Quote from: kbernstein on July 10, 2026, 01:34:28 AM
Titanium means walls can be made thinner for the same strength ... It might be stiffer but is there really a point in that for a freehub body?

With that kind of application, how about hardness? I think titanium grade 5 is quite a bit harder than most aluminium alloys (didn't check). Wouldn't matter for the OP personally if they had never issues with aluminium, though.

Quote from: Tijoe on December 31, 2025, 12:56:14 PM
You get locked into a "pannier" system where you can fit their "my perspective" heavy panniers/bags, and perhaps a few other brands that can be adapted to fit their racks system.

It's a pretty conventional rack with rails. Not sure, I'd call the need for hooks "locked in".

Quote from: Tijoe on December 31, 2025, 12:56:14 PM
... moving to drybags ...

What fabric and how do you fix them? I didn't have much luck with straps; with the constant vibrations and chaffing, they would abrade the fabric in no time (no catastrophic failure, you just get a lot of small holes).

Quote from: alfiomotrambo on December 22, 2025, 02:32:44 PM
never heard of KORE

There was a US(?) manufacturer (or distributor) with that name back in the heyday of boutique parts. No idea where their stuff actually came from, I would have assumed Taiwan, but that's just guessing. I perceived them as less bling and more budgety back then (but might have been wrong). Not much to tell, really, other than the name was a thing in the 90s.

Quote from: FigTree on December 13, 2025, 02:56:07 PM
The "gap" is between the NDS crank arm and collar and is filled by the thread the collar threads on. There are only 2 issues I see - 1. It looks strange and 2. I'm not sure how much of the thread is engaged on the collar with it adjusted as is, so could lead to issues.

OK, that makes sense. If you want to be on the safe side, just turn the collar back some and put spacers between it and the bb (assuming there are still spacers left (and that they're of the right size, as to not rub on the bb cup or anything)).

Quote from: Da11as on December 13, 2025, 10:43:06 AM

Quote from: FigTree on December 13, 2025, 06:36:05 AM
With the cranks installed and a 1mm spacer on the DS to get the crank arms spaced evenly, I have a 2mm ish gap between the preload collar and NDS crank arm- is this too much? It seems to week fine but it's a bit when looking down and seeing the gap. I'm considering installing a 1mm spacer between the preload collar and BB.

So there is nothing in the gap? You have to fill it with spacers, else there will be high risk of knee injury after it slips to the opposite side. But I bet you get into shifting problems first.

What?!

Did they change the design to one of those floating preload adjusters (where the male thread part is just shoved onto the axle and not part of the crank arm)?

Or are you saying that the preload collar doesn't have enough thread engagement anymore at this position? I don't know how long the thread is / how far you can screw the collar off before it gets risky. If the male thread is still part of the crank arm, you would definitely not fill up the gap between crank arm and preload collar with spacers. If the adjustment range isn't enough, you'd put the spacer(s) between the collar (the nut, so to speak) and the bb side.

Quote from: Tijoe on December 08, 2025, 10:55:44 AM
Is anyone into Marino Wool base layers for bikepacking?

I have a bunch of Ortovox Competition long sleeve tops and and pants (3/4 and full length). They're slightly more fluffy and way more stretchy than the typical super basic paper thin merino jersey base layer stuff. I like them a lot for bike touring (even just under a t shirt in mixed weather or as pj/lounge wear in the tent), but also as winter underwear in general. They used to be on sale a lot (50-60 Euro range for the tops). Nowadays, the closest should be their 230 Competition line, where a long sleeve top might go for 70 or slightly less with a bit of luck. Not really cheap, but if it's anything like the old stuff, it's kinda worth it. That's what I'd consider normal prices. I'd never get them at the 100+ msrp, though (I don't think anybody does).

Quote from: jackie on November 21, 2025, 01:57:57 AM
i just order a odinzeus k1 saddle and it came damage . some delaminated portion or trap air near the cutout that didnt allow the full compaction of the carbon fiber. I send the photo to the guy at odinzeus ...

You can't really tell anything from that photo. Did you try to make a video showing the hollow(?) portion flexing or anything?

Weirdly enough, just returning stuff is often way easier than getting a fault acknowledged.

Quote from: Chiyou on November 19, 2025, 03:49:30 PM
IceToolz E272 ... is meant for removing paint while the Park Tools one is a proper facing tool (i.e. it can clean up carbon fiber).

If it could remove paint in the way it's supposed to (by cutting, not by mauling through with excessive pressure), it would fair well at carbon, too. If the pictures are anything to go by, that is a big IF, though.

Apart from that, agreed, it's not all that useful without the alignment bits and bobs.

Quote from: toxin on November 19, 2025, 12:33:03 PM
These types of tools have been on ali for a while. What I'm waiting for are brake mount facing tools.

At that price with t47 taps? I haven't been able to find many ...

Now, granted, if you already had a cyclus tool and only needed the t47 taps, you could probably get a set at a similar price. But still, it is an interesting find.

Quote from: chinapal on November 06, 2025, 01:09:41 PM
If I could replace this piece I can still use the crank set. It's a shame to throw it away for such a small part.

I'm not completely sure, what the first picture (previous post) is showing, but I guess the top part of the extractor cap broke off, leaving the threaded part behind in the crank - is that correct? In this case, shouldn't the crank still be usable as is? You just can't pull it (unless you remove the thread and put in the intact cap of the other crank arm, which you took off (without breaking it) for the second/third picture, I assume).

Don't trust me, just crystal balling here.

Apart from that, the way this thing looks, your best bet would be the manufacturer ... or have it made as a turning job.

Quote from: jonathanf2 on October 23, 2025, 12:27:46 PM
25mm offset carbon seat post with 1 bolt:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808148195352.html

I've been looking at that one for a while now. The clamp design sucks, but the post could actually provide some give. Anybody know of a 400 mm version?

Careful with getting another axle too quickly. There are several different types of tapered splined axle-crank interfaces. Just make sure they're compatible beforehand.

Quote from: Tijoe on October 22, 2025, 06:18:21 PM
   I thought this thread was about a new variation of bicycles primarily for bicycle camping.

I would have liked that too, but I also really like the name (seriously, it's funny in an odd but non cringe way, waiting for Fruity Bikes next). I associate "camp" predominantly with Subaru women ... which kinda does fit the theme of camping. COINCIDENCE?!

Try to contact customer service and just keep pushing, explain how the seller plays dumb, provide pictures. Worst case, you lost an additional hour or so.

I didn't follow this thread to closely, would your credit card company (still) let you pull back the payment?

As this ship has definitely sailed by now (and I'm the only person left on this planet whose knees aren't compatible with cowboy-stance cycling), this is just some unrelated rambling: At this point I couldn't care less about the last 20 g shaved off of an already crazy light crank set. Moderately lightweight is fine, just give us some narrower options instead. 150 mm on a road bike?! That's crazy.