Thanks for posting the picture. Made me go look up bearing code differences :-)

Seems like this might be worth doing as preventive maintenance. How easily do the bearings slip in/out? Is it a fingers job or would I need the right drifts?

I used two sockets and a bench vise and they popped out pretty smoothly. One the same size as the bearing and the other large enough to support the jockey wheel and allow the hearing to pass into. You could make a drift with a bolt and washer and use a socket on the other side for the bearing to pull into.

Take care when pressing the new ones in to make sure they are even. My first attempt the bearing was a bit skewed so I had to remove and redo.

Curious what size jockey wheels are used on the EGR? Goldix have a few steel bearing jockey wheels and LTwoo seems to use off-the-shelf parts when possible. Would any of these match?

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396383834.html

These look exactly like the ones on the eGR rear mech, but with black bearing covers. Note the 626Z metallic shield bearings.

I completed a 115km back country gravel event in Corner Brook, Newfoundland last week which was on terrain everywhere from tame to knarly, with some rain, mud, puddles, water crossings...

My RD didn't suffer from water ingress, but at the end of the event my watts were not making sense. When I got home, found that the two jockey wheels were completely locked up. They use 626Z bearings, which have metal shields and are not sealed like their 626RS counterparts.

I've sourced some bearings at the local Wajax but also have a request sent to LTWOO to warranty the jockey wheels. I've got maybe 1000km on this group since May.

Wondering if anyone has a recommendation for 14500 cells. I have a generic set from eBay but am suspicious of their capacity/reliability. Would like to have another set on hand to try.

I have my 2017 Giant TCX switched over from R8000 Ultegra with the clutched RX800 RD to the eGR group. My cranks are GXP so running 42t paired with a Sunshine 12s 11-46 and a SRAM NX Eagle 12s chain (for now until the KMC x12 chains arrive). I originally purchased 12s Shimano chains but the inner width is too tight for the SRAM narrow wide chainring. The chainring is 11s but works fine with the 12 chain.

It's all setup and dialed in nicely. I have R8070 Di2 on my Madone and the shifting is as precise IMO.

I did use some 8 mm heat shrink tube to cover the cable connector to help avoid water ingress. If using a heat gun be cautious, the cable itself can easily overheat and get soft.

The point I wanted to let everyone know is that I would suggest checking the 3 T10 screws that face towards the floor. During my setup one fell to the floor. I added some blue thread locker and snugged all three. Unsure of a torque spec but the seems like they would strip threads easy so take it easy if you do this.