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Messages - MDZPNMD

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1
I forgot to ask.

I read that some people experienced lots of play in the folding mechanism of the airwolf YFR035.

What is your experience with the Kabon and BXT frame, any play in the folding mechanism? Any noticeable downsides of the frames QC wise? Any issues like a noisy BB?

2
Is that one of yours?

3
Yeah, it's a normal steel frame, built up from scratch - with rear triangle(480g) and Fork(275g) from a S2LX.
Frame clocks in at 2150g
Apart from that without going into every screw...

carbon seatpost (225g) and handlebar (75g)
custom built hubsmith wheelset, (419g and 551g)
Scorcher tires (325g)
Ridenow TPU inner tubes
Litepro crankset (372g)
litepro 58t Chainring (102g)
VPone pedals with Ti spindles (148g/pair)

sounds like a great build, but also pricier. How did you get the fork?
Compared to this Kabon you save 100g on the seatpost and probably around 150-200g on the wheelset.

What shifter/rear derailleur do you use or do you use a Brompton solution?

Your frame+fork+seatpost combo might only be around 200g heavier. Makes you wonder how over engineered the Kabon must be, it should be around 200-400g lighter than the Ti Brompton but is actually heavier..

I wish there was a light carbon folding bike frame but so far only came across the Brompton Ti, Kabon, BXT and clones, the Kabon seems to be the only choice

4
The Kabon has been something I have been eyeing for a long time but due to the 1X configuration, I went with the BXT instead which has a round seat column which supports a clamp on front derailleur. In the end, I stayed 1X as the clamping is just not necessary for a folding commuter. So I passed it to a relative in the family and finally bought the KABON

Components list:
Groupset: Sensah Empire Pro (12S) - Rear derailleur, carbon version of the shifters (easily available to search on Aliexpress through Sensah Official Store or LingMai who is a trusted seller)

Wheelset: Non-branded 20x451 carbon clincher disc wheelset (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004341879551.html)

Tire: IRC Jetty Plus 20x1-1/8 (buy what you like)

Carbon head steerer: Sourced is from a Taobao seller; the steerer comes with M23*1.0 lock nut. If your steerer uses a M20*1.0 version, you need to get the M20 version else the mounting column will not fit (https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?_u=l1uad1v69da3&id=821991830494&pisk=gRs_sF_l3fc_Mv-xhF2eFCX6QTxVcJrzDx9AEtnZHhK9lmBNNKo2uPvjcB68ICz0Ss_CM6Yw6I82cK1ytOo4IOybctBJ6n7w_KCFG60N_iRVTo6lNFoNHikG-_W-bGzM0miMmnFzaurPQOxDD3eJSdhgvLJ70mL96hxKaCMayurPIOxDD7Pz4iog71pskmCxW23ptKGvMnCvvkpX9cpxXKhLdBAKMjp9BvppnLm9DmLvvkpwhjn9DIEppBvvDjpAM9eB3Bdx_kcB3P9ACR4cpNsQgFX9OmnAXhY6Gggqcm1JBFgMWB6FLM965Q8H3CZRX6WAbGY3oq-cLa1fks4r-h6AWhpPIliB2OQFcpS43qOOLM6dcUMYeQIGpgxp8ue5pMfNIM6qHopFaBBGX3hLmpjNHGTfcSgDbaWPmUITfbAerK1wT_E-AHLA41iyNzoZlvToDpggdJgmoHCuxA4YUYOMWpvT4JwIOqcoDmuh0Jgx7FpHBNwQdXGA.&spm=a1z09.2.0.0.314c2e8d9iL2cz)

Replacement fork mounting lock nut: M20*1.0 (https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?from=cart&id=754132743093&pisk=ggHjFGGnbZbbwSeOfSxzAVAwCLwal3JFCGZtxcBVX-eY5Risv5Bwi-P_C4Ur3ro4Hico8DBq3I2NCt2gBe8eLpoqmR2T2sDXbZj8xlJaDsUYn8Esn_8pLpommR298eJEQtj4BofOBVCAy7UuvoBY6VFRel4RHlBYXaK7rzETXOUTy0EUx1IxWtB82lrgXZUTk0p8XzUTBSCx23ZgyoeTBjt1PlRbXmtDeWzpxdQROWXOBYZbwWoYk7VWboPXwmalBujuqSsqDz6OBYczpgP3kBjzS-zmxogMKt2Y1Xmafq9fHVinE4Z-Jd6Uk0mETSDvK1VQBPNL2vKNtzk7uVHbwHWQ_8HU9-hyZEPahleYtbxGgPhtAvwquUXTuXi-PWkPz9yirf3Tf4Qf4k6URBWV1gNhBu1DV31Gs83HEiqqJ6LLMuqvL3t5P1bhBO5oQ31OgSEuDjtWVa_O.&skuId=5201071729816&spm=a1z0d.6639537%2F202410.item.d754132743093.3e087484w7V0RX)

From my existing spares lying around: carbon handlebar and stem, saddle, some spare Ti bolts to replace the rear racks mount screws that are made of steel.

Build Note: I set up the build from the comfort of my own home. Cabling was relatively smooth with some minor snag to route the housing correctly to the rear brake and derailleur correctly. Once that sorted it is quite straightforward as the rest of the process is mounting the head steerer, seatpost, rotors on wheelset, tires, and the usual alignment job.

Tire clearance from bare rim without tire is 5cm high and 6cm wide, rear is about 5cm heigh and 5 cm wide.

Can you elaborate on the BXT, is the frame heavier? Lighter? stiffer? Pros and cons?

Also how did oyu get the carbon seatpost for the Kabon? I can only see the aluminium one online

5
Nice built - heavier than one would expect though.
My Brompton with steel frame is slimmed down to close to 8kg for reference - that's a surprise.

Would be interested to know your build.

The Kabon frame should be around 1,2-2kg lighter than the Brompton steel frame or 0,3kg heavier than the TI version.
Disc brakes should also add like 500g and road bike shifters and handlebar are also heavier and sensah not the lightest but completely fine for a budget build.

Kabon Frame:

Frame 1,4kg
Fork 0,4kg
Standard Seatpost: 0,544kg
carbon seatpost: 0,385

Brompton Frame Weight by Material:

    Steel frame (standard Brompton):

        Main frame (steel): around 2.0 to 2.3 kg (~4.4 to 5.1 lbs)

        Rear triangle and fork (steel): about 1.1 to 1.5 kg combined

    Superlight (Steel + Titanium mix):

        Main frame (steel): similar to standard, around 2.0 kg

        Titanium rear triangle and fork: significantly lighter — around 0.9 kg total

    T Line (full titanium frame):

        Entire frame (main frame + rear triangle + fork): about 1.5 kg total (~3.3 lbs)

6
Yesterday I thought about building this thing and today I find your post. What a pleasant coincidence.

Why the switch from the BXT?

Your build is great, do you mind posting some links or search words for the new steerer and maybe the components you've used or a components list?
Where did you get the seatpost? My biggest concern was breaking it and being unable to get a replacement.

How much tire clearance do you have? I assume you'd probably be faster and more efficient changing to 32-50mm continental contact urban tires despite the weight penalty. Especially with smaller wheels wider tires compensate for the smaller contact patch and rolling resistance penalty on uneven terrain.

Please keep this post going, I greatly enjoy it

8
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Light Saddle and bottle cage
« on: September 16, 2023, 08:22:29 AM »
They might be too big but most smaller bottles fit fine e.g. wine bottles, beer bottles, activeO2 bottles, 1l coke pet-bottles, beer or cider cans,...

9
I also got the VBR168 and it rides like a charm.

I spent around 2,5k to build it from mostly chinese parts and the only thing that bugs me is the cheap sunshine cassette and that I can't get 1 gear to work flawlessly with the Ltwoo RX12. Weights around 6,8 kg, replaced the brake fluid with bionol so I can safely run ultralight 140mm rotors and brakes

I also jumped around 1 to 2 metres over a kicker with it recently and the paint around the BB cracked but everything else is fine. If it withstands that than it's built like a tank.

10
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Light Saddle and bottle cage
« on: September 16, 2023, 06:10:46 AM »
I use these for multiple years now:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003439269539.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.2b075c5f02s4MQ&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu

I ride them on my street bike and later got them for my roadbike too.

They are not a big investment as they are super cheap, they carry anything from the standard bidons to beer or wine bottles, you can bend them within limits to perfectly fit your bottles and they weight slightly under 20g while being super secure.

You can also get them made from carbon but I wouldn't spend 4 times as much to save 5g per bottle cage and you can't bend them.

For the saddle I would sacrifice 20g in weight savings and get the mixed ultralight one, it's not the most sturdy one but comfy. I used to ride a 69g bare carbon saddle before that and wouldn't want to go back.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005071499395.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.3ca83135Xtgkmr&algo_pvid=7eccf18a-b082-43e9-b4ba-99eac7cb5b63&algo_exp_id=7eccf18a-b082-43e9-b4ba-99eac7cb5b63-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2145.96%2131.25%21%21%21347.62%21%21%4021038eda16948625352083627e14ca%2112000031526379429%21sea%21DE%21758736322%21S&curPageLogUid=MYOhfVU590Hk

I also tried the 3d printed ones and can't recommend them unless you are really tall but lightweight

11
Thanks for your help

On another note, my Frame arrived today.

What's your opinion on this steerer tube?

It looks like there is a part chuipped or is missing under where the bearing is seated, is it a reason for concern for you guys or do you think it is fine? (see picture)


In my case BB and brake mounts are not faced correctly and the workshop of my choice has no tools for it.

Would you simply install the BB and hope for the best or attempt a DIY solution like using wetstones or sandpaper on a piece of glass to face them?

In general it seems quite good besides the non perfect inside of the BB, the non faced bb, the non faced brake mounts and also my endoscope showed that they forgot to remove the innter tube correctly from the top tube and some piece of the tube is left in it, gonna have to rip it out and save 2 grams.

Frame comes in at around 1045g in size 54 including thru axle and front derailleur mount

12
The hanger is two pieces, which I describe as inner and outer. The inner piece is always the actual “hanger” piece that connects to the derailleur. The inner and outer pieces sandwich the frame if that makes sense. The stock derailleur hanger set has the threads on the inner piece with the actual hanger part. The stock outer piece is just a piece of metal that is secured to the frame with a tiny bolt. I didn’t like that because if that tiny little bolt fails (and I’ve had it happen) then the outer piece falls off, which means the frame dropout isn’t secure. The thru axle will keep the wheel in place secured to the hanger, the frame won’t have any attachment points. So the frame is really only secured with the tiny bolt.

With the Cube hanger set, the threads are moved to the outer piece. So now you get the inner piece with the hanger, then the frame, then the outer piece with the threads. So now the thru axle connects to the outer piece and secures everything. Much more secure.

So what I bought is the inner piece (hanger with no threads) and a separate outer piece (with threads) and combined them to get the set.

Hope that makes sense.

Thanks eddy that helps.
To sum up you picked the following:

Color: YA00082P1 from this link:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005002284610381.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.3.5fe172b1PHWtWm&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.291025.0&scm_id=1007.13339.291025.0&scm-url=1007.13339.291025.0&pvid=47710f94-708c-4dab-9512-c81083bd549b&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.13339.291025.0%2Cpvid%3A47710f94-708c-4dab-9512-c81083bd549b%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238109%231935&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21USD%2114.61%217.3%21%21%21%21%21%402103251316846751104572746e8fd2%2112000019912693538%21rec%21US%211815174450&gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt

and Color: Large Nut-1.5pitch from this link:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005001741343749.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.33.3d7018025WYVvj&gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt

and then you made the hole wider on the innerpiece/actual hanger/Color: YA00082P1 , correct?

13
Yea, sort of. It's the Cube hanger. There are 2 ways to do it. The first link has 2 different hangers and you could use either with some mods. The 906 inner piece fits the frame, but the hole is too small. The 784 outer piece is the correct piece you need, and the hole is the right size, but the "neck?" is too wide and doesn't fit. So I actually bought both and modded them. So you either drill the hole slightly bigger on the 906 to fit the outer piece. Or you can trim the 784 a bit to get it to fit. I did both but ended up sticking with the 906.

The 2nd link is for a different outer piece with a 1.5 thread pitch to match the stock thru axle. So if I did it again, I'd buy the 906 from the first link and the outer piece from the 2nd link, then drill out the 906. It's a very small amount and took like 2 minutes.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802098295629.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.3.5fe172b1PHWtWm&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.291025.0&scm_id=1007.13339.291025.0&scm-url=1007.13339.291025.0&pvid=47710f94-708c-4dab-9512-c81083bd549b&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.13339.291025.0%2Cpvid%3A47710f94-708c-4dab-9512-c81083bd549b%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238109%231935&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21USD%2114.61%217.3%21%21%21%21%21%402103251316846751104572746e8fd2%2112000019912693538%21rec%21US%211815174450&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801555028997.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.33.3d7018025WYVvj&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

I'm about to order the parts as you describe, by inner piece you mean the hanger right and by outer piece you mean the nut?

So inner piece or hanger from the first link and the complete set including the nut from the second link with the 1.5 threading, is that correct?

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