I'm thinking of buying it, I started a thread about the same frame a d someone commented that it's an open mold of the Ari Shafer. That frame has good feedback online.

I've been eyeing a frame to replace my 2017 Giant TCX cyclocross frame set, it's just too stiff to enjoy longer rides or rougher terrains.

This frame set is sold by a couple companies, Angel or Mondince FM306, CWind G40, maybe Light Cycle FM306 as well.

It has a long reach and high stack, but a 68.9° headtube angle and long wheel base. Has anyone picked this or have any impressions on the geometry?

https://www.anglecycle.com/2024-full-carbon-fiber-udh-hanger-max-700-50mm-tire-t47-bracket-fully-internal-cable-routing-gravel-bike-frame.html

Hi Everyone,

I am looking at picking up a new gravel frame, I currently ride a 2018 Giant TCX (Size M), setup below. While it is fast and fun, it's very stiff and the geometry is twitchy on the rough stuff.

There is a lot of "Gucci" gravel in my area, the old railbed has been repurposed as a maintained multi-purpose trail, but also a lot of woods roads and trails that are fun to explore, until the bike makes you feel everything too much.

On the road I've been in the Trek family a while, riding 54 cm Domane and now a Madone, with around 25 mm of headset spacers and a 110 mm stem on my bars.

Current Road Bike
Trek Domane SL7
54 cm
25 mm headset spacers
110 mm stem
Integrated bar (80 mm reach, 125 mm drop)

Current "Gravel" Bike
2018 Giant TCX
M
5 mm headset spacers
90 mm stem
SWork Hover bar (15 mm rise, 75 mm reach, 123 mm drop)
40c Tufo Thundero on 24 inner width wheels

https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/trek-madone-2021-54-cm,giant-tcr-advanced-pro-disc-2018-m/

I am around 178 cm and my inseam with the wall test is 81 cm.

I'd like to move to a frame that can accommodate 50 mm tires so I can run 48c Thundero and have geometry that is a little more stable off road. I've read through threads here but am asking if anyone has a recommendation to offer.

Thanks in advance.

Hi,

I have a couple minor issues with my eGR group set but for this post just going to focus on the brake calipers. I've followed the manual for bleeding, and also some videos on YouTube. I'm familiar with hydraulic disc brakes, so I'm comfortable with the idea and processes, but for the life of me I cannot keep my rear caliper from slowly closing in on the rotor. I reset the pistons and do a quick bleed check, but every couple weeks I'll head to the garage and my rear brake lever is locked solid and the pads are on the rotor.

Any ideas? I'm nearing the point of buying different calipers.

Thanks
Andrew in Newfoundland, Canada

By chance, did you take pictures?

See the photo below. Will try to get the video uploaded this weekend. The 626RS cost me $3 each at a local bearing ship.

By chance, did you take pictures?

I haven't, but LTWOO has requested a photo and video of the failed bearings. I'll share here later when I have a moment to capture them.

Vapcell F12 14500 from Liion Wholesale. I got 4 for $16. Vapcells are a favorite of flashlight community.

Thanks for this.