The Kocevlo cockpit is on the short list, but I’m not sure if it will fit mechanically shifting

it does fit mechanical shifting. Scott has 1-1/4 inch steering tube so it won't fit

I wouldn't buy fakes from Ali. if you need 1-1/4 handlebar search for "od2 integrated cockpit" and get something from a Chinese "brand". I had one from spcycle and it was decent https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004262480157.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.2201s9Z4s9Z4yL&algo_pvid=9ab31ee7-bce4-4a9f-a33b-025615a20e42&algo_exp_id=9ab31ee7-bce4-4a9f-a33b-025615a20e42-1&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21PLN%21384.83%21384.79%21%21%2190.60%2190.59%21%40211b628117370177477321886e7ef0%2112000028560212289%21sea%21PL%21125883956%21X&curPageLogUid=Tfz0aVYxr5FZ&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

Changed over to MyWhoosh from IndieVelo with the impending changeover spring 2025.

What's the deal with the ERG on MyWhoosh?  It seems to barely function for me no matter how I connect my power meter and Saris H3 smart trainer.

I have problems with ERG sometimes and I also use Saris H3. For me it only happens if you connect a trainer and leave it idle for some time before actually starting a training. The app registers power but erg does not work. I reconnect the trainer when that happens and erg starts working

I had to return the crankset. The problem metioned earlier about the cranks seizing up the bb was happening on 3 different bikes with 3 different bbs. ztto threaded pressfit and token ninja would seize up completely even without the preload ring installed. On shimano bb92 pressfit bb the crank was still moving but was very tight, definitely overloading the bearing.
I think it's either the axle that's too short or the actual material of the axle is too soft so when it's toruqed correctly, the driveside crankarm sits deeper on the splines that it should.

Anyone know if this frame is UDH compatible?
Their newest frame says it is and the dropout looks the same, although on their website it doesn't list UDH for this specific frameset.

It's not

I feel stupid asking about it but can anyone explain how to use the front derailleur?
Both front shifter buttons do exactly the same thing: they loop through four derailleur positions (small -> trim -> large -> trim -> small -> trim, etc.). Even if I alternate between buttons, I still end up running through this loop.
But how do I move back from the trim position? Let's say I'm in a big ring and I shifted to a larger sprocket on the cassette and I wanted to trim the derailleur. I press any button on the shifter and it trims but then if I shift to a harder gear on the cassette and I want to move the front derailleur to the most outbound position. I can't do it since no matter which button I press it shifts to a small ring from the trim position

My build is ready.
Built with ltwoo er9 groupset and wheels from Peter
Weight with pedals and bottle cages is 7.7kg which is not the lightest but considering the size and a very deep rims it's not too bad. I originally installed riro carbon cranks but the chainrings  turned out to be warped so I'm waiting for a replacement to arrive. With riro cranks the weight is getting close to 7.5kg

I installed these cranks today and I think I know the reason they were seizing up for some people. Its because of the flawed preload ring desing(the one on the non drive side). Its too wide so when I tried to preload the bearings with it, it was contacting the bb shell instead of the bearings effectively seizing up the crank.I've put a 0.5mm pastic spacer betweet the preload ring and the bb so that this spacer is pushing on the bearings when I adjust the preload. I use BB92 pressfit bb.