It looks like you can finally buy the new FSA SMR II stem. It is a -10, but if you run it for internal routing, there is quite a bit of drop at the bar clamp because of the design.  I suspect this stem will result in a position lower than the -17 degree option from SQ lab.

Unfortunately, stems aren't dimensioned to reflect eventual bar height as stack clamping height and drop at the bar clamp can be hard to find. I expect to pick one of these up in the next few weeks, as soon as I can get one from a source other than BikeInn in the 130mm length.

It's a decent price and available in the 120mm size here: https://www.gambacicli.com/en/fsa-ns-smr-ii-10-road-stem.html

The Specialized Sworks Tarmac -12 stem is lighter, and I can confirm that at the 130mm length, the bar position is equal, height wise, to a 130mm -17 Kalloy Uno.

Yeah getting something non chinese QC'd and supported for electronics is probably the most reliable long term, but the price and huge user base of the magene is super attractive for a first time power meter user.

@Sakizashi thats a killer deal! thanks for sharing. Although maybe you can help me with this... I'm mechanically inclined but when it comes to bikes I've been having to do a ton of research regarding what fits what, what components can work together etc, as there seems to be a vast difference of standards between brands lol.
So correct me if Im wrong.
I have a shimano 105 r7100 52/36 crankset being shipped to my house currently that I got from aliex for $120. (which is why I was looking at left sided shimano crank arms originally) To use the rotor brand, Id need to get a 30mm t47 bb for my frame instead of the t47 24mm that I currently had ordered with it? + a different spider to support the shimano gears I already have? Or just go full rotor gears as well? The only reason I was wanting to keep shimano gears was simply because I ordered an 8100 series cassette/chain for hyperglide+ ability (not sure if its worth the extra or not but figured I'd try it) and wasn't sure If a different crankset would affect that, but as far as I can tell HG+ is only at the rear.

I would confirm this with Rotor, but I believe you would need a 30mm T47 BB, and Rotor chainrings. The chain and cassette you ordered will work fine. I would also get a spacer kit with 0.5 and 1mm spacers.

If ENVE recommends 27c tyre as best aero optimized for 25iw, then for sure you can run 30c on 26iw... That's my logic anyways.

ENVE has a specific list of tires tested to work specifically with their rims. There is no generalizable design principle here that can be applied to other wheels as the problem lies with the tire geometry, rim geometry, and the tire-rim interface

There are two sets of somewhat conflicting general recommendations. There are the ETRTO-based charts from the tire makers earlier in the thread, but also their general recommendation that there be a minimum of 5mm between the marked tire width and the rim's inner width. Many brands, including ENVE, Zipp, and Hunt, do not like either recommendation. Ultimately, those in favor (Continental, Mavic, etc.) won out, and the UCI adopted the 5mm recommendation as a rule. This forced teams like UAE to use the 30mm GP5000 S TR and move away from the 28mm TT TR tire.

This became an issue because of a bunch of high-profile tire blowoffs, largely on Zipp wheels, that resulted in injury to pro riders. However, there are also a lot of anecdotal blowoffs of other brands as well that you can find by searching other forums.

At the least, I would follow the 5mm rule on this one and run 32mm tires, as the consequences of a blowoff are the same as rolling a tubular tire off the wheel--if it's on the front, you will likely crash. I plan to follow both the tire maker charts and the 5mm rule, as I like not crashing.

I don't know that much about tandem design, but this builder does Z-style couplers, which might be a nice upgrade vs. S&S.

That's awesome! Well done! How do you find your clients / market to your clients?

I do place some ads. I've worked with a few smaller teams and sold stuff to mechanics associated with some larger ones. Sometimes when verifying addresses, I get some interesting additional details. The one thing that confounds me is how many pro athletes, cycling-related and otherwise, have bought dynaplug holders. I have no idea how these people found me, but I won't complain.

Doh! I just realized you and I have already spoken on Instagram in the past. You offer up great products my friend! May need you to design a lower stack FSA no69 headset cover 

Yeah, I've sort of accidentally stepped into a gap for people who are willing to give up compatibility with cables for lower stack or better aesthetics. I am sure I can do something that looks better than what FSA came up with. I have been getting TPU inserts printed too so that hole isn't massive.

We can talk at at length about internal cable routing systems and their design, but specific to buying a frame direct from a factory, I would make sure to buy one that takes a 1.5" upper and lower bearing. Putting in a decent-quality headset is an excellent thing to do when building up a bike, but also, these systems require pretty high preloads, and some of the cheaper stuff doesn't seem to handle it well.

I am sort of the opposite of @patliean1 in the sense that I have zero inclination to be an influencer and will probably never make a YouTube video about bikes. However, I do sustain my bike hobby through a bike accessory business which is largely done via 3d prints. It has also allowed me to afford a few adjacent projects/prototypes, including (e.g., a Ti frame, modified track bars for road, and picking parts for a new wheelset to test some thoughts around the Conti 111 tire).

The 1st was a bad business idea, the 2nd was a missed opportunity, and the 3rd I expected the tariff situation to kill, but it's led me to a more long-term purchase mentality for frames. In that vein, three frames are interesting choices, IMO for going the low-cost China route.

• Speeder SC-R55D: I have never bought a frame from them, but I do have experience with their forks and bars / stem combos, and I believe in their quality. The use of UDH is a plus for future compatibility, but also because bent hangers are the thing that i hated most about my open mold frames and why all my bikes currently run the same hanger (the syntace x12)
• Bigrock Sohtea Team (or regular): I think with the Panda Podium sale, this fits in your budget, and with some good FB marketplace / eBay skills, you might be able to also work in a wheel upgrade. The thing I like about this frame is that it uses a round seatpost with an external seat clamp, so getting your position dialed will be easier/cheaper, and this, more than anything else aero will make you fast vs. slow. Also worth noting that slipping or stuck seat posts are a common frustration with cheap frames, so this one avoids that trap too.
• Ican FL1: if you are OK with a little more weight but don't want that horrible brand name, this is an alternative to the Bigrock. I

I haven't ridden any of these bikes, so I defer to others for their expertise, but I would consider these 3 bikes in your price range for those two reasons.

@toxin Peter showed me a picture of the 20h hub. It's 294g/set and slotted straight pull, not side entry.

The updated wheels will be nice when they are released. The only drawback I see is that, according to many manufacturers' charts, 26mm internal width needs a wider road tire than most people would want to run. I think I would feel comfortable with 32mm on those wheels, following the rough ETRTO guidance, but that's at odds with the charts from Conti and Schwalbe.

I am planning to accelerate some planned purchases this week or next. I am not going to stock up on consumables though, as the tech is evolving fast enough that it doesn't matter for most items vs. their lifetime that it doesn't make sense to buy those and stash them for a year or more. (i.e., sitting on a stash of tires and chains beyond having spares on hand isn't worth it).

I don't think we will see immediate action on the blanket tariff front. HTS codes are pretty complicated, and I expect to see a lot of lobbying for special treatment. Tariffs broadly applied will be like a sales tax, i think a very aggressive selective tariff regime designed to favor specific US industries is more likely as they can also be designed to limit the impact to things that effect the perceived cost of living (e.g., food). I also think a blanket tariff on all imported goods, while legally possible via executive order, would likely go to the courts because the courts made up the "major questions doctrine" to kill Biden's student loan forgiveness, and they can expect lawsuits using that same doctrine for any blanket policy unless its a law passed by congress.

If it ends up being more of a piecemeal implementation of tariffs and they do it by codes, I am hoping that it takes a while to get around to bike parts. However, an executive order to close the de minimus limit of $800 / day for imports to be tax-free is likely to happen sooner rather than later. It's already been drafted and considered by the Biden administration. This will affect many of us who buy from places like Aliexpress or sellers shipping from direct China, as we won't find our goods coming through tariff-free. We will find that we will be paying the 25% already imposed on bike part imports—which we are already paying on most parts imported to the US from China for resale at retail. Because this does not require congress to do anything, this is possible as a day 1 type action.