Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - gribs

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 15
1
I helped a friend build up hers with mechanical GRX and with 3 lots of foam cable covering the storage space is tiny.

2
Are there more people riding this frame? i feel like if there's 200+ pages on the 18D, there should be more pages on this thread.

It's hardly surprising when it's a lot more expensive. I bought one of Hambini's frames off him and have had it built up for a couple of weeks (Ultegra and XMCS 58mm wheels). It feels to ride smoother and slightly faster than my Light Carbon LCR017 but that could just be the new bike effect. The overall build quality and fit and finish does feel noticeably better.

3
Hi, is the SR318 a similar model to the SR308 on their website? A gravel model? It's on our list as well. Looking forward to more updates from you in the future if you'd be willing to share :)

Muddier races will be a tough test for the hubs – definitely curious to see how they hold up!

I'm guessing from their naming conventions they're just a slightly heavier version. Sander2177 on here had had them suggested as a well sealed unit for British winter so I copied his build. They appear to be as well built and sealed as the Hope or DT Swiss hubs I have on my mountain bikes.

4
I've got H-Works SR318 hubs with CX-ray spokes which were built into a wheelset last October by Zen that are still running perfectly after ~3k km for UK road miles. I'm ~100kg. I'm considering using them for cyclocross this winter for the muddier races.

6
Ben Cathro did an interesting piece on cleat position in mountain biking a couple of years ago. I've personally aways run my spd cleats as far back as they'll go and did the same when I got some spd-sl.

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/video-the-science-nehind-cleat-positioning-with-ben-cathro.html

7
I've found the best way to keep riding over winter is a smart trainer. It's easy enough to say to yourself you'll do 45 minutes of zone 2 in an evening, and do more when you can be bothered. Even 30 minutes is helpful if it's regular. it's not hard enough to have any real fatigue impact so I could still fit in real riding whenever I had the chance.

8
I'd trained well for it but the weather was perfect and I tried to ride as much of it in zone 2 as possible. Having a grx chainset and 11-42 cassette fitted helped too along with not really aiming for a time, just to get round.

It's only 12mm longer than my Light Carbon so in all honesty just feels like a road bike in that regard. I swap between multiple mtb's and a gravel bike so I'm used to much greater variance. The biggest compliment I can pay it is that it felt stable when I wasn't paying attention but steered quickly when I needed it. The front end seems much stiffer than the Light Carbon but more comfortable. I'm using 32mm GP5000's on both with deeper rims on the XMCS.

9
I've just built up a XMCS gran turismo frameset that I picked up second hand from Hambini and I'm impressed. It built up really easily and from a quick 50km ride this morning it feels really smooth and comfortable compared to my Light Carbon LCR017, which in turn was an improvement on my old Ribble. I did the Fred on the LCR017 and friends at the end were surprised how relaxed and un knackered I was.

10
29er / Re: 2026/27 full-suspension XC
« on: August 26, 2026, 10:10:18 AM »
The next major change will probably be to 32" wheels unless they're banned and they are unlikely to work well for shorter riders.

I've been considering building up a xc full sus but buying a frame from China makes no sense when I could pick up a BMC fourstroke 3 complete bike brand new for £2k. The market in the UK for non powered mountain bikes is basically dead.

11
Have you asked them whether the stem & spacers from the LCR017S-D frame set (which they don't have listed separately) fits?

It'll definitely fit as I swapped out that stem on my LCR017 for the HBR17 bars when they were released. It's solid but very heavy.

12
Well that's sad. Just add a couple of hundred dollars more and you'll get XMCS.

It's more like an extra $900 once you add bars, paint and shipping to make it equivalent.

13
Maintenance, Mechanics, & Tools / Re: heat failure TPU tube
« on: August 10, 2026, 12:02:16 PM »
It's a known issue. My spare rim brake road bike has butyl tubes for this reason as the weight saving isn't worth the risk.

14
I can see the benefit but running a 2x system I don't have room through the headset for another cable and don't see a good place to mount the lever. I grew up on 90's mountain bikes so I have the memory of riding the type of stuff I ride now on a gravel bike on bikes that were much worse in terms of tyres and brakes. For longer rough descents I'll just get an Allen key out like I used to back then. All my current mountain bikes have them though and they have a huge impact on helping beginners ride more confidently off road.

I suspect they're not standard fit on more gravel bikes as the category is primarily aimed at roadies and they add weight and cost, but they're the ones who would benefit most.

15

I'm not complaining, and I don't need to check anything. From experience I'm sure that with a tire at 4 bar, a 90 kg cyclist, considering the bad road conditions, manhole covers etc., has a very high probability of bottoming out the rim on the road. It wasn't a performance or efficiency discussion, just about preserving the wheelset — and by running a bit more pressure the tire absorbs impacts better. Then, if the Silca calculator guys pay for any damage to the rim, I'll run the pressure they recommend.

I'm telling you that as someone who is 95kg and riding on roads in England that running 65psi on modern wide tyres on modern rim widths doesn't result in a high probability of bottoming out. If it did I'd expect to have had pinch flats running aliexpress TPU tubes or perhaps I'm just lucky/careful.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 15