the whole allow more potential for bigger tyre clearance (although the 32 on that TanTan is wild).

- if you’re riding your endurance frame slammed with a long reach stem (130+) then that suggests you could afford to ride a more aggressive frame, at the very least with spacers and a shorter stem. If you find your Allez too sluggish, too unresponsive, too sit-up-and-beg - then you may want to get a frame with a more aggressive geometry. If you like the characteristics just fine, then - based on what you’ve said - no great advantage i wouldn’t have thought.

- you don’t give much detail on the type and amount of riding you are / want to do. i’m currently 87kg. I’ve got race bikes with 25mm tyres and endurance geometry bikes with up to 33mm tyres. The latter type is definitely more comfortable but the former does just fine because they fit me. If I want to go on a fast club ride I’m on the race bike, for commuting and longer, more leisurely rides, I’m not. If I could only have one type I’d go endurance geometry - for me, the speed and responsiveness benefit of the race bike isn’t great enough to trump comfort.

Hope that’s at least marginally thought provoking. Good luck!
 

I have a set of 105 shifters and derailleurs, with an FSA crankset. I already have carbon rim brake wheels from Elite wheels and Superteams. My original plan was to just upgrade my current 2020 Specialized Allez (alloy frame with carbon fork), but the temptation to buy a new CF frame is pretty high.

Since I already have most of the things I need, I don't really want to splash the cash on a whole new groupset, new wheels and a new frameset, so I'd like to stick to rim brake.

The Specialized I have is endurance geometry and I'm a little trepidatious when it comes to buying a CF racing frame. I already run my stems slammed and with slightly longer reach, but I am a bit concerned that the geometry of these bikes just won't work for me. I'm also a bigger rider (88 kg), and riding the widest tires I can has done worlds for my comfort on the bike (28c currently).

All that being said, I'm just not sure what I should do. I'd like a frame that has some aero features, but obviously the fastest bike is the one that's the most comfortable for you for the longest. I'm just trying to grab some Strava KOMs around here and beat my own records. If the best fit IS a race bike, that's okay.

So, aero features, rim brakes, comfortable enough, and fits 28c tires. I'm just overwhelmed by how many choices there are. I'm not sure if the aero bikes are THAT much better for me than the lightweight bikes, considering I'm so big. I'm not sure those aero features are going to be the better choice when I can only get so small, and climbing is already not my strong suit. Sorry for this being so long. I'm just kind of at my wits' end. Would I be better off building up my current alloy bike with the 105 components, or is there a good enough frame out there that wouldn't be such a bad option for my situation?

2
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda CFR-VT02
« on: September 21, 2024, 03:08:40 PM »
Wing restated that to me today. Shame!

I asked them before summer and they said :

Our future development plan will not include ROAD AERO.

3
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda CFR-VT02
« on: September 20, 2024, 09:55:21 AM »
Helpful analysis, thanks. I’ve got a couple of Carbondas and rate them highly. Not that put off by the 30mm max tyre size, which - if their other frames are anything to go by - is probably conservative and I’ve got an all-road bike if I want 32+. But the weight is probably the killer for me - looks like I’d be hard pressed to keep a painted XXL build under 8kg without shallow rims and/or draping it in lightweight carbon bits.

If it is the Vitus ZX 1 Evo , and sure looks like it, it’s been out a while. Wonder if they’ve got something else in the making.

Cheers
Ben

The fork looks like an open mould fork (LT268).
30C clearance, not future proof.
1050+50g weight in M is nothing to write home about, which makes me suspect it's not a new design given they call it ultra light.
100% full toray carbon fiber - could be full T700, you'll never know. Usually when they use high end materials OEMs write about it.
That seat post looks uncomfortable (thin and long, that's what she said). I'd make sure to run max tyre size, and wouldn't buy that unless you're going to have a lot of exposed seatpost (if you have very little saddle to bar drop, consider another frame).
the downtube is quite large / round, for something meant to be aero. You can have a look at the LT268 in comparison that's much more tear drop shaped. Presumably at high speeds, it matters, and dont buy such a frame if you're not going to go fast.

People here say good things about carbonda though (gravel / endurance bikes).

4
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda CFR-VT02
« on: September 20, 2024, 09:45:24 AM »
Nice one!

That should be the Vitus ZX 1  Evo.

https://vitusbikes.com/collections/zx1/products/vitus-zx-1-evo-frameset-07e7

Geotabels are slightly off, but to my knowledge its the same.

5
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Carbonda CFR-VT02
« on: September 20, 2024, 02:13:35 AM »
Hi all

Does anyone have any experience with the Carbonda CFR-VT02?

https://www.carbonda.com/road/cfr-vt02.html

I can’t find any talk about it, let alone builds, on this forum or anywhere else for that matter. Maybe it’s newly released?

(The description of it as an ‘ultra weight’ frame on the website might be why no one’s bought it ;) )


Cheers

Ben

6
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda 505SL Integrated Stem
« on: September 08, 2024, 06:04:40 AM »
Hi

Good luck with the build. Yes the fork has a hole I. The steerer tube for the front brake hose to exit (and then through headtube). The rear hose and gear cables if you use them will feed through the frame (downtube) and then into and out from headtube.

You don’t have to use an ACR system if you change the headset supplied and don’t use Carbonda’s bars (both of which, plus spacers are ACR type). Just make sure you get the right size headset (see my previous post). I think others have used DCR type full internal and integrated, for instance. Or you could you could get a semi internal headset so the cables come out of the headset leaving you free to choose any type of stem and bar - but arguably this kind of negates the point of getting the internally routed frame option in the first place.

(Thinking out loud - I guess it’s possible you could use the ACR headset with a custom spacer that provides compatibility between an ACR headset and another type of integrated bar, but I’ve no idea if such a thing exists. Others may know.)

Hope that helps.
Ben


Hi everyone, first post here, nice builds!

I have a 505sl on the way. I have a few questions to which Carbonda's answers were not realy clear.

I chose the version with internal routing. Carbonda's description is as follows: “If you choose internal routing, the frame needs to use internal routing fork and it will have cable routing holes at the headtube”.
I'm not sure to understand. Is there a hole in the steerer tube? Is it possible to use other systems than FSA ACR, or does it have to be ACR compatible? Not being limited by ACR compatible components would open up the stem options for my build.

According to carbonda the rotor size would be 140mm (160mm with adapter) at the FRONT and 160mm at the REAR, is this correct?

Thanks for your answers

7
Yeah it is a bit confusing. In the end i:

- replaced the bearings with MH-P16 40x52x7 45/45 - also known as 1B3 K4052H7 MR128 TH-070E MR170. I bought mine from Hambini at £11 each.
- used Carbonda’s crown race and top compression ring (through which cables feed)
- used an FSA ACR 55R dust cap, along with an FSA ACR spacer. The FSA ACR dust cap is compatible with the Carbonda compression ring and the FSA spacers are compatible with the Carbonda bars.

For reference (I learned by trial and error) - the FSA 55R ACR bearings are 51.8x8. This means they’re not compatible with Carbonda’s crown race or compression ring. And the design of the frame means you can’t run an FSA 55R top bearing, FSA 55R compression ring and FSA 55R dustcover because the bearing seats lower in the top of the head tube, the compression ring has a lower stack height and so taken together the dust cover rubs on the top of the head tube.

The FSA dust cover aesthetically is a lot nicer than the Carbonda one - not sure if you can buy it separately without having to buy the whole headset.

Hope that helps!

8
Hi lovely build.
what was the price for f &F and bars etc?
thanks
John

This is what Wing @ Carbondale quoted me, noting prices change:

CFR505 SL : US$660.00 with frame, fork, seat post,clamp.
CFR505 SL : US$820.00 .with frame,  fork, seat post ,clamp. +handleabr CGB02
 
headset: US $15.00
F&R axle: US $26.00
 
extra rear derailleur hangers: US$8.00
 
spacers:  10MM , 5MM  a set : $5
( It contained in the CGB02 handlebar, if you do not buy the CGB02 handlebar,Spacers are not present by default ,   It need additional purchase required)
 
extra rear derailleur hangers: US$5.00
(One is included with the accessories and one is mounted on the frame.)
 
standard matte : free
standard matte is between black matte and UD matte , It have clear coat protect the paint
 
UD matte , UD glossy : $105
One color: US:$70.00(matte or glossy,solid color )
Two colors: US$ :95.00 ( all matte or all glossy,solid color )
Two colors: US$ :105.00 ( matte and glossy,solid color )
Two color gradient : US$ :115.00 ( all matte or all glossy ,solid color )

9
Do you have the links? I always miss some...

I bought them from here:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264763709464?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=AoBSuMVjTx2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=6Z99glLAQgu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

For seat tube holes I used Size A (5.5mm shaft diameter).

They ship from China so probably can be found cheaper on Ali etc but not big bucks either way.

B


10
No direct experience but if you do find something like that Rockymounts adaptor the thing you might just want to check is the clearance at the rear if you’re lifting the front end on the stand by a few inches. Or vice versa. May not make a jot of difference but something to think about at least.

The stand looks like it’s modelled on the Feedback Sports Sprint stand, so you might be able to get a replacement part from Feedback - either the whole sliding clamp if the dimensions are the same, or the cyclinder that the quick release /thru axle slides thru. But may be expensive and I guess you won’t know til you’ve got it.

For what it’s worth I had one of these style mounts (the Feedback Sprint) and got rid of it. I found it annoying to have to remove a wheel every time, and a right faff in particular if you want to fix by the rear dropout. So much easier to use a traditional stand. But if you’re travelling a lot I can see the attraction in the portability.

11
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: aero gravel frame
« on: July 05, 2024, 02:50:43 AM »
The CS-GR01 from XiamenCarbonSpeed?

12
I’ve been using the ZTTO version:

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! £27.29 | ZTTO 150psi Mini Electric Air Pump Portable 2400mAh Tire Inflator Presta Schrader Valve Car Bike Motorcycle Pump With LCD Type-C
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIwoiPN

…and would recommend. Battery lasts for ages, seems relatively quiet (although nothing to compare noise to other than my massive air compressor!).

These days I either use my air compressor or this - my floor pump broke and I never bothered to replace it.

14
Picture now included


Some reflections having put some miles in on the bike. In case helpful for those maybe thinking about one.

All told I’m very happy with it and would recommend. I guess the way that gravel bikes are going this is going to be seen more as an all-Road bike than a gravel bike, principally because you’re limited to 42-45mm tyres (I’ve got 44mm Mezcals on no prob, but would be wary about going bigger in clingy-mud). And lack of mounts mean it’s not designed for bike packing etc. But that suits what I want it for and I’ve been happily riding it fast on the road with 33mm slicks and off-road on 44mms. I haven’t found its ability to do both a compromise on either which I thought I might. If I’m on stuff where 44mm isn’t enough I’d rather take my mtb anyway.

I had seatpost slipping issues - the seat tube  is +0.15mm over and 2 Carbonda seatposts supplied are both under 27.2 to about the same degree. No amount of carbon paste was solving the issue. The seat collar supplied is 13mm high - I wondered if a taller collar (18mm?) would solve the problem but most collar listings don’t specify height dimensions and the few that do all seem to be max 15mm. In the end I solved the problem with some adhesive  0.2mm vinyl sheeting designed for covering books. A single layer of that on the seat post has worked without issues.

On chainrings - I’m running the stated max 42T ring with a 6mm offset (as recommended) on a SRAM DUB road crank (with 10x44 XPLR cassette). I don’t think you could go more than 42T with this set up without putting on a ring without an offset (or maybe 3mm instead of 6) - there isn’t much room to play with, see pictures. I’ll defer to others’ experience of increasing the chainline on shifting performance and wear etc. As it happens I don’t spin out with 42x10 until over 40mph which is fine by me for the type of riding I’m doing on this.

Finally - in going 1x fully wireless without a chain guide I had to buy some rubber hole plugs/bungs to cover the unused holes. Cheap on eBay.

15
Maintenance, Mechanics, & Tools / Re: Carbonda fork vibration
« on: June 23, 2024, 07:30:42 AM »
came across this thread as i had the same issue. a warped rotor was causing the problem for me too. so perhaps worth checking that if it comes back

perhaps a rotor with some warping. i've had this before.

Pages: [1] 2