but works in comparison between two spokes

Which kinda is what matters most. As for absolute spoke tension (or force), landing in the right ballpark is usually just fine. Says another non-pro. Also: Sure, you CAN build wheels without tensiometer ... but with it, it gets easier to build good wheels reliably with less guesswork.

To those still interested / persuade by this crankset you can clearly see the issue in my photo. The distance measured should be 92mm by their specifications.

I might be misreading the photo, but it looks like you left out the lock screw for the spider/chainring(?) It's not gonna poke out 4 mm, but just to get a clearer picture: how much would the distance be with the thing on?

I can confirm the same. I bought another crankset and received it a few days ago. The weight came out to 401g WITH spider which is around 40g heavier than my old one.
As you can see in the picture below, it's the same lockring on both sides.

Ohhh, with "lock ring", you're referring to the crank bolt assembly, right? Damn, I was so confused when that first came up and the image to prove it showed something like an actual lock ring on one side and the split preload nut on the other ...

This does however mean that you can pissibly swop the dub spindle for a shorter one, if the interface accepts the normal bb386/bb30 interface.

I think those standards only tell you what the bb shell should look like, nothing about the spindle-to-crank interface ... of which there are several (for the same nominal spindle diameter). So, the question is if there are standards for the latter or every manufacturer does their own thing.

I have this crankset and it's a bit weird. Crankarms are bent in towards the frame a which reduces the q-factor but ...

Are you sure? I have the super cheap goldix cranks these seem to be a very close cousin of; perfectly straight arms, completely parallel to each other. I had always assumed those racework ones were the same thing out of the same factory just with slight cosmetic changes to the code and a little price markup.

except I would need a 46

You might want to ask the seller, as earlier in this thread, it was said it's a one-size item that you would have to cut down yourself.

I'm quite interested in the frame as its unique...
You dont see a cast magnesium frame frequently.

It certainly is a quirky conversation piece and I totally get buying odd stuff just for it being odd stuff.

I believe cast mg frames have been done in the 90s (or 80s?) and were already a bad idea back than with regard to both manufacturing and functional aspects of the product itself ... or an experiment, we could say, the nothing-ventured-nothing-gained kind of bold move.

I got some of those GIYO Bullet handlebar mitts that Shinobi_77 recommended for trying out.

No real-world experience in the cold yet, but a few additional pieces of more general info. Being rather huge slabs of 5 mm neoprene (it really is that thick) ... yea, the stated weight of roughly 300 g is very real. With the mtb version, you may have to restrict the amount of clutter on your bars. I assume, most brake levers and shifters would work OKish, but more than that might be a stretch. With a little force, I got them past Magura MT levers and very short inner bar ends, kinda works, but it's definitely on the tight side.
As for

getting in/out in a hurry (especially getting out in a matter of fractions of a second because unforeseen crap or signalling in city traffic)

I don't think that's much of an issue with these. The mouth is fairly wide and has no cuff - so as long as you remember to pull you hand back first (instead of moving to the side), you should be good.