Quote from: SillyMochi on June 27, 2025, 04:52:10 AM
Ok fair enough. But what pressure calculator from hell are you using?

I'm running 28C on my road bike. I'm 85kg, so I use 95kg as system weight. Even for dry conditions, the recommendations I get are well below 70psi - and that's with inner tubes on perfect smooth tarmac. I usually run 62/67 for dry and 60/62 for wet. Wouldn't dare to go higher even if I technically could up to 95 psi.

Let me step in. Good roads, 28C, 78Kg system weight: 80 PSI according to SILCA.
I'm ussually around that number (78 back, 76 front) Maybe a couple of PSIs lower on winter.

A marginal gain in aerodynamics for a skinnier tire at front.
I remember my 2016 Canyon Speedmax coming with 23C at front and 25C at back from factory.

100% on SRAM for TT.
Ideally, 1X, but exact gearing depends on your W/CdA ratio and usual races terrain.

Leonardi comes in 9-46 or 9-48. Not cheap.

Quote from: jonathanf2 on February 24, 2025, 07:48:45 PM
Can I test a prototype frameset? I can ride it hard in several km/mi of California desert dirt! 

I'm in for beta tester also!! Costa Blanca is also a nice playground for Gravel (full of rocks and rough, besides being a worldwide cycling destination) 

Quote from: PJW on January 31, 2025, 11:23:32 AM
Any thoughts on the performance of these wheels in cross winds?

I'm interested in getting a pair of either these Serenades, or another set of wavy/undulated wheels from xmcarbonspeed, LightCarbon, Farsports, or Yuanan. However, I'm skeptical that there's been any real testing to prove they improve performance in cross winds. The aesthetics do not match my bike very well, so if there is not a performance benefit, I'll probably just purchase a more traditional 50mm rim.

From what I can see, the Light Bicycle Falcon Pro and Elite Wheels Drive Helix seem closest to the Zipp and Princeton designs, but they're out of my price range.

Sorry for late response.
I got pair of wave wheels (Nextie 45-50) from about 8 months and 4K Km. They perform really well. I live in a really step zone, so a lot of climbs and fast descends. Only one freaky moment, on a fast descend (about 80 Kmh) with about 30 Kmh crosswind. Nothing to scare about, but to be aware of it. I'm used to 80mm profiles on TT Bikes, and this wheels are night and day compared to that.

I race 100-120Km gravel races. Depending on terrain, from 3 to 6hs. And still looking for lower stack at 44 yo. Every case is a single case...
Also, shorter CX races in Winter.

Quote from: Rolle2k on February 20, 2025, 08:35:38 AM
anyway, my point is : if you don't do competition riding - i think most people would do better with a higher stack frame.

100% agree on that.

Quote from: Rolle2k on February 20, 2025, 04:24:58 AM
Half the point in building a bike (at least for me) is to build one with geometry which suits my liking/riding.
And for a race road bike - it would (in my opinion) be ok with low stack, and a more aggressive positioning. But for anything else - leasure rides, communting, or a bit harsher terrain i think it is always better to have a bit more relaxed position - doesnt give neck problems in the long run, and better control in rowdy terrain. Actually for gravelbike in general i think ultra low stack is never needed.
The same applies to headtube angle - that is also to personal liking... i think 71-72 is great for the type of riding i like and mostly do - if you go harsher terrain i understand you go down to maybe 70. If more than that is needed, we are into MTB territory imo.
This is just my opinion, nothing else. And as said, stack is always fixable with spacers - but i would rather look at another frame with more stack.
Both frames does have it's positives and drawbacks - but for me, GV201 does have the biggest drawbacks of the two.

lidation who started the thread asked for opinions, and the above are my opinions.

I like that there are low stack frames like Tidace, for 2 main reasons:
I'm 1.70, but but short legs and long torso. So, I need the stack to be as low as possible. Anything above 530 is too much for me.
Also, I race gravel, an some races are most like road races than really rough terrain. Aero is a must.
Currently I race a Van Rysel RCX, but the limitation of 40mm tires and high stack send me to the search for a new frame.

Quote from: kurrante on December 10, 2024, 03:41:21 PM
Tried today. DTs Ratchet LN original body fits perfectly in the D272 hub. Didn't measure the bearings, but they are ceramic 6802. My hubs didn't have the famous 11mm allen hole. The cap just pull off with my hands.

Thanks for the data!! The cap is also the same?
My idea is to get the wheels with Shimano freehub and get a DT-Swiss LN XDR freehub, as I got SRAM groupset. (XDR is not available in Spanish warehouse).

Quote from: McMadigan on February 19, 2025, 10:28:21 AM
Marya from serenadebikes told me, that in Spain is no stock and only wheel repair.


@ wandulus
@ Avalius

Who is your contact person?

I wrote via Whatsapp to Marya.

Write yesteday for a set, still no answer on whatsapp.

What's a good option for an integrated handlebar for this frame? Lenox one?

Quote from: AFE on February 12, 2025, 03:43:06 AM
Frame is 43 (36 is the same as 43)
Fork and chainstay are UD Black Glossy

https://imgur.com/a/SzR352d

Thanks!!
That was my choice, 36 or 43! 
Now I now why they look almost the same.

Quote from: AFE on February 11, 2025, 09:54:19 AM
Closed to finish

Really Nice!!
What's the color code you choose?

Crankset from Driveline and SRAM AXS Powermeter (The one with direct mount and for 107 BCD Chainrings).
I got 2 sets of that for 2 years and working flawlessly. Also, the spindle is 24mm, way better than 29mm DUB from SRAM.