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Messages - Wet Noodle

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1
I always wish that the bolts were steel instead of aluminum for better durability.
The bolt is supposed to be titanium, which should be just fine.

Quote
The clamp mechanism is 2 half carbon cylinders. Because of this the top clamp sticks out a little bit.
That's very useful info, as this is really easy to overlook.

Personally, I'd  have no qualms chamfering the top half a little if it did poke out under the seat (assuming it'd fit height-wise in the first place). Nothing crazy, just taking the edge of, so to speak.

2
Q-factor measured on the inside of the crank is kind of unhelpful without all the other dimensions :S
I didn't click the link, so this is just general advice. Crank arms are usually ~14 mm thick at the end. If the inner distance at the pedal bore is given (sometimes referred to as I), you can add ~30 mm for a rough estimate.

3
Did you try to search the forum for 'plug'? I just did and it seemed to work.

4
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Nipple quality
« on: April 16, 2025, 12:59:17 PM »
I would never ever in my life use brass nipples (probably)
Why not?
Maybe I should have emphasised the 'I'. That was not meant as life advice, just some 'I do it like that' rant.

Regarding your question - for me it's more like 'why should I". So far, I never had corrosion issues (we do have rain ... and winters and salt). As said, I build once and don't retrue (not that I'm that good at building wheels (far from it), I just profoundly reject the very idea of ever having to retrue a wheel as some kinda expected service thing - no, just NO, when it's done, it's done (and it'd better stay that way)). I do find aluminium nipples more susceptible to chew marks from building/trueing (might also just be easier to see with the colour, not sure) - ds to the rescue, so not an actual issue. I'm easy on my bike (just commuting and light bike touring). All in all, it's "free" weight saving, however miniscule it may be.

5
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Nipple quality
« on: April 15, 2025, 04:35:41 PM »
I would never ever in my life use brass nipples (probably) ... but I am also of the strange opinion that a wheel should only be built once. That said, I prefer to use sapim ds soaked in linseed oil, which lubricates at first and later turns into a mild adhesive (but may get nasty strong after a long time ... but I don't retrue).

6
At least, now you can have cheap eggs.


Sorry, that was very much unnecessary.

7
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Coins On Aliexpress website
« on: April 02, 2025, 04:34:53 PM »
I just used ~50 bucks in coins on a 380 ish item in the coins section. Might have been a fluke ... or maybe the coins section works again?

8
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Aftermarket Brake Pads?
« on: February 14, 2025, 03:54:23 PM »
I use unbranded ones from the bundle deal section, where a set of 4 pairs (8 pcs) was less than 3 bucks. After breaking in, which does take a while, they are just fine. I would buy them again.

Just for reference: 4Pairs Bike MTB Semi-Metallic Disc Brake Pads For Shimano B01S G01S A01S XTR XT SLX Deore Sram Guide Level HRD Red Etap Magura

9
After almost 2 years, I still like my GUB 1166. It looks like a more classic shape (aka full-size saddle), has a slim nose with rounded sides, a wideish back, a generous relieve cut and a very slight "step" in the back (think sqlab, but without the pain, it's rather subtle and nicely rounded). After all that time, the upper has collected a few small scars, the clamping area looks slightly chafed and the saddle became a little creaky at the rear where it connects to the shell (not nice, but purely cosmetic), other than that it's still going strong and my butt still likes it. Not sure if they're still sold, though.


10
The DT Swiss are the best.
No. The low-measuring-force ones after the Jobst Brandt design would be superior (Wheel Fanatyk, Filip Kralyevski) - easier to handle and said to be much more accurate (not sure of the latter, tough, with (re)calibration always being an option).

11
but works in comparison between two spokes
Which kinda is what matters most. As for absolute spoke tension (or force), landing in the right ballpark is usually just fine. Says another non-pro. Also: Sure, you CAN build wheels without tensiometer ... but with it, it gets easier to build good wheels reliably with less guesswork.

12
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LEXON Road Carbon Crankset
« on: December 22, 2024, 02:36:53 PM »
Obviously this results in a +2mm q factor both sides ...
Meant to ask much earlier in this thread. Did you measure q?

13
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LEXON Road Carbon Crankset
« on: December 20, 2024, 05:18:47 AM »
To those still interested / persuade by this crankset you can clearly see the issue in my photo. The distance measured should be 92mm by their specifications.

I might be misreading the photo, but it looks like you left out the lock screw for the spider/chainring(?) It's not gonna poke out 4 mm, but just to get a clearer picture: how much would the distance be with the thing on?

14
Technically, even just plugging in a usb device is a security risk, no need to actively install shady stuff or anything. Is that option heavily utilised in the field? Probably not, but who knows.

So, instead of trying to figure out how to harden your daily driver, you might consider just getting any cheap phone/tablet with a half decent screen.

15
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LEXON Road Carbon Crankset
« on: November 21, 2024, 04:30:21 AM »
I can confirm the same. I bought another crankset and received it a few days ago. The weight came out to 401g WITH spider which is around 40g heavier than my old one.
As you can see in the picture below, it's the same lockring on both sides.
Ohhh, with "lock ring", you're referring to the crank bolt assembly, right? Damn, I was so confused when that first came up and the image to prove it showed something like an actual lock ring on one side and the split preload nut on the other ...

This does however mean that you can pissibly swop the dub spindle for a shorter one, if the interface accepts the normal bb386/bb30 interface.
I think those standards only tell you what the bb shell should look like, nothing about the spindle-to-crank interface ... of which there are several (for the same nominal spindle diameter). So, the question is if there are standards for the latter or every manufacturer does their own thing.

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